Reefsi 240 gallon In-Wall Build
- Thread starter Reefsi
- Start date
Reefsi
New member
Well the tank was supposed to be full sunday and it took until tonight to get all the water made! Its finally running in full gear minus the GFO reactor and Calcium reactor.
Whats your thoughts on running GFO off the start?
Heres some pics!
Thought this was a cool idea of mine, so I put plasti-dip on the back and cut a line and pulled back the areas were the rock are so I can see whats going on in the back!
Sump! Not to ATO yet only because I'm still 10 gallons short! lol
Whats your thoughts on running GFO off the start?
Heres some pics!
Thought this was a cool idea of mine, so I put plasti-dip on the back and cut a line and pulled back the areas were the rock are so I can see whats going on in the back!
Sump! Not to ATO yet only because I'm still 10 gallons short! lol
Reefsi
New member
@Mike810: Thanks! bud, Yeah its really just the furnace/storage room that ended up turning into a fish room 
Hopefully Ill be able to get the rest of the stuff out of there to set up QT and frag tanks. Hopefully SOON
@Jamroz37: There is a great place in Lafayette, off of 65, exit 172. Most of the time I just bum around to The ark(Merrillville), Pet Haven(Valpo), The Corral Reef(Valpo), I used to go to Exotic Aquatics(Highland) back in the day but they went WAY downhill, all my SPS frags are mainly picked up online mainly because of the selection. I would love to meet people around here for frags but haven't researched it much.
Hopefully Ill be able to get the rest of the stuff out of there to set up QT and frag tanks. Hopefully SOON@Jamroz37: There is a great place in Lafayette, off of 65, exit 172. Most of the time I just bum around to The ark(Merrillville), Pet Haven(Valpo), The Corral Reef(Valpo), I used to go to Exotic Aquatics(Highland) back in the day but they went WAY downhill, all my SPS frags are mainly picked up online mainly because of the selection. I would love to meet people around here for frags but haven't researched it much.
Reefsi
New member
Hanna checker is like 40 bucks and the Milwaukee is like 70.
For those who think this is interesting, Both PH probes are lab grade from neptune systems. Both calibrated the same time and rechecked in the solution. This is the readings I get in my tank, both probes are in the same section of the sump. Something is definetly wrong, I even recalibrated them and still getting weird readings.
For those who think this is interesting, Both PH probes are lab grade from neptune systems. Both calibrated the same time and rechecked in the solution. This is the readings I get in my tank, both probes are in the same section of the sump. Something is definetly wrong, I even recalibrated them and still getting weird readings.
King Jason
Reefer
Hanna checker is like 40 bucks and the Milwaukee is like 70.
For those who think this is interesting, Both PH probes are lab grade from neptune systems. Both calibrated the same time and rechecked in the solution. This is the readings I get in my tank, both probes are in the same section of the sump. Something is definetly wrong, I even recalibrated them and still getting weird readings.
Mine was off too. I bought a handheld unit to get a second reading. My ph only changes .03 between day and night max so I just live with it being off. A little annoying though given how much these things cost.
Last edited:
jamroz37
New member
I'm sure you may know this but i looked it up and i know your running a calcium reactor it says to not use the packets they give you use different ones heres the paragraph found it on neptunes forum. hope this helps some.
pH Probes
Require calibration and the probes themselves do NOT come with calibration fluid (however when you purchase the full Apex System, we include a packet of 7.0 and 10.0). Get the single use packets from your LFS, or online at our store. Should cost no more than $2/packet. You need two packets to calibrate - a 7.0 and a 10.0 if you plan to use the probe for the tank pH monitoring. If you plan on using it for control of a calcium reactor, you will want to calibrate with 4.0 and 7.0.
Remove the protective plastic cap and save in case you need to store your probe. The solution inside is a pH 4.0 solution that preserves the probe tip.
Read the PM1 documentation for specific calibration instructions: http://www.neptunesystems.com/support/docs/
ORP Probes
Do not require calibration from the factory. If you do decide to calibrate you cannot use the 400mv calibration solution that some ORP probes use. You need pH 4.0 and 7.0 calibration fluid along with Quinhydrone. Refer to the PM1 manual for further info about mixing the solutions and performing the calibration
Remove the protective plastic cap and save in case you need to store your probe.
An ORP probe can take up to 1 week to stabilize in your tank. As long as the reading is constantly rising by 1 mv - 3mv / hour than the probe is not ready yet. Once it starts rising and falling OPPOSITE your pH, then it's ready for use.
There is NO right ORP value. Every tank is different. Readings from 350mv - 450mv are typical. More important is to figure where your normal values are then watch for large deviations that would indicate a problem.
pH Probes
Require calibration and the probes themselves do NOT come with calibration fluid (however when you purchase the full Apex System, we include a packet of 7.0 and 10.0). Get the single use packets from your LFS, or online at our store. Should cost no more than $2/packet. You need two packets to calibrate - a 7.0 and a 10.0 if you plan to use the probe for the tank pH monitoring. If you plan on using it for control of a calcium reactor, you will want to calibrate with 4.0 and 7.0.
Remove the protective plastic cap and save in case you need to store your probe. The solution inside is a pH 4.0 solution that preserves the probe tip.
Read the PM1 documentation for specific calibration instructions: http://www.neptunesystems.com/support/docs/
ORP Probes
Do not require calibration from the factory. If you do decide to calibrate you cannot use the 400mv calibration solution that some ORP probes use. You need pH 4.0 and 7.0 calibration fluid along with Quinhydrone. Refer to the PM1 manual for further info about mixing the solutions and performing the calibration
Remove the protective plastic cap and save in case you need to store your probe.
An ORP probe can take up to 1 week to stabilize in your tank. As long as the reading is constantly rising by 1 mv - 3mv / hour than the probe is not ready yet. Once it starts rising and falling OPPOSITE your pH, then it's ready for use.
There is NO right ORP value. Every tank is different. Readings from 350mv - 450mv are typical. More important is to figure where your normal values are then watch for large deviations that would indicate a problem.
bmanzie
New member
I would like to ask you how you cut the walls 2x4 without damaging the wall? I need to do the same to my in wall upgrade.
Thanks
Thanks
So this was day 2 of the build!
Ceiling up for hanging lights, and vapor barrier back up!
Added the table and backwall for support of Reactors and Neptune system, plus makes it an easier workspace.
Had a little extra time that night and decided to get my RODI hooked up as well.
Ready for the tank to come, LETS BRING IT!
End of day 2!
bmanzie
New member
Sorry it was this set of pictures I was looking at.
So this whole time I was using tapatalk, due to the ease of posting pictures, and realized that the online community cannot view them. So I will now properly post the pictures so everyone can view, sorry for that.
This wall all night one! Which was the 12th
So this is the wall the tank will be placed on!
This is the backside of the wall. Nothing really to see just thought I'd post it.
Drywall removed!
Studs removed!
Backside with header in place!
Stand framed out! Finally taking shape!
Stabila dont lie! Dead Nuts!
Done for the night! Was a long one!
End of Day 1!
Reefsi
New member
@KingJason: That is mainly my point I don't understand paying 130 bucks and getting 2 different readings, they are reading the solution correctly so its odd to me.
Dave M: Ya these are neptune probes which I have read are reliable, especially the lab grade are supposed to hold the calibration longer.
Jamroz: Thanks for the tip man, never realized that just put the solution on order, one probe will be used in the calcium reactor, for now there just both in my tank, testing accuracy.
Bmanzie: That's the bonus of having been a carpenter since 10! haha
1. Trace out the tank dimensions on the wall using a level. Make rough opening about 1 inch bigger all around. DON'T forget to take the small things in account like that 3/4" plywood for the top of the stand or if the tank is sitting on some type of foam. You don't want the rough opening larger than an inch of the actual tank because you need something to attach the trim to.
2. I tape it off using painters tape, you don't have to, it helps you visualize were the tank is though. Now your going to cut the drywall with either a razor or I used FEIN multitool, you can get cheap multitools at a hardware store for under 100 bucks. But a razor will suffice.
3. Make sure you cut all the way through the drywall, if not you will end up taking some drywall you didn't mean to take.
4. Go on the other side and start tapping and pushing out along each stud the drywall is attached to, take your time with this part because the drywall should be glued. By tapping with a hammer or pushing you should pop the bond of the glue. Make sure your pushing by a stud, if not you'll punch a hole through the wall.
5. Work it slowly until it seems like you can pop it off and it should come right off. leaving you with a perfect hole in the wall.
I am not the best at wording explanations so I hope that works, just make sure your patient when popping the glue bond because if you not it will come off in chunks vs. one nice piece. Chunks of drywall is a mess trust me lol
Thanks for all the responses!
Dave M: Ya these are neptune probes which I have read are reliable, especially the lab grade are supposed to hold the calibration longer.
Jamroz: Thanks for the tip man, never realized that just put the solution on order, one probe will be used in the calcium reactor, for now there just both in my tank, testing accuracy.
Bmanzie: That's the bonus of having been a carpenter since 10! haha
1. Trace out the tank dimensions on the wall using a level. Make rough opening about 1 inch bigger all around. DON'T forget to take the small things in account like that 3/4" plywood for the top of the stand or if the tank is sitting on some type of foam. You don't want the rough opening larger than an inch of the actual tank because you need something to attach the trim to.
2. I tape it off using painters tape, you don't have to, it helps you visualize were the tank is though. Now your going to cut the drywall with either a razor or I used FEIN multitool, you can get cheap multitools at a hardware store for under 100 bucks. But a razor will suffice.
3. Make sure you cut all the way through the drywall, if not you will end up taking some drywall you didn't mean to take.
4. Go on the other side and start tapping and pushing out along each stud the drywall is attached to, take your time with this part because the drywall should be glued. By tapping with a hammer or pushing you should pop the bond of the glue. Make sure your pushing by a stud, if not you'll punch a hole through the wall.
5. Work it slowly until it seems like you can pop it off and it should come right off. leaving you with a perfect hole in the wall.
I am not the best at wording explanations so I hope that works, just make sure your patient when popping the glue bond because if you not it will come off in chunks vs. one nice piece. Chunks of drywall is a mess trust me lol
Thanks for all the responses!
