ReefWreak's 29g SPS Biocube Adventure!

I had a really hard time getting any powerhead that wasn't an MP10 for my new system, because exactly what you've touched on.. I think to get the proper amount of varied flow I wanted, I would need the MP10 to be physically the size of the MP60 prop. MP10's are strong, and obviously pretty kick *** -- But I'd really like them to have a wider flow pattern, otherwise, to be truly happy with flow I would need 4 of them dialed all the way down (2 on sides, 2 on back wall).

But I couldn't help but love the GIANT spiral flow pattern from Sicce voyagers.They were also priced pretty decently. I've got a pair of Voyager 3's with their simple wavemaker, they push around 1500gph each so things are gonna be moving in my tank
 
I've thought about the Sicces... They make very solid pumps, I wouldn't hesitate to run one myself. I almost pulled the trigger on a Gyre pump as well, to mix with the MP10s... talk about overkill... But I really wanted to see if I'm getting deadspots, and it's tough to get really broad flow. The gyre only makes laminar flow, so it would need counter pumps, which I'd have the MP10s for... but yeah, too many different options and ways of spending money.

So instead I just took a pump that came with my tank, that wasn't enough flow to keep my corals from browning out when my old MP10 died, and just hooked it up to see if it could provide sufficient flow to just keep one small area in a top corner moving. So we'll see...
 
I've thought about the Sicces... They make very solid pumps, I wouldn't hesitate to run one myself. I almost pulled the trigger on a Gyre pump as well, to mix with the MP10s... talk about overkill... But I really wanted to see if I'm getting deadspots, and it's tough to get really broad flow. The gyre only makes laminar flow, so it would need counter pumps, which I'd have the MP10s for... but yeah, too many different options and ways of spending money.

So instead I just took a pump that came with my tank, that wasn't enough flow to keep my corals from browning out when my old MP10 died, and just hooked it up to see if it could provide sufficient flow to just keep one small area in a top corner moving. So we'll see...


It'll be interesting to see how your corals react. One of the macna speakers this year was saying how almost nobody has enough flow, but achieving that flow is often detrimental to our corals because our sources are too direct. he's got more degrees in marine biology than I, so I took his word for it lol.

I like the sicce's. Ugly arse pumps for sure with a huge footprint, but they felt like they had the largest flow pattern. They also create a clockwise spiral flow, which definitely hits corals all over. When facing each other a clockwise & counter-clockwise broad flow pattern clashes which is also does some cool stuff for flow.

All that said, if money wasn't a problem I'd have gone with 3 mp40's, or 2 mp40's and 2 mp10's
 
No worries Ritten. I don't use Purigen or Chemipure. I may have added Chemipure when I first got the tank, but haven't since then. I think I have a bottle or two in my stand that came with the tank when I bought it used, and just haven't used it. Purigen, I used in my old 24g tank, but honestly, I don't think it helped much.

I currently run no filtration media except a skimmer and high flow, and I've been happy with the results. If I have any nutrient issues, I can always go back to vodka dosing, which I've used on and off, and have been happy and successful with for lowering nutrients (it requires use of a skimmer, FYI).

I think the best thing to do is get your tank as balanced as possible naturally. By naturally, I mean light, flow, and skimming (kinda sorta natural nutrient removal). If you need to solve a problem, you can use purigen, GFO, or chemipure (elite includes GFO, blue includes different resins, and the normal is carbon+resins), but I prefer to keep things as simple as possible, particularly since I'm lazy, and won't change things out often. Cleaning a skimmer out a few times a week or feeding the fishes every day are enough work for me.
 
Hey Eric, I was just reading the posts about multiple clownfish. I've raised a few clutches and have yet to see a fish killed off by siblings. I'm sure if I add a third fish to my display tank it would be a disaster.https://vimeo.com/190881509

These guys have been together for about a year in this 30 gallon grow out tank. There were about 170 fish in there for quite a while and now I have maybe 80. I sold a dozen to Dcropley look up his "Dcropley's 34 gallon waterfall build" and they have been doing well in his tank.

It's hard for me to keep anemones in the grow out tank cause it's a constant nitrate battle with such a high fish load.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for stopping in Howard! I guess with that many, it really does work out well longer term, if you've had them for a year or so like that. I'm surprised, and I wonder if there is a time limit (i.e. once they're no longer in juvenile state, or start to pair up) where it becomes a problem, but I appreciate you sharing your results.

I can't even imagine how much you have to feed 80 clownfishes!
 
