Regal Angel Primer
- Thread starter DJPB
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BigBlueTang
Active member
Regal Angel Primer
Mine is:
Temp Acclimate into formalin dip which is already set to the salinity the fish is at. Release into formalin.45 minutes
Catch fish, then place into another bucket that is just fresh saltwater for 30 minutes
Then transfer to QT
TTM if I feel the fish isn't completely healthy after a week, and Prazi during that
I'll usually end up dosing prazi.
5-8 week observation to end it.
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Mine is:
Temp Acclimate into formalin dip which is already set to the salinity the fish is at. Release into formalin.45 minutes
Catch fish, then place into another bucket that is just fresh saltwater for 30 minutes
Then transfer to QT
TTM if I feel the fish isn't completely healthy after a week, and Prazi during that
I'll usually end up dosing prazi.
5-8 week observation to end it.
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BigBlueTang
Active member
Sweet, that's awesome news.
Try getting the hikari brand of mysis, they're about a 1/4 of the size of the PE shrimp.. I feed PE and Hikari almost exclusively
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VJV
New member
I've developed a protocol that is still highly effective (as effective as it can possibly be) while at the same time minimizing copper exposure on the fish.
Unless the fish arrives obviously covered with parasites I do not dip but just drip acclimate. I never buy online and the fish never spend more than 1h in the bag so not really concerned about ammonia, otherwise I would skip drip acclimation or at least add some Seachem Prime or other ammonia remover to the bag.
1- acclimate fish
2- 1st treatment of Prazipro
3- 2nd treatment (one week later)
4- observe for one month for any signs of parasites
5- if no signs are visible, treat for 8-10 days with cupramine at full power 0,5ppm (but slowly ramping up to that level for a week prior..
6- immediately move to display
This treatment is more effective than the typical 4 weeks copper treatment AND a lot less hard on the fish. Why?
1- Trophonts only stay attached to the fish for up to 7 days. So any Trophonts that we're attached to the fish and drop off will be killed during this period.
2- any tomites that excyst during this period will also be killed when in contact with the fully dosed copper.
So if you take out the fish during this period you can be pretty sure that he is parasite free.
Note that some Tomonts may have been left behind so you should sterilize the QT before the next fish.
3- studies show that Tomonts may remain encysted up to 72 days (on rare occasions). Given copper only kills during the free swimming stages (Tomites or Protomonts) this means that in a typical 4 week treatment you run the risk of some Tomonts last longer than the treatment and than hatch during the typical "observation phase.
If you want to be even more certain and observe the fish before moving to display, at the end of the process instead of moving to the display you can move to a new, sterilized QT tank.
I have been doing this with success, and like the fact that it is much more gentle on the fish.
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Unless the fish arrives obviously covered with parasites I do not dip but just drip acclimate. I never buy online and the fish never spend more than 1h in the bag so not really concerned about ammonia, otherwise I would skip drip acclimation or at least add some Seachem Prime or other ammonia remover to the bag.
1- acclimate fish
2- 1st treatment of Prazipro
3- 2nd treatment (one week later)
4- observe for one month for any signs of parasites
5- if no signs are visible, treat for 8-10 days with cupramine at full power 0,5ppm (but slowly ramping up to that level for a week prior..
6- immediately move to display
This treatment is more effective than the typical 4 weeks copper treatment AND a lot less hard on the fish. Why?
1- Trophonts only stay attached to the fish for up to 7 days. So any Trophonts that we're attached to the fish and drop off will be killed during this period.
2- any tomites that excyst during this period will also be killed when in contact with the fully dosed copper.
So if you take out the fish during this period you can be pretty sure that he is parasite free.
Note that some Tomonts may have been left behind so you should sterilize the QT before the next fish.
3- studies show that Tomonts may remain encysted up to 72 days (on rare occasions). Given copper only kills during the free swimming stages (Tomites or Protomonts) this means that in a typical 4 week treatment you run the risk of some Tomonts last longer than the treatment and than hatch during the typical "observation phase.
If you want to be even more certain and observe the fish before moving to display, at the end of the process instead of moving to the display you can move to a new, sterilized QT tank.
