derick2724
In Memoriam
well hurry up and get up yo lazy a$$ man 
and finish your AWESOME project man, we can't wait to see how it turns out...
and finish your AWESOME project man, we can't wait to see how it turns out...
ReefWaters' 220 Sun Room Reef
- Thread starter ReefWaters
- Start date
ReefWaters
Premium Member
I spent some time in on the tank this weekend and last night. Not much to update about. I took a few pictures but they really don't show anything, and I don't really have time to post them, so live with it. :lol:
I'm still trying to get the rubber base molding to stick well. That was a bad idea. I highly suggest never messing with that stuff unless you know some secret that I don't. But its really too late now. I just have to live with it.
I figured out how to level the stand for that the fuge, prop tank and secondary sump sits on. I just purchased some corner cabinet braces from Home Depot and screwed them on the bottoms of the legs. I'll post some pics of that later. This way I can just shim up each leg with some pieces of sheet metal. The purpose of the corner brace piece is to even out the load on the angle iron legs and also make it where you really wont see the shims. Should work pretty well.
I also need to decide if I'm going to level the main sump and the water change sump under the display. The floor is tile, and it slants lightly towards the center of the room. The floor is out of level by about 1/4 of an inch every 18 inches or so. Pretty significant I think. I'm just don't know how I would go about leveling the tanks. They are standard All-Glass aquariums with the black frames. Would I have to shim them along the entire length of the tanks or just at the corners? I may just leave it alone. It wont be terribly noticeable unless your looking for it. Not sure what to do here. Any suggestions?
I'm also trying to make some fish or cut bait decisions on the plumbing. I think I'm going with my original plan to feed the skimmer with a pump from the secondary sump. I'm just think this will make it easier to get an accurate and consistent flow through on the skimmer. The only draw back is that this gets me to 3 external pumps instead of two. And I know, many of you feel I should feed the skimmer directly from the display to get it to work efficiently. Lets just agree to disagree on that point. :smokin:
I think I'm going to use my existing 20 gallon long sump as the secondary sump. Its already set up 90% like I would like it. Plus I'm running out of money :rolleye1: and I don't see the point in taking the time to build something I already have.
The other big project I have to get started on is the light rack. I've decided I'm going to hang some barn door rails from the ceiling and have the light rack slide completely away from the tank (off to the side). This will give me more room than one hobbyist could hope for to access the tank. In addition, the light from the ceiling fan will be more than enough to work with while the light rack is slid away. I can use a sturdy step ladder and access every inch of the tank from the back side. I'm excited about this.
Okay, I think I've babbled enough. I need to get back to work so I can pay for this monster.
Let me know what you think.....
:lol:I'm still trying to get the rubber base molding to stick well. That was a bad idea. I highly suggest never messing with that stuff unless you know some secret that I don't. But its really too late now. I just have to live with it.
I figured out how to level the stand for that the fuge, prop tank and secondary sump sits on. I just purchased some corner cabinet braces from Home Depot and screwed them on the bottoms of the legs. I'll post some pics of that later. This way I can just shim up each leg with some pieces of sheet metal. The purpose of the corner brace piece is to even out the load on the angle iron legs and also make it where you really wont see the shims. Should work pretty well.
I also need to decide if I'm going to level the main sump and the water change sump under the display. The floor is tile, and it slants lightly towards the center of the room. The floor is out of level by about 1/4 of an inch every 18 inches or so. Pretty significant I think. I'm just don't know how I would go about leveling the tanks. They are standard All-Glass aquariums with the black frames. Would I have to shim them along the entire length of the tanks or just at the corners? I may just leave it alone. It wont be terribly noticeable unless your looking for it. Not sure what to do here. Any suggestions?
I'm also trying to make some fish or cut bait decisions on the plumbing. I think I'm going with my original plan to feed the skimmer with a pump from the secondary sump. I'm just think this will make it easier to get an accurate and consistent flow through on the skimmer. The only draw back is that this gets me to 3 external pumps instead of two. And I know, many of you feel I should feed the skimmer directly from the display to get it to work efficiently. Lets just agree to disagree on that point. :smokin:
I think I'm going to use my existing 20 gallon long sump as the secondary sump. Its already set up 90% like I would like it. Plus I'm running out of money :rolleye1: and I don't see the point in taking the time to build something I already have.
