Reeflux

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14637479#post14637479 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ReefEnabler
old_bulb.jpg


the bit on the top of the arc tube. apparently the is only there because its an artifact of the manufacturing process.

Not according to CoralVue/Reeflux:
It is important that SE mogul base lamps are positioned in the correct burn position. Please refer to the drawing and notice the small glass nipple in the center arc tube of the lamp. It is critical, for the correct color temperature to be obtained, that this nipple be positioned in the 12pm location when screwed into the E40 mogul socket. To help align this position you may have to pull the center tab in the mogul socket out to gain some length where the lamps base makes contact with the center metal tab. Make sure that once positioned in the correct angle that the bulb is snug and stable in the socket.

clip_image003.gif


Personally, I've found the nipple orientation pretty drastically changes the color. I put mine in the "up" position as recommended since the bulbs produce enough PAR for me.
 
I didn't mean to say that it can't affect color temp, I already said I think it could in my last post.


But I did read somewhere else that the nipple is a manufacturing thing from where they inject the gases into the tube and thats true for all metal halide bulbs. So its not like they are putting the nipple there to align the color or something, its just a result of manufacturing and placing it 12 o'clock keeps the nipple warm from the rising heat (after all the nipple has much more surface area outside the bulb to act as a heatsink compared to other spots on the bulb, and more glass there too, no wonder its a "cold" spot).


either way IMO with a good reflector color wouldn't change either way, but a bulb with the nipple facing down will buildup soot inside much faster and likely change color much faster.
 
Just found this thread. I bought 2x 250w SE 10k reeflux about 3 months ago. They were both blue white initially, pretty nice. Over the past few weeks one went pinkish and stayed there. The other went very blue and now is not working and I believe burned out.

I am using 250w icecap ballasts (newer version). Swapping ballasts has no impact on the bulb color (or getting the dead one to work now).

I should note I had the nipple oriented upwards on both though one was slightly off 12 o'clock.
 
i hate to flame any company here but these bulbs are ridiculous.pointing the nipple up/down to try and convince you they are not defective and inconsistence in color.i ran 3 of them on a 180 with all three being a different color on coral vue ballasts.i thought the ballasts were the problem after talking to the vendor.i was told to get a killawatt meter to make sure the ballasts were all driving them at the same wattage.when i opened my hood and looked at the bulbs i could see the difference in color,one pinkish,one white and one as blue as a 20k.i switched the bulbs around in the reflectors and they fired the same.oddly enough though,at times they would fire a nice color but it was rare to have all 3 fire the same color.i am a bit picky and cannot stand the lack of symetry on my tank so i switched to xm20 k which i fired on the coral vue ballast also.these bulbs i have had good results with on other ballasts but on the coral vues i only got about 4 months of use before they lost there nice color.i now use radium 20k on aro ballasts and they all fire the same color every day which is refreshing after the reeflux ride i was on.funny thing is i used radiums prior to the reeflux bulbs and was convinced that it would be an upgrade to switch.i found the hard way it was a downgrade for me.also with the reeflux bulbs my blues looked very blue and un-natural and the other colors did not look correct.like the pinks and reds and greens were not the way they were intended to appear IMO.for all of you that think you are crazy in thinking they fire at different colors on different days,you are not.they do.
 
Ok these things really *!*#*#.The bulbs are really white with hardly any blue at all.Guess i can try another set or change to a different manufacturer, any suggestions that would look nice on coralvue ballasts.
 
I am also curious as I was going to switch out my 12K for 20K. I have had no problems with the 250W DE 12K bulbs on the electronic adjustable ballasts but you guys are making me nervous.:eek:
 
I don't know about par but the color is nearly identical after the break in period. If I was to go back and do it again, I'd stick with the 12k's they are proven.
 
i got 12,000K DE 250 watt now thats 2 set ( the first set i bought was 10,000K but it turned out it was 12,000K as i saw it when i replaced it error on my LFS guys part) well since i was under the impression i was runing 10,000k i wanted more blue cuz some frags are not showing blue/violet as they should IMO well i have the same bulb and colors were bluer just at the begining now seem to be more whiter the bluer im gonna try 14,000K or 20,000K bulb when im gonna replace this one
 
Yea reeflux only comes in 10 12 or 20k"s.Might have to give the 20s a try next, if someone is running the 20s can you please post a pic.Thanks
 
So whats the consenses is it the bulbs or the ballast that are inconsistant?? I own both reeflux bulbs and ballast and have the same issues discussed. Thinking of going to radium the coralvue ballast? One more thing is the a correct nipple orienatation for a radium 400 20K..
 