LOL, 80 clownfish can go through lots of food!!

Your tank is looking AMAZING!! You have the best polyp extension on your corals!!

My corals are growing, and some have ok polyp extension but none have really awesome polyp extension.

SOO, what do you think the key to great pe is?

Flow, light, stable parameters, right nutrient levels?

If you think its a combination of factors, then how would you rank the factors from most important to least important?

Thanks buddy
 
Thanks!

It's always a combination of factors, and IMO, in this order:

1. Stable parameters - gotta be stable, otherwise it doesn't matter how much light and flow you have, you'll have brown or dead corals.

2. Flow - corals breathe water, they get nutrients from the water, and they excrete into the water, the more dense the coral, the more difficult it is for water to get into the nooks and crannies.

3. Light - After all the innovations of LEDs, at the end of the day, if you have enough light, you can get good coloration. Doesn't matter if you have a single 10K metal halide bulb, or have only white and blue LEDs instead of a rainbow of varieties of individual LEDs, you can achieve coloration with any of these solutions, as has been demonstrated by RC TOTM winners over the decades. Some light may be easier or harder to get good coloration, but more often than not, the real issue is with one of the first two mentioned, probably not the lights.

4. Nutrient levels - In the beginning I advocate shooting for 0 nitrate and 0 phosphate, because most beginners have algae problems; It's part of the learning curve of the hobby. Once your tank is mature and you can keep low-to-no nutrients and have no algae issues, you can start to work on coral coloration. If you have issues with coloration, it can be helpful to add more food into the tank, whether that means coral food, more fishes to poop more and create more ammonia in the water column, or adding raw nutrients directly. But while doing any of this, you must keep an eye on your nutrient levels and algae growth, because if either of those spike, you're back to square one.

I've never seen coral "starve to death" in an aquarium. You can have problems with low nutrients and super-high alkalinity. Short of that I've never seen not feeding corals directly or intentionally be a problem. I would call Jim's aquarium that we visited up in Westchester very low fishload, but yet he has great coloration and coral growth. I think he said he fed his corals a bit as well, but there is a medium between his low-ish fish load and what you're seeing with a lot of advanced SPS keepers now, which is swarms of fishes. If you like fishes, that's great, but I think a lot of people are adding more fish with the intent of feeding corals, and the nutrient control aspect of that is walking a very fine line.
 
I don't know if you've stumbled on BigE's thread "Top Down Shots"
Its on Reef Central in the Northern Ohio Reefkeeper section.
He's got some of the deepest acro colors around and a pretty simple philosophy.

I'm curious to hear your take on it.

Howard
 
I don't know if you've stumbled on BigE's thread "Top Down Shots"
Its on Reef Central in the Northern Ohio Reefkeeper section.
He's got some of the deepest acro colors around and a pretty simple philosophy.

I'm curious to hear your take on it.

Howard

I've looked at that thread, but it is DENSE -- Could you give me his basic idea/philosophies here?

Also, World Wide Corals has some beautiful acros.. Their main display tank is like 1100 gallons, and houses some of the most colorful SPS you can find anywhere.

The list of gear in their sump is as follows:
- Old school calcium reactor

Yep, that's it. KISS works well for most :)
 
Hi! Did you add a bigger return pump to your tank. I skimmed the first few pages of your thread, but didn't see it.
 
ReefWreak's 29g SPS Biocube Adventure!

He's also KIS.
Bare bottom
No filter socks
Two part dosing Ca and Alk
10% weekly water change
Overdriven t5s with ice cap ballasts.
7 or 8 hour photo period, no ramping.
Good flow
Oversized skimmer

He feels like the filter socks steal detritus he wants going to the skimmer.
And algae scrubbers, and refugiums are taking coral food away. Uses clean up crew for algae, and a tank full of SPS to soak up the nutrients. I like this saying he has, I'll paraphrase:

"There is a difference between a Zero nitrate tank lightly fed with few fish and pale corals and a well fed tank full of fish with deeply colored corals and zero nitrate."




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
567624e38e3f09556f4510d313d8a61e.jpg
3dd79933140cae438530f1a0a8866df6.jpg
c134318eaa2e3e55ef6a0193224e8822.jpg
91621f21206c327b2a36e2fa794d297d.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I don't know if you've stumbled on BigE's thread "Top Down Shots"
Its on Reef Central in the Northern Ohio Reefkeeper section.
He's got some of the deepest acro colors around and a pretty simple philosophy.