The other big project I have to get started on is the light rack. I've decided I'm going to hang some barn door rails from the ceiling and have the light rack slide completely away from the tank (off to the side). This will give me more room than one hobbyist could hope for to access the tank. In addition, the light from the ceiling fan will be more than enough to work with while the light rack is slid away. I can use a sturdy step ladder and access every inch of the tank from the back side. I'm excited about this.
Okay, I think I've babbled enough. I need to get back to work so I can pay for this monster.
Let me know what you think.....
It takes a bit of practice. I laid quite a bit of it when needed back when I worked construction and I would only call myself adequate. The guys that do it all the time, typically the carpet/flooring guys can lay hundreds of feet a night and it looks great. When you are going around outside corners you need to cut a notch perdendicular to the length on the inside. It's easiest to just cut and stop at an inside corner cutting out the little curve in the bottom on one side to make it fit if that makes sense.
melev
Well-known member
<b>I also need to decide if I'm going to level the main sump and the water change sump under the display. The floor is tile, and it slants lightly towards the center of the room. The floor is out of level by about 1/4 of an inch every 18 inches or so. Pretty significant I think. I'm just don't know how I would go about leveling the tanks. They are standard All-Glass aquariums with the black frames. Would I have to shim them along the entire length of the tanks or just at the corners? I may just leave it alone. It wont be terribly noticeable unless your looking for it. Not sure what to do here. Any suggestions?</b>
You will want to shim the entire cabinet so that all of it is evenly supported.
Using a chisel and hammer, cut off what still shows, then using that excess piece, use it to tap the shim under the stand about 1/8" so it is out of sight.
You will want to shim the entire cabinet so that all of it is evenly supported.
Using a chisel and hammer, cut off what still shows, then using that excess piece, use it to tap the shim under the stand about 1/8" so it is out of sight.
2nd what Melev suggests. Its really important to keep the stand level on the same plane. Any warping of the stand so that the corners of the tank are not all in the same plane will cause the bottom pane of glass to crack when water is added. Make sure you get the stand level front to back, side to side, every single way you can measure it!
Again, I can't wait to see this system up and running
Again, I can't wait to see this system up and running
ReefWaters
Premium Member
See, this is why I should have posted pictures... :lol: You guys are so confused..... :rollface:
The display tank is perfectly level. The sumps that Im talking about being out of level are sitting on the bare floor underneath the display tank. They dont touch the stand at all.
See.
Do you still think I should level the sumps? Again, Im worried about putting too much point pressure on them if I shim the corners and dont get even pressure all around the frame. Or do you think it matters with 50 and 55 gallons? One solution would be to cut a piece of plywood or starboard to put under both of the tanks but I really diddnt want to do that.
Here is a picture of the level. Not sure if you can see the bubble or not.
The display tank is perfectly level. The sumps that Im talking about being out of level are sitting on the bare floor underneath the display tank. They dont touch the stand at all.
See.
Do you still think I should level the sumps? Again, Im worried about putting too much point pressure on them if I shim the corners and dont get even pressure all around the frame. Or do you think it matters with 50 and 55 gallons? One solution would be to cut a piece of plywood or starboard to put under both of the tanks but I really diddnt want to do that.
Here is a picture of the level. Not sure if you can see the bubble or not.
ReefWaters
Premium Member
I thought about the foam. But I thought I read where you shouldnt put foam under a framed tank (standard tank black frames) because it could potentially put point pressure on the bottom. But that really doesnt seem right does it? Also, the foam really doesnt fix the level problem, or did I miss something? I could shave the foam on one side and wedge it on the other to get it level. I still just wonder if its worth it.
Maybe the next step is to put some water in each of the tanks and see how bad the "water line" looks to me.
Lunchbucket
Premium Member
Leave it to Marc for the great ideas.
Is it me or does he throw the foam word out there more than anyone on RC??
Lunchbucket
Is it me or does he throw the foam word out there more than anyone on RC??
Lunchbucket
melev
Well-known member
You could press the tank into the foam to get an impression, then cut away what is necessary to support everything evenly.
Those tanks are small enough that being slightly angled on the floor doesn't matter. You could shim under the foam though if you needed it to be perfectly flat.
