REEFSAFE's 345 Gallon A.G.E. in wall
- Thread starter reefsafe
- Start date
Robb in Austin
New member
Looking great!
Padrino
New member
Update:
My easy water change system. I pump 135 gallons of new water into display, open valve, 135 gallons of water drains out
Have you tried this system yet? I'm curious to know if it works well at fully open. I would be worried about the p-trap not handling the flow. How come you installed one? They are always great to be able to clean out but if that line is only fresh mixed water, I'm not sure you need it. Just my thoughts.
Nice work on the gas struts, I'm sure you are happy you installed those already.
Thanks
Rob
redneckgearhead
Active member
Have you tried this system yet? I'm curious to know if it works well at fully open. I would be worried about the p-trap not handling the flow. How come you installed one? They are always great to be able to clean out but if that line is only fresh mixed water, I'm not sure you need it. Just my thoughts.
Nice work on the gas struts, I'm sure you are happy you installed those already.
Thanks
Rob
As long as its vented (that is a vent I see correct?) the pipe should be able to handle full flow. And I know most codes state you must have a p trap on any drain connected to the sewer. (again I'm assuming that's where the drain goes) P traps are not there so you can clean out the line (that's what the rubber cap on the end of the pipe is for), they are there to hold water, the water acts as a barrier to keep the harmful noxious fumes from the sewer from coming in your house.
that is a vent you are seeing. I set it up this way to make water changes easier. I open the drain and dump 135 gallons of new water into display and 135 gallons drains out. I know there will be some inefficiency as I will lose some good water too but it is worth it for the ease.
Hexagon Mop
New member
How do you know when you have drained 135g?
Padrino
New member
Now that I think about it, that is really well thought out! This design does not force you to change 135gal but could be reduced to any volume. Its actually brilliant! You can continuously add water and it would automatically remove some to balance the volume.
I personally lean towards small changes as 135 gallons in a 345 is more than 1/3 the volume. I would think this would be a decent shock to the system and may cause possible cycles in the tank as your potentially replacing too much bacteria at once. I would be more inclined to add like 5 gallons a day (or 3 gal per day) so that you are constantly changing the water but on a slower scale, a dosing pump would be very ideal for this application as it would be programmed to slowly increase water over the course of the day.
My only question is what are you doing for an ATO system? If you ever had a failure, you could potentially slowly reduce the salinity without knowing as it self drains. Unless you plan on metering the RO/DI water added daily from evaporation via a litermeter or other dosing device.
I personally lean towards small changes as 135 gallons in a 345 is more than 1/3 the volume. I would think this would be a decent shock to the system and may cause possible cycles in the tank as your potentially replacing too much bacteria at once. I would be more inclined to add like 5 gallons a day (or 3 gal per day) so that you are constantly changing the water but on a slower scale, a dosing pump would be very ideal for this application as it would be programmed to slowly increase water over the course of the day.
My only question is what are you doing for an ATO system? If you ever had a failure, you could potentially slowly reduce the salinity without knowing as it self drains. Unless you plan on metering the RO/DI water added daily from evaporation via a litermeter or other dosing device.
Thanks. Correct. Any amount will do. I have a 135 gallon drum but you are right I probably will not do 135. This drain system will be valved close unless I am doing a water change so it won't be continuously doing water changes. Gonna use an elos osmocontroller on a float valve for top off. I have a 35 gallon reservoir for top off.
I may try to play with water temperatures of the new water to minimize the loss of new water. (one degree or so)
Cold Water sinks below cold water for a number of reasons. One reason is because when water heats up and nears evaporation the molecules move faster and faster and the density decreases. Another reason is because the more this process continues the faster the convectioon current. A convection current is when the water heats at the bottom, and cools at the top. When this happens the water forms a circular current and the water is pushed along which speeds the process of warm water rising
I may try to play with water temperatures of the new water to minimize the loss of new water. (one degree or so)
Cold Water sinks below cold water for a number of reasons. One reason is because when water heats up and nears evaporation the molecules move faster and faster and the density decreases. Another reason is because the more this process continues the faster the convectioon current. A convection current is when the water heats at the bottom, and cools at the top. When this happens the water forms a circular current and the water is pushed along which speeds the process of warm water rising
Padrino
New member
This could be done easily enough by purchasing a roll of airline tubing (good stuff- automation quality - SMC or FESTO 1/4" polyethylene or is it polyurethane) get like 25 or 50 ft. stick the roll in the water change tank. Then you can run a small pump like a mag 3 or similar to pump water from your sump through the line as its coiled into the WC chamber and then back into the sump. This will help keep the water in that WC tank the same temp as the main system. If you could get 1/4" titanium coil, then it would be much more efficient as titanium has a much higher thermal conductivity than a plastic polyurethane tubing, None the less it will work. Depending on what your using for a controller, you could even install another temp probe in the WC chamber and when that temp deviates from the sump temp, turn on the small pump. It would cut down on a piece of equipment running for no reason when both temps match,
Hope that helps
Rob
Hope that helps
Rob
