Travis L. Stevens
New member
For those that want to skip all the progress pictures, here are the Before and After Shots.
Before
After
Before
After
Reefing on a Budget: 75g Tank Build
- Thread starter Travis L. Stevens
- Start date
captbunzo
Premium Member
What's to stop you from filling it, letting it sit for a couple of days, and then toss some live rock in. The way I see it, the sooner you can start letting your water stew, the better, eh?
I mean, I think from what you say, the tank itself, and stand, etc, is done, right?
I mean, I think from what you say, the tank itself, and stand, etc, is done, right?
Travis L. Stevens
New member
Well, I HOPE it's done that is. I should be able to reach the back for all the plumbing without a problem. But I would hate to have to need to move it and then not be able to because it's filled. I at least want to wait until I get the refugium set up.
nIx_tank
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7900232#post7900232 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Travis L. Stevens
The woodworking is the product of nIx_tank truthfully. I just did the hard work of sanding it all. Ironically is later covered up by stain and sealant.
Well thanks for the props Travis, but it is all good. You did the hard work, the sanding and staining.
I am glad that this tank is working out for you, plus I really like the idea of reefing on a budget.
If this can inspire people into this obsession, I mean hobby, then all the better.
Looking good!
Travis L. Stevens
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7900364#post7900364 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nIx_tank
I am glad that this tank is working out for you, plus I really like the idea of reefing on a budget.
If this can inspire people into this obsession, I mean hobby, then all the better.
That's one of the goals of this thread. It's to show people that have only heard rumors that the hobby is "hard" or "expensive" just aren't true. I've seen many 10g tanks with a damselfish and soft corals, Normal Output Lighting, No Skimmer, No Heater, etc that looked far better than something like a 125g SPS/Clam tank, with a 6ft skimmer, calcium reactor, Metal Halides, Chiller, etc. But one thing that I seem to see often is the people with the simple, small tanks think it's too expensive to go larger. Well, now they have proof that a 75g is easily achievable in the $500 range instead of the estimated $2625-$3750* of the average 75g reef.
* Many polls have been posted here on RC and almost all of them show the bulk of tanks cost between $35-$50/gallon.
J4Life
Premium Member
Travis the tank is coming along nicely. What kind of sand is that again? Limestone? I want to upgrade to a 225 gallon in the next 3 years and I plan on doing the same thing you're with this 75 gallon. I think it can be done for a whole lot less than what everyone assumes.
Thanks again for posting in my 75 gallon, Let's see them thread and I plan to follow along with you in this as well.
Thanks again for posting in my 75 gallon, Let's see them thread and I plan to follow along with you in this as well.
Travis L. Stevens
New member
Sounds good. Here is a link to the Pulverized Limestone.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=889622
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=889622
Russ Braaten
New member
Travis,
It is amazing what a little trim will do.
I do have one fear. Your stand has no bracing for lateral movement. When you get the weight of the water on it it might collapse if nudged sideways.
IMPORTANT
There is an easy fix though. Cut a sheet of thin plywood and nail it on to the back. Especially along the uprights. Glue would be nice too. Then you can cut what ever hole you need in it for the plumbing and electrical.
Russ
It is amazing what a little trim will do.
I do have one fear. Your stand has no bracing for lateral movement. When you get the weight of the water on it it might collapse if nudged sideways.
IMPORTANT
There is an easy fix though. Cut a sheet of thin plywood and nail it on to the back. Especially along the uprights. Glue would be nice too. Then you can cut what ever hole you need in it for the plumbing and electrical.
Russ
Travis L. Stevens
New member
Good idea. I'm going to avoid adding plywood on the back. I want it to be as open as possible to help with heat transfer and air movement. I am thinking about adding stuts to it. It's something I've been tossing around for a while. I just don't want the struts to interfere with my plumbing options.
Russ Braaten
New member
You don't need up and down strength. You need twisting strength. If you want to keep it open, Use strips of plywood that are about 8 inches wide and nail and glue them ACROSS the back. Maybe one across the bottom and one across the middle or 3/4 the way up. That way you have plenty of air movement but you get the lateral strength.
If the top of the stand bows then you need to add one strut in the middle to make it firm but the lateral force is where you really need strength. A ray to help with both would be to place the approx. 8" brace across the top of the back. It would stiffen the top from warping plus fix the lateral weakness.
If the top of the stand bows then you need to add one strut in the middle to make it firm but the lateral force is where you really need strength. A ray to help with both would be to place the approx. 8" brace across the top of the back. It would stiffen the top from warping plus fix the lateral weakness.
Travis L. Stevens
New member
I guess I was slightly unclear. What I meant by a "strut" was an angled brace. I was thinking about possibly going from the middle of the edge of the stand and going down to the brace on both sides to form a "V" or maybe go a step further and add one from the center brace making a "W" or overlapping them and making an "X. Example:
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Russ Braaten
New member
That would work Travis.
nIx_tank
New member
Hey Travis, Russ's idea of having two slats could also work for you in regards of building some shelves that you were pondering.
Either one (Your idea and/or his) would work for you, and we can knock that out this weekend if you would like.
Shouldn't be too hard, and I think that I have some spare wood laying around that we can use.
We'll talk.
Either one (Your idea and/or his) would work for you, and we can knock that out this weekend if you would like.
Shouldn't be too hard, and I think that I have some spare wood laying around that we can use.
We'll talk.
Travis, can you please talk a little more about your refugium/sump. I am debating purchasing a Ocenaic Sump or building my own. It seems you started with an Oceanic, but then just rebuilt it basically, such that you could have started with an empty tank and then added baffles, yes? Why start with an Oceanic?
Travis L. Stevens
New member
Hi there Tobman. If you are wanting to purchase a sump and/or refugium, I wouldn't recommend buying a Oceanic Sump first. The only reason why I'm using one is because it was given to me a long time ago. It was free so I might as well make the best of it
It would be much easier to either buy a standard sized aquarium and adding the baffles or to ask something that can build one to a custom size for the perfect fit.
Travis L. Stevens
New member
Sort of. I'm in the process of obtaining a SeaClone skimmer to cut up and build a downdraft skimmer. Once that's built, all I have to do is put in baffles and plumb the tank and I'm ready to go. I have some rock curing in the tub now. I'm just now getting the wire for my ballast and I still need to find some endcaps and reflectors.
Travis L. Stevens
New member
So far, I really like the looks of it. It might not be white like Aragonite, but it's cheap and still Caclium Bicarbonate. It's dusty though.