Here's my most resent correspondence with the owner of Reeflux:

> From: sales@coralvue.com
> To: thechad21@msn.com
> Subject: FW: CONTACT MESSAGE FROM ANGELGLITTER.COM
> Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2009 17:04:05 -0500
>
> This is from a customer that has been experiencing a similar issue, but it
> is not just with our ballast or bulbs. We believe this is an issue now with
> electrical supply companies and how they are regulating power distribution.
> Depending on where you live your electrical company may not be able to keep
> up with the demand thus lowering the voltage and sine wave of electricity
> into homes. We are still trying to figure this out. I have offered you
> options to exchange the lamps for new ones, your last reply was that you
> liked the color of lamps and you were going to think about it, yet you
> continue to bash me and my company on Reef Central.
>
> Good luck.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Coralvue Customer Service [mailto:support@coralvue.com]
> Sent: Monday, March 23, 2009 12:01 PM
> To: sales@coralvue.com
> Subject: FW: CONTACT MESSAGE FROM ANGELGLITTER.COM
>
>
>
> Brandi
> Account Rep
> Vue Technology
> (985)781-9078
>
> "Coralvue Lighting and Octopus Aquarium Products"
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: vbolton1@cinci.rr.com [mailto:vbolton1@cinci.rr.com]
> Sent: Monday, March 23, 2009 1:40 AM
> To: support@coralvue.com
> Subject: CONTACT MESSAGE FROM ANGELGLITTER.COM
>
> Below is the result of your feedback form. It was submitted by
> (vbolton1@cinci.rr.com) on Monday, March 23, 2009 at 02:40:13
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Name: Duane Johnson
>
> Phone Number: 513-407-5841
>
> Source: Word of Mouth
>
> Message: Hello,
> I have a very weird phenomenon going on with my lighting.
> I can literally watch the bulbs go from a nice white blue ( 2 x 250 watt 14K
> pheonix currently, but I have tried Ushio 20k, Coral vue 20k, eBay 20k
> bulbs, AND Hamilton 14k bulbs and they all do the same.) to a crappy 10k
> tellow, and then back after a period of time. It does it SEVERAL times per
> day every day no matter what time of day. There are no extra loads on the
> circiuts. Nothing has been added and the voltage never drops below 10%
> nominal. It fluctuates constantly from 116 - 120-120.5v ( measured voltage
> at the outlet.). I have tried M80 magnet ballasts, ARO electronic ballasts,
> and now I have a brand spanking new Coral vue 2x250 watt none dimmable
> electronic ballast.
> I have replaced, and have done everything conceavable aside from replacing
> the DE sockets and brackets. They seem to be fine though. I adjusted them
> just last night in fact just to see if that was the problem. It was not.
> I have even installed two new 20 amp breakers specifically for both of my
> aquariums lighting only and still it does the same damn thing. I checked for
> loose grounds, loose comons, as well as wireing at the box inside and out
> side. All is well there.
> I am at witts end as to what is going on here. Infact my coralvue 6 x 54
> watt 48" t5 fixture does the same thing.
> I have even went so far as to leave a volt meter hooked in to the wall
> socket with the halides on, unplugged the refridgerator opened the door to
> it to warm it a litte so it would come on when plugged back in, then plugged
> it back in to see if that draw was the problem. NOPE.
> The furnace is gas operated, the dryer is gas operated, absolutely nothing
> seems to be malfuntioning as far as house hold appliances that randomly com
> eon , or that are currentl plugge din that we turn on.
> I checked aquarium heaters, power heads, return pumps.. nothing is ou tof
> the norm.
>
> Ihave the meter plugged upnd I am watching the voltage. It has changed to a
> steady 120v just now and th elights have gone ice blue lie they are supopsed
> to.
> at 120.5vthey go a little white yellow, at 119 they go 10k yellow. The
> coral vue ballast says it will operate on 90 - 260 input voltage. As did
> the ARO and the ohers. Whats really messe dup is that until last summer it
> NEVER did this before. Not once.
> Then I replaced my Ushio bulbs with another new set of Ushio 20's and it
> starteed doing it. Then I tried the differen tballasts and bulbs since
> trying to get it sorted out.
> Are DE bulbs and electronic ballasts really that finicky about the tiny
> voltage changes like that or do you think it is simply bad sockets ?
> OH yes.. I also recently purchased a Tripp Lite line conditioner that
> buffers in commin gvoltage from 84-125 volts to a computer grade nominal
> 120V. didnt do a thing.
>
> Please give me your professional opinion or at least tell me you have heard
> of this sort of thing before and I am not loosing my mind ! LOL!
>
> THANK YOU !
> Duane
>
> Submit: Contact Us
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>


