Reeflo Snapper.... Plumbing Help

[vdubfiend]

I want to replace my mag 7 return pump with a Reeflo Snapper external pump.

Looking for the best way to utilize the power of an external pump.

Basically I need….

Snapper for return..
Fuge feed (in sump)
Chiller feed (14’ of pipe one way to the chiller)
RX feed (in sump)

I just picked up a new 1/4hp chiller (just in time) that I will be plumbing into the system. I have an inwall tank and am going to place the chiller on my sideyard- 12’ from the sump. Plumbing through the floor (to and from) to the chiller. All plumbing will be insulated. The chiller will be on its own stand and have a small roof over it to protect it from the elements once located outside.


The REEFLO inlet is 2” and the outlet is 1.5”

What size pipe do I really need to the pump inlet? 2” ?

What about the return plumbing? 1.5”

I currently have a line t’d off the return to feed the fuge and one to feed my phos rx.


I guess I could go from the pump- chiller- back to sump and t off there ???


Looking for the best way to utilize the power of an external pump.


I have tons of plumbing experience but none really in regards to aquariums and external pumps.


Sorry for the long read but I APPRECIATE the help!!!!!

 

[BigJay]

I kept the inlet at 2" for my dart, mostly because I had a 2" bulkhead so that worked out fine. Someone told me that using a smaller inlet could cause cavitation.

I plumbed the outlet 1.5" to a manifold where the output was stepped down to where I needed it (1") on three different ball calves.

Be sure to have a union on both ends of the pump, so you can remove it easily for cleaning! I just cleaned mine last weekend, I can't imagine how much headache that saved me.

I hope this helps.

 

[vdubfiend]

yeah i just wondered because a 2" inlet must be a 6" bulkhead haha

1.5" out of the pump then a manifold that steps down as needed to chiller, reactor, return.

Thanks Jay

 

[woz9683]

Yeah, 2" bulkheads are hefty, mine's a Hayward, and I think it's outer dimension is 4 1/2" across the flats of the hex, so if you went point to point it would be closer to 5 1/2" or 6". I think the only leeway Reeflo gives to that 2" inlet is if you have a smaller bulkhead, like 1.5", it will work, but you're supposed to adapt up to 2" for a certain length run between the smaller bulkhead and the pump inlet. I can't remember what the length is, but I think it's at least a couple feet. Oh, and unions are nice, true union ball valves on either end would be nicer .

 

[vdubfiend]

From bulkhead to pump inlet would be 16" MAX- Most likely it will be less than 6" from bulkhead to inlet. Union ball valves on in and outlets. t off return to chiller, reactor, and sump.

All t'd outlets to receive ball valves for flow control.


TIA

 

[woz9683]

You should stick with a 2" bulkhead then.

 

[dean1977]

The pump will be pulling water from the side of a sump? if so i would go with a 2 inch bulkead. If it was pulling water from the bottom of a tank with head pressure then 1.5 would be fine.
Are you using a check valve on the return?
The other thing you might consider is the restrictions unions and union ballvalves have as far as interior diameter. I'm setting up a tank now and I think I'm going to size up all my unions and unionBvalves. Just by using some bushings on the ends.

 

[vdubfiend]

ttt

ttt

I can go either route... When I redo the plumbing for the new return I will most likely raise the sump at least 4-6" off the floor to help siphon detritus. So would 1.5" work if i drill the bottom and run a 1.5" bulkhead to a 90 and then 4" to a 2" union/ball valve then to the pump inlet?
tia

 

[woz9683]

I don't think that's a good idea. Even with a small amount of head pressure, you're talking about reducing the inlet area by over 40%, and then you're adding a 90 degree bend which restricts flow even more.

Also, only some ball valves and unions restrict the water channel. If you're buying good true union valves from spears or asahi or any of the other quality manufacturers the i.d. of the valve is going to match the i.d. of the pipe, or be very close to it. Just don't necessarily think you have to size up your plumbing for a valve, it's not necessary in all cases. Always check the specs for the valve you're actually going to use.

 

[dean1977]

With a 120 gallons a water pressure sitting on top of the bulkhead there is no way the pump will starve at all. It's been done and proven. If your fittings don't say that they are 100% flow then they aren't. It doesn't matter how much they cost, I have returned $100 dollar ball valves(bought online) because the internal diameter was tiny.

 

[woz9683]

With a 120 gallons a water pressure sitting on top of the bulkhead there is no way the pump will starve at all.

The volume of water is irrelevant, it's the height of the water column that determines the pressure. Plus, I'm pretty sure we're not talking about 120 gallon sump, even if that was relevant. Also, most people place bulkheads for external return pumps close to the bottom of their sump anyway, even if it's not on the bottom. So, the water pressure would be similar between the two locations. The pumps can cavitate due to starvation if they aren't given a large enough inlet pipe.

It doesn't matter how much they cost, I have returned $100 dollar ball valves(bought online) because the internal diameter was tiny.

I'm pretty sure I didn't say anything regarding the cost of the valve. I'm sure that I did say, no matter what you get, you should check the specs. Even if you buy online, you should be able to cross reference to a manufacturer's website to find specs, or the online vendor will tell you.

 

[dean1977]

Ya , I'm sorry for the confusion. I originally just meant that a 1.5 inch bulkead is fine for an input only if the bulkhead is in the bottom of a large tank. With the weight of the water column it's fine. This is good for a CL. For a sump return, definately go with 2 inches. Mike I was attacking your comments, just experimented with tons of unions.

 

[stang02]

you arent supposed to dimish the i/p to these pumps iaw manufactures warnings ... they can be ramped down after the o/p but putting a smaller bulkhead or valve before the i/p not good for the pump.

 

[woz9683]

Right, like I said, in general, not a good idea. But I have seen instances on the Reeflo forum where people who basically had no choice, due to previously installed bulkheads, were given alternate possibilities.

 

[vdubfiend]

I understand Dean- thanks!
I understand that you could get away with a smaller inlet if say you were not running the pump to its maximum capacity...

I will use the recommended size piping since I will be emptying and raising the sump anyway.

So after I plumb out of the Snapper- thru the true union I can then step it down to say 1" ? T off the return to a "manifold" where I will tap feeds for my chiller, fuge, etc.

 

[woz9683]

The body of the manifold should still be 1.5". Each line coming off the manifold could be 1". If you drop down to 1" before splitting your lines you're going to decrease pump output.

 

[vdubfiend]

ok 1.5" manifold with reducers and ball valves as needed (to chiller,fuge,etc)

THANK YOU