replacing ro filters ...

igotthatFIREman

In Memoriam
im replacing the filters on my ro unit today. is there anyhting i need to know? i dont want to damage the membrane. i am replacing the sediment, carbon, and di cartrages. is there anything i need to know or do i just unscrew the plastics and put in the new cartrage. do i need to let them rinse for a little or what? first time changing so anything important please tell me. thank you in advance
 
just unscrew the cartridge---they should have given you a tool to grab the plasic outside shell and turn it with.
I am curious--how long did you run these for before deciding to replace them?
 
that's about exactly when i had to replace mine--only the give away was hardly nothing was passing through to collect--not very scientific but it solved the problem.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10225670#post10225670 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by igotthatFIREman
about 6 months. i got a tds meter and the tds was like 18 so i ordered new cartrages...

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10226182#post10226182 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by capn_hylinur
that's about exactly when i had to replace mine--only the give away was hardly nothing was passing through to collect--not very scientific but it solved the problem.

dont mean to hyjack the thread but you guys waited till your TDS was mesuring 18 before you changed your cartridges? My tap is only 8tds. When I see 1 or 2 on my TDS meter I change my filters. I keep my RO TDS at 0. Or undetectible.

igotthatFIREman
you might want to look into a 'Flush Kit' for your membrane. They are cheep like $14.00 and help prolong the life of your membrane.
 
Make sure you disinfect the housings before installing the new filters. Your unit should have come with directions on how to do so.
Final TDS is not an indication of when to replace prefilters and carbons. A 6 month interval is a good rule to follow for replacement. Prefilters and carbons are mostly there to protect the RO membrane which does remove TDS. Prefilters remove TSS or larger suspended solids and have little to no effect at all on TDS.
A reading of 18 tells me your DI was definitely in need of replacement long ago. Have you checked your RO membranes rejection rate or efficiency? This will determine how long DI resin lasts and what your final TDS numbers should be.
 
i was getting a reading of 8 with just ro water. i waited so long to replace the cartrages because i didnt have a tds meter. and i replaced all the filters jsut to be safe, not the membrane though. now my tds is 0 but i didnt clean out the housings because i put the new ones in before i read this... thanks for the help
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10226885#post10226885 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by AZDesertRat
Make sure you disinfect the housings before installing the new filters. Your unit should have come with directions on how to do so.
Final TDS is not an indication of when to replace prefilters and carbons. A 6 month interval is a good rule to follow for replacement. Prefilters and carbons are mostly there to protect the RO membrane which does remove TDS. Prefilters remove TSS or larger suspended solids and have little to no effect at all on TDS.
A reading of 18 tells me your DI was definitely in need of replacement long ago. Have you checked your RO membranes rejection rate or efficiency? This will determine how long DI resin lasts and what your final TDS numbers should be.

I never saw any instructions for disinfecting---that figures- can you elaborate or supply a link on how to do this(for next time in my case)
thanks
Scott
 
Regarding when to change your filters:

A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the useable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or both of the filters is beginning to clog.

Also be cognizant of the chlorine capacity of the carbon block. The Matrikx+1 (“Chlorine Guzzler”) for example will remove 99% of chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm. Original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons.

Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, use your TDS meter to measure, record, and track the tds (expressed in parts per million) in three places:
1. Tap water
2. After the RO but before the DI
3. After the DI.

The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1000 parts per million (ppm). Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?

If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block filter (collectively called prefilters) do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the “in” port on your RO housing and you'll see its still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 90% (i.e., they reject 90% of the dissolved solids in feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 40 ppm (a 90% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce less purified water (aka “permeate”), but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 98%). The life span of a RO membrane is dependant upon how much water you run through it, and how dirty the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the total dissolved solids (TDS) in the water coming in to the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane’s advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce less water as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the 40 ppm water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm to 3 ppm, 5 ppm, and higher, you know that your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin “dirty” water. This will exhaust the resin quicker then would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin â€"œ remember that all resins are not created equal!

Russ
 
RE sanitizing a system w/o a pressure tank:

We recommend sanitizing your RO/DI system approximately once per year. Schedule this process at a time when you are planning to replace your cartridges. These instructions apply to water purification systems without a pressure tank. Before you begin assure that you have about an hour available, and that your work area and hands are clean.

Turn off the water supply to the system.

Remove all housings and remove all pre-filters and post-filters from the system including sediment filters, carbon filters, in-line filters, and deionization cartridges. Remove the reverse osmosis membrane(s).

Wash housings with a soft brush or cloth in warm soapy water. Rinse thoroughly to remove all soap. Don’t forget to carefully remove and wash all o-rings. Lubricate the o-rings with a small amount of silicone grease and reinstall them.

Fill each vertical housing with one cup of potable water and three to four tablespoons of household bleach, and with this sanitizing liquid still in the housings, screw them back on to the system.

Turn on the water supply a bit, allow water to fill the entire system, and assure water is flowing out of the waste line and the purified water line. Place the outlet of the drain tube and purified water tube slightly higher than the system to assure these tubes are full of the sanitizing solution. When the sanitizing solution has reached the outlet of each tube, and with the outlet of each tube placed above the rest of the system, shut off the water supply for 30 minutes.

After 30 minutes, turn the water supply on and assure that water exits the system from both the drain tube and the purