Repairing blown TRIAC on the EB8

[electrotech]

Following is how to repair a shorted TRIAC on the EB8 module for Apex Controller.

*****Disclaimer****
Taking this unit apart will most likely void any warranty you have and if your not careful or know what your doing you could destroy your Energy Bar. If your unit is under warranty be smart and send it back to Neptune for repairs.

This is for the mechanically inclined and electrically skilled DIYer.


Ok lets get started.

First step verify you have a problem. WITH 120V POWER DISCONNECTED and AQUABUS disconnected, use an ohm meter and measure between the power and return pins on the outlet. A good TRIAC will read open a shorted one will not.

Here is a good outlet in my case #2



Here is a bad one in my case #3 and #6



So on to dis-assembly

First remove the 8 screws 4 on each side and the 2 screws on the top. Also remove the retaining ring around the breaker.



The case is tight around the Aquabus connectors and you have to shimmy it out of there carefully.

Next remove the two larger screws and nuts holding the ground wires to the chassis. This will separate the bottom case and you can set it aside.



Now you can see the outlet sockets.



You have to depress the retaining notches and separate the sockets a little and kind of work around the module until all 8 are free.



You can see I've separated these a little working around.



Once all 8 are free you can rotate the board off the top and see the TRIACs mounted to the heat sink in the middle.



The back side



You can directly measure them now top or bottom it's pins 1 and 2, pin 3 is the gate.

 

[electrotech]

Remove the screws and nuts to remove the heat sink.




I started out attempting to use a hot air pencil as I always do at work however the board is cheap and it started to delaminate so I don't recommend this. Instead I cut the leads and wicked the holes out one by one old school style, lol.



Once the parts are removed wick the holes clean.




New parts



Place the new parts in the holes



I put some heat sink compound on the heat sink as this is common practice for these parts, however there was none from the factory.



As you can see I pulled some of the terminals out to ease re-assembly, and I found it easier to screw from backside and nuts on front.

 

[electrotech]

Trim your leads down and solder them.




Check with ohm meter just because



Clean the board. You don't have to but I work in Mil-spec electronics and it's required. Flux is corrosive.


I did end up removing the top case completely by unsoldering the wires. I found it easier to work on the board. Also if you pop out the outlet clips from the top it makes re-assembly easier.



Re-install the board into the top case and secure with the 2 top screws and the breaker retainer.



Re-install the top outlet clips.



If you unsoldered the power wires re-attach them along with the ground wire to chassis by the board.



Re-attach the ground wire to the bottom chassis and re-connect the two halves. Remember the spot by the USB connectors is tight be careful shimmying the case in there. Re-install all 8 screws and your done.

 

[Metal Man 1221]

Very cool. Thanks for taking the time to document this.

 

[ptreef]

awesome!!

 

[electrotech]

I verified when I got home from work everything works and now my 2 always on outlets actually switch off.

 

[tkeracer619]

These are the sockets in case you mess them up or want to replace them.
http://www.onlinecomponents.com/schurter-43000703.html?p=12640096

 

[Steveb]

Can you post a link to the replacement triac you used?

 

[electrotech]

Can you post a link to the replacement triac you used?

This is the same part as factory 600V rated

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/BTA12-600BWRG/497-3121-5-ND/654429


This is the part I used 800V rated

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/BTA12-800BRG/497-12146-ND/2827080

 

[Steveb]

This is the same part as factory 600V rated

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/BTA12-600BWRG/497-3121-5-ND/654429


This is the part I used 800V rated

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/BTA12-800BRG/497-12146-ND/2827080

Awesome thanks for the write up!

 

[d0ughb0y]

good job.

I know you closed your EB8 now, but just curious what the big square chip in this picture is? looks like an Atmel logo, wondering if it is an ATMega328.

 

[electrotech]

It is an Atmel part, says

Atmel
MEGA88PA
AU 1048

It's clearer in another picture I have.

 

[d0ughb0y]

ok, that's exactly the same as a 328, but with half the eeprom and sram.
I know they claim aquabus is not I2C, but I suspect it is.
pins 27 and 28 are the SDA and SCL pins. You can trace the pcb connection to the usb connectors.

is that 6 pins (3x2 arrangement) at the upper right corner of the picture a 6 pin header on the other side? if so, that may be the ISCP connector to program the atmel chip. I figure if the program on the chip can be decoded, we can build custom aquabus devices.

 

[electrotech]

ok, that's exactly the same as a 328, but with half the eeprom and sram.
I know they claim aquabus is not I2C, but I suspect it is.
pins 27 and 28 are the SDA and SCL pins. You can trace the pcb connection to the usb connectors.

is that 6 pins (3x2 arrangement) at the upper right corner of the picture a 6 pin header on the other side? if so, that may be the ISCP connector to program the atmel chip. I figure if the program on the chip can be decoded, we can build custom aquabus devices.

i don't have a picture of that side of the board.

 

[805reef]

Nice write up! Very detailed and easy to follow.

Looks like doughboy has a new project!

 

[tugg]

Awesome thread, I registered just to say thanks for sharing. Is there any chance you can post the other ICs' info? I'm curious how they did the current sensor.

 

[SloppyWhenWet]

Nice write up. Of all the things I've works on boards I have limited understand.

 

[sleepydoc]

ok, that's exactly the same as a 328, but with half the eeprom and sram.
I know they claim aquabus is not I2C, but I suspect it is.
pins 27 and 28 are the SDA and SCL pins. You can trace the pcb connection to the usb connectors.

is that 6 pins (3x2 arrangement) at the upper right corner of the picture a 6 pin header on the other side? if so, that may be the ISCP connector to program the atmel chip. I figure if the program on the chip can be decoded, we can build custom aquabus devices.

Cool idea - I wouldn't be at all surprised if the bus is i2c. Given the large base of chips and other devices available it makes more sense to use established protocols than start designing and debugging something custom.

 

[aaronpentz]

Ill be doing this over christmas if anybody needs any more detailed pictures of traces.

 

[kth]

ok, that's exactly the same as a 328, but with half the eeprom and sram.
I know they claim aquabus is not I2C, but I suspect it is.
pins 27 and 28 are the SDA and SCL pins. You can trace the pcb connection to the usb connectors.

is that 6 pins (3x2 arrangement) at the upper right corner of the picture a 6 pin header on the other side? if so, that may be the ISCP connector to program the atmel chip. I figure if the program on the chip can be decoded, we can build custom aquabus devices.

Pretty sure Neptune is using CAN bus for the aquabus.