And again, you're insulating the tank from the cold floor.
polywise
OLD SCHOOL-ish
ReefWaters,
They are going to be used for sumps right? - you are not going to be filling them up to the top right? -- I wouldn't worry about not being perfectly level. Your level is not really too far out. Did you put the level on the floor to check if it is level ?, as compared to the frame of the tank possibly not being perfectly assembled to the tank? The insulation is a good idea if the tanks are going to stay on the floor
They are going to be used for sumps right? - you are not going to be filling them up to the top right? -- I wouldn't worry about not being perfectly level. Your level is not really too far out. Did you put the level on the floor to check if it is level ?, as compared to the frame of the tank possibly not being perfectly assembled to the tank? The insulation is a good idea if the tanks are going to stay on the floor
ReefWaters
Premium Member
Yes, the floor is out of level too. And neither tank will be filled completely although the water change sump will be pretty much full. Just a few inches from full
I'm torn on what to do about the insulation. During the winter, it would be nice to help keep the heat in the water from sinking to the floor. However, in the summer and warmer months (which we have more of than less of down here) the cool floor would help to keep the tank from over heating. So its kind of a toss up in my opinion.
I had a thought today about how to fix the level of the sumps. I have some scrap starboard. I could build a tapering jig for my table saw and run some full length tapered wedges to go under the frame of the tanks. That way the pressure would be along the entire length of the frames and not just under the corners. Any thoughts on that? I'm not sure if its worth the effort though.
I'm torn on what to do about the insulation. During the winter, it would be nice to help keep the heat in the water from sinking to the floor. However, in the summer and warmer months (which we have more of than less of down here) the cool floor would help to keep the tank from over heating. So its kind of a toss up in my opinion.
I had a thought today about how to fix the level of the sumps. I have some scrap starboard. I could build a tapering jig for my table saw and run some full length tapered wedges to go under the frame of the tanks. That way the pressure would be along the entire length of the frames and not just under the corners. Any thoughts on that? I'm not sure if its worth the effort though.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
That would likely be the easiest way to level the sumps.
ReefWaters
Premium Member
Melev....I was looking at your website and your light rack is pretty close to what I am planning. But the sliding mechanism is going to be a good bit different. Still haven't completely figured it out. Where did you get your angle iron and slides from?
melev
Well-known member
The aluminum angle iron was from Home Depot. The slides are made from a Pocket Door Track that I cut in half, so I'd get both rollers from one kit.
Here are some posts with the details:
7/30/2004 - Light Rack
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=3244873#post3244873
7/31/2004 - Pocket door hardware modified for light rack
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=3252924#post3252924
8/01/2004 -Lights move forward and back now.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=3252929#post3252929
Details: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=3256850#post3256850
Here are some posts with the details:
7/30/2004 - Light Rack
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=3244873#post3244873
7/31/2004 - Pocket door hardware modified for light rack
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=3252924#post3252924
8/01/2004 -Lights move forward and back now.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=3252929#post3252929
Details: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=3256850#post3256850
ReefWaters
Premium Member
Thanks for all the info Marc. Do you remember what section of HD you found the angle iron? I hate to ask, but unlike the commercials lead you to believe, my HD employees dont know $&^# about anything. Did you also find the shelf supports at HD?
Unfortunately, because Im moving my rack from left to right, and not front to back, my total track length needs to be at least 10 feet long. Im having a hard time finding something that will work.
The good old "barn door tracks" that many people use should work, but they are bulky and MAJOR OVERKILL for a light rack IMO.
Here's what I found from McMaster-Carr You'll have to hit the link and then enter in the part number (1225A23) in order to view it. I cant seem to link directly to the page.
Anyway, Im thinking it might be a little too pricey at somewhere around $225 shipped for two rail kits. But the barn door tracks wont be much cheaper and I like this a lot better.
Any other suggestions on moving the rack that far? If anyone is confused why I need to have such a long rail I can either try to explain it better or draw some kind of picture or something.
Did you also find the shelf supports at HD?Unfortunately, because Im moving my rack from left to right, and not front to back, my total track length needs to be at least 10 feet long. Im having a hard time finding something that will work.
The good old "barn door tracks" that many people use should work, but they are bulky and MAJOR OVERKILL for a light rack IMO.
Here's what I found from McMaster-Carr You'll have to hit the link and then enter in the part number (1225A23) in order to view it. I cant seem to link directly to the page.
Anyway, Im thinking it might be a little too pricey at somewhere around $225 shipped for two rail kits. But the barn door tracks wont be much cheaper and I like this a lot better.
Any other suggestions on moving the rack that far? If anyone is confused why I need to have such a long rail I can either try to explain it better or draw some kind of picture or something.