I'm curious to hear your take on it.
Howard

I've seen his tank on here, as well as some of the other amazing tanks in the SPS forum and elsewhere. I'd have to spend a bit more time reviewing it, but it does look like he follows KISS (though he does have a skimmer and has done vodka/carbon dosing). I'll have to do some more reading on it though and get back to you with an informed opinion :p

Also, World Wide Corals has some beautiful acros.. Their main display tank is like 1100 gallons, and houses some of the most colorful SPS you can find anywhere.

The list of gear in their sump is as follows:
- Old school calcium reactor

Yep, that's it. KISS works well for most :)

That's partially true. They do advocate moderate >10ppm nitrates and moderate to high phosphates, but remember they're busy maintaining their tank 24/7, and have almost unlimited resources to maintain their tank, particularly with labor and water change water... But yes, amazing system (though I haven't seen it in person; I was at the store about 10 years ago, but they weren't the SPS/hobby juggernaut that they are today).

Hi! Did you add a bigger return pump to your tank. I skimmed the first few pages of your thread, but didn't see it.

Hi Ritten, I did, but not intentionally. The tank had the original pump in it until that pump died, then I replaced it with my waterchange pump, a Cobalt maxi-jet 900, so thats what it is now. I really don't rely on the rear pump for flow, I more rely on the in-display propeller powerheads to drive the flow game.

He's also KIS.
Bare bottom
No filter socks
Two part dosing Ca and Alk
10% weekly water change
Overdriven t5s with ice cap ballasts.
7 or 8 hour photo period, no ramping.
Good flow
Oversized skimmer

He feels like the filter socks steal detritus he wants going to the skimmer.
And algae scrubbers, and refugiums are taking coral food away. Uses clean up crew for algae, and a tank full of SPS to soak up the nutrients. I like this saying he has, I'll paraphrase:

I support that style of running a tank (though I prefer having a sand bed). I also am still on the fence about algae scrubbers and refugiums (I assume that means algae-growing refugiums, not pod-creation refugiums). We have to remember that most people who see this post, or are browsing reefcentral aren't at the level that he is. They'll say "oh, he gets great color by keeping nitrates higher" and then that person has always had an algae problem, and then they start letting nitrates creep up, and their algae never goes away, and they get frustrated and quit the hobby never having achieved success.

That's why I'm so adamant that when people start talking about letting nutrient levels rise, they use it in the context of that their tank is mature, they've had plenty of time and experience running at low to no nitrates and phosphates, and they understand how to gradually let those levels rise in a controlled fashion.

I think that most people on this website should/need to shoot for 0 nitrate and 0 phosphate first and foremost. Then once you've got great growth, and you're looking for the next way of increasing coloration in your tank, you can let your nutrients slowly rise.

"There is a difference between a Zero nitrate tank lightly fed with few fish and pale corals and a well fed tank full of fish with deeply colored corals and zero nitrate."

100%, but it's always easier to add nutrients in to deepen colors than it is to lower nutrients and beat back algal swarms. I think it's great that the hobby has in general advanced to a level where people can pretty easily and readily reduce their nitrates and phosphates to 0. Fantastic. But you still have to play it safe raising them again without exploding algae everywhere. That balance is the new frontier.
 
Just switched the SPS into my new tank, sadly, they're all ****ED and look like crap, literally. Params matched 100%, water temp was good, everything stable. The only big difference is going from shitty 4x24 fixture to an ATI 4x24 (2 bulbs are off on my 6 bulb).

No STN or RTN, so hoping they just *really* hated that dip before transfer and will recover fully.
 
Sorry to hear that man. I imagine it was the dipping, which you casually mentioned towards the end. I've been surprised at not having more trouble with Bayer dip, because every other dipping product I've ever used has browned out my corals. Even with Bayer, there is definitely a recovery period after the fact.

I'm sure they'll recover though. Just think of it as a pleasant surprise when they color up again. Might take a month or two even with stable parameters, good flow, and good lighting.

Also, if your old fixture was really crappy, be careful when putting them under a new fixture, that the change in bulb/reflector won't be a huge increase in PAR. Don't want bleaching either!
 
Oh yeah, big change in lighting! Went from Radion XR15 G3 + AquaticLife 2x24 T5 ---> AquaticLife 4x24 ---> now 6x24 ATI with new reflectors/bulbs.

They should only be getting about 250 par, and these came from an outdoor frag tank except for a few of my old frags.
 
Back
Top