I have been doing this with success, and like the fact that it is much more gentle on the fish.
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VJV
New member
Main reason is because copper seems to render praziquantel ineffective according to what I have read. I can not attest to it but just in case I prefer not to mix them.
Also, I prefer to spare the fish from the toxic cocktail.
If you do opt to move to an observation tank instead of the main display after the full treatment, bear in mind the following:
1- the observation tank should at all times be at least 10feet from the QT (probably best to immediately empty and sterilize the QT), to avoid aerosol cross contamination (this has been reported in some studies but it is not 100% proven. However, if you go the trouble of QT might as well take this extra precaution. Better safe than sorry).
2- if you do keep the QT running for a while longer (because you may not have the time to empty it right away) keep the copper concentration at full power.
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VJV
New member
Mines doing well
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Beautiful! I've moved mine to the display and he continues to gobble up pellets, frozen and flakes [emoji4]. I do wish the coloration was more orange (like yours) and not so yellow. Does anyone know what drives the color variants? Is it point of origin? Age? Feeding?
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carrots
New member
The Red Sea has the most orange and red on the fins. My guess is the closer to that area your fish is captured, the more it may resemble the Red Sea variant. If you have adjustable LED lights you can also intensify the orange color if that is what you like.
bif24701
New member
I have not seen any documentation that the two are not compatible to be used together. The experts (Humblefish) in the Reef fish disease section don't seem to have issue with it either.
I follow all standard QT practices as best I can. All my QTs' are away from my display water and covered.
My Regal is now in a copper concentration of about .04-.05. Also started the first Parizopro course yesterday.
He is eating clams, PE mysis, and peaked at some live black worms.
I take it that Regals are not aggressive eaters like Tangs, how true is that? My new powder brown is a monster eating machine, and the yellow not far behind. The Blue Tang in my display also eats like a pig.
To ALL,
Describe how your Regal's appetite is so that I have something to compare mine too as I do not have a lot of experience with large angel fish.
Thank you.
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VJV
New member
Regal Angel Primer
Well, Humblefish is the first to say that you should not mix both. It does not have adverse effects on the fish, but the copper significantly reduces the potency of Prazi. Also, why wait 1 month before Prazi when in my experience it is very gentle on the fish and most fish these days come with one form or another of flukes? Also, if you remove flukes from the equation from the start you will know during the observation month prior to copper that if the fish starts to show flashing, rubbing, etc, it should not be flukes but rather ich or velvet.
One other thing, if you do go down the rout of transferring the fish to an observation tablature the 10 days of copper you can do it right after the Prazi, and than observe the fish for 1 month in a new, sterilized tank. Humblefish actually goes down this route. I prefer mine because I can fatten the fish up prior to copper, but to each its own. (And do not need the hassle of a second observation tank).
BTW, my Reagal eats like a [emoji200]
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Well, Humblefish is the first to say that you should not mix both. It does not have adverse effects on the fish, but the copper significantly reduces the potency of Prazi. Also, why wait 1 month before Prazi when in my experience it is very gentle on the fish and most fish these days come with one form or another of flukes? Also, if you remove flukes from the equation from the start you will know during the observation month prior to copper that if the fish starts to show flashing, rubbing, etc, it should not be flukes but rather ich or velvet.
One other thing, if you do go down the rout of transferring the fish to an observation tablature the 10 days of copper you can do it right after the Prazi, and than observe the fish for 1 month in a new, sterilized tank. Humblefish actually goes down this route. I prefer mine because I can fatten the fish up prior to copper, but to each its own. (And do not need the hassle of a second observation tank).
BTW, my Reagal eats like a [emoji200]
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bif24701
New member
Thank you for the explanation, now I understand much better.
Mine is eating but not like I would expect my tangs to eat. I guess eating at all is a good sign. I will continue to monitor and report.
I have the following foods: PE Mysis, Hakari pellets (Marine-S and Seaweed Extreme) Live black worms, clams on the half shell. What other foods should I try?
Salty150
New member
Angelfish are like that... they are very curious, smart, etc.
If you put a finger to the glass and move it around he more than likely will follow it too...
:fish1:
