replacing ro filters..pics inside

[igotthatFIREman]

hey everyone, when it comes to ro/di units i have no idea. i have a few questions.
do you think i need to replace my filters? one of them looks a little yellow and the last one has a big brown bloch on it. they have been like this for a couple months but the unit isnt very old but i have probably made 500-700gallons im guessing.

it is a coralife 50gpd. im pretty sure it is ro/di... not just ro...am i wrong?

which filters should i replace and where is the best place to get them? and also what caused this? is it normal?

thanks in advance

 

[SeanT]

Do you have a TDS meter and tested the ouput?

 

[Beach Native]

I'd say your sediment filter is due...given that, your carbon is probably also due. I'm a bit curious as to why your resin appears to be changing from the top down...

 

[igotthatFIREman]

thats one thing i forgot to mention, i dont have a tds meter. maybe i should get one of those then i would be able to tell if i need to replace things.

where is the best place to shop for ro filters?
and could i just play it safe and replace them all?
how often do i replace the membrain

 

[igotthatFIREman]

what is the best tds meter i can get off ebay for a resonable price? i would like to use it to tell if my water in my holding bucket is still good after it sitting for a week or so as well as the water right off the unit.

 

[DarG]

You dont need to change the membrane along with the other prefilters. Membrane should be good for 2 or 3 years in average situations. You can get a decent TDS meter from the filter guys dot biz for around $20. They also have the pre filters and membranes and DI resin and carts.

 

[AZDesertRat]

A TDS meter is the very first thing you need to buy, without it you are just guessing at both your RO/DI units condition and your water quality. The best TDS meter you can buy by far is the HM Digital COM-100, no other hobbyist grade meter is in the same ballpark. Whatever you get make sure it is a handheld, inline meters are not as accurate since they cannot be calibrated and they are not truly temperature compensated at this time. Readings can be significantly off if your water temperature and air temperature are not exactly the same.
As for filters, the prefilter and carbon need to be changed every 6 months like clockwork and make sure to disinfect the housings while you have it apart to help prevent the possibility bacterial or viral growth in the assembly. The membrane should last 3+ years if you pay attention to the regular filter replacements, use only high quality replacements in the proper micron ranges and do the disinfection routine. DI resin or cartridges are entirely dependent on how efficient your RO membrane is and how much water you make, it could last one month, 6 months or more. As already mentioned, Filter Guys is a good source as is www.buckeyefieldsupply.com, www.melevsreef.com , www.purelyh2o.com or www.spectrapure.com .

 

[igotthatFIREman]

how do i tell which filter is which? i dont no which is di, or carbon or whatever the other one is. and how do i know what micron to get?

im ordering a hand held tds off ebay...do i need to get caibration liquid?

and since im brngin up calibration fluid...is it ok to caibrate my refracometer with ro water? thats what the instructions say and thats what i have always done but im not sure because i read something else...

 

[AZDesertRat]

The rust looking one, normally on the left, is the sediment filter. The middle one is the carbon block and the mottled colored one is the DI.
TDS meters don't need much calibration as long as you make sure to triple rinse them in DI water after each use and always put the cap on it when done. Never ever put it away dirty.
I use DI water to check my refractometer.

 

[igotthatFIREman]

what is di water? is that just ro/di?

im not sure what u mean mottled colored one...im guessing that one that has black, brown, green...the last picture shown...