Regal Tangs in a Reef...ICH!!

[tonypittman]

I have a 2-3 inch Regal Tang. Great fish...great "personality" My problem has been ich.
I have snails, cleaner shrimp, and corals in my tank...so I can't treat with copper.
I have been trying Ruby Reef's Kick Ich product.

The first time I saw Ich, the fish started to look pretty bad quickly, so I had to remove it and treat with copper in a separate tank.
After waiting for 2-3 weeks, I then moved the fish back to my main tank (he was looking fine).
My concern is...I'd hate to keep having to do this to him.

Are there any good reef-safe ich treatments or, better yet, preventitives, that you have used and had success with?

I really want to keep a regal tang, and I really want a reef tank. I just hope the two can co-exist.

Thanks

 

[ledford1]

Preventatives? QT. Quarantine the fish for 5-6 weeks before putting it into your tank, watching for any signs of disease.

I don't know of any effective Ich medicines that are also reef safe. You'll want to use medications that should only be used in a QT.

You could try soaking its food in garlic juice, trying to build up its immune system. Sometimes that is effective, but its results are often only temporary.

When you took the BT out to medicate, you should have left the fish in the QT for a longer period. After the Ich disappeared, you should have waited another 4-5 weeks to make sure it's truly gone and not just in another period of it's life cycle.

BTs are Ich magnets, so QT is essential with them.

There is a lot of info the the Fish Disease forum also.

HTH and good luck.

 

[tonypittman]

Anyone have success with Ruby Reef's Kick Ich? It is supposedly reef safe...I hope it works on Ich. Could companies really release products that just flat DON't WORK? I hope I at least have a chance...the thought of pulling over 100 pounds of rock out is no fun...and to get my fish, especially the Royal Gramma and the Bullet Goby out would almost certainly mean completely tearing up the tank...which would probably do more damage than the ich!!

 

[ahill3780]

Personally, I would not dose any kind of treatment in the main tank, even if it says it is reef safe.

As to removing the specimen for treatment - just keep thinking about it and you'll find a way. I like to turn off the lights and stick a clear glass container into the tank and chase the fish into it. They have a very hard time seeing glass in the water if it is not moving. I have had lots of success using this method. It's always a good idea to hide the entrance to their hiding spots so they cannot dart right back into the rockwork. It may take some time but you can do it.

Good luck, and happy reefing!

 

[mcox33]

Just go get a good UV sterilizer.

When I set up my 90 gallon. I transfered the rock and water from a 55 gallon. Which made the new setup basically cycled. It was like I did a 50% water change.

Well the rock tank had a fish in it, but no major lighting. Anyway the fish was in a Specium cup hanging on the tank. The lid would not fit down as the cup was not made for a rim as wide as the 90 gallon. When I walked over to the cup to look at the fish and make sure he was healthy before putting him in the tank he jumped in.

As soon as I set the lights on the tank. I saw a major case of ICK.

I hooked up the uv sterilizer, within 3 days the fish was ICK FREE. I waited another 2 months before adding more fish. The uv sterilizer runs 24/7 and I have never had Ick again.

I don't even quarintine although I probably should.

 

[tonypittman]

hmm...interesting. I have read wide ranging opinions on UV sterlizers. some say that it works great (like you say) and others say they are a waste of money. I don't know..maybe I need a better one. I have the smallest TurboTwist (says it works up to 125G)....but it does not seem to stop the ich. I was thinking of adding a second UV....because this Ich stuff is killing me. I think I will try adding another one..or a bigger one. Your results are encouraging.

 

[BlackOnyx]

kent marine rxP is suppose to work and its natural.

http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=KM3531

 

[NeilPearson]

I think your best bet is it QT again, treat with copper again (or hyposalinity) but this time wait 6 weeks to make sure the ick has died out in the main tank...

oh yeah, you can't have any fish in the main tank while you are doing this or the ick will have a host and it will survive

 

[tonypittman]

That is the tough part, Neil. It would be a monumental effort for me to get ALL of the fish out and move them to QT. One fish in particular, a bullet goby, loves to burrough in the sand bed...would be almost impossible to get out of there without making a total wreck of the tank.

I am going to have to keep up with the garlic...try UV (maybe a 2nd UV)..and maybe daily water changes would help? I'll try ANYTHING to avoid tearing up the tank!!! Any other ideas?

 

[ledford1]

It would be a monumental effort for me to get ALL of the fish out and move them to QT. One fish in particular, a bullet goby, loves to burrough in the sand bed...would be almost impossible to get out of there without making a total wreck of the tank.

This is why proper quarantining, especially with BTs, is so important. Something that seems like it should be easy to fix causes you to tear everything apart. It's a pain, but is sometimes necessary.

Garlic and UV will help, just don't expect it to cure the Ich.

Depending on the number and size of fish, you may have to setup a couple of QTs. Copper, such as Cupramine, and/or hyposalinity will take care of the Ich on the fish. And without any fish in the display tank, the Ich will not have any hosts and die off, taking up to 6 weeks.

It takes time, money, and effort, but everything should be fine in the long run.