My reply:

I said I didn't care what color they were as long as they all burned the same. You offered to sell me new bulbs at a slight discount. I've decided to deal with it until the six month mark and buy new bulbs from another manufacturer. BTW, my tank is in my office. Our 10,000 square foot building was built two years ago. We have our own electrical room with our own transformer. We have a total of 14 metal halides in our warehouse on two seperate circuits. I've never had a "voltage" issue with any of my warehouse lights. The lights on my tank are on their own circuit.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14673978#post14673978 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tony varrell
So whats the consenses is it the bulbs or the ballast that are inconsistant?? I own both reeflux bulbs and ballast and have the same issues discussed. Thinking of going to radium the coralvue ballast? One more thing is the a correct nipple orienatation for a radium 400 20K..

i would not worry about the nipple orientation if you go to radium.they look good anyway you put them and i never heard anything about the nipple orientation in the 20 years i have been keeping corals until people started having issues with these coral vue bulbs.i also had problems with the coralvue ballasts when i tried to use them with the xm bulbs.mine shortened the bulb life by roughly half with the xm 20 k .i was told by a highly respected author before i switched to coral vue that they were poorly made and very inconsistent but i did not listen.he was right on by the way.
 
So it looks like the answer is part ballast issue and part bulb issue.So if i run a different bulb on these coralvue ballasts im lookin for trouble (shortened bulb life).Ugg when i bought this setup thought i was gettin high end stuff, learn somethin new everyday. :(
 
I've had no problems with my set-up for a year now.
I also did a google search to find out if there were c/o problems with ReefLux bulbs on other forums or in other countries. I expected to find the same complaints all over if this is truly a manufacturing problem. I couldn't find any complaints except one from a forum in England. After investigating, he found out it was a ballast problem. He is still using ReefLux 10K bulbs and very happy.
The only other websites that had complaints were ones that talked about those on RC complaining. I even found a posted response from Coral Vue (via a member) that discussed the complaints on RC on Ottawa Valley Aquarium Society's website.

I'm not saying that some people aren't having problems as it is obvious that they are. What I am saying is to give the benefit of the doubt to both parties. Perhaps the truth is found in working together.:cool:
 
I just received a very thoughtful and considerate email from Dave at Coralvue. Seems there was a bit of miscommunication. He's going to help me get to the bottom of this.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14678893#post14678893 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by thechad21
I just received a very thoughtful and considerate email from Dave at Coralvue. Seems there was a bit of miscommunication. He's going to help me get to the bottom of this.

Let us Know how you make out I am interested in knowing what was going on.
 
I officially take back everything negative I've said about Reeflux. David is taking charge of the situation. He's sending out a new set of 20k bulbs to try. I'm going to send the old bulbs in for testing. He says the only customers that've had this issue are in California (including me). He's going to get a frequency converter to do some testing with. He says he's going to change the frequency on the electrical output to the ballast to see if it has an effect on the color temperature of the lamps. I'll keep you guys posted. Probably on another thread. This one got pretty ugly.
 
Back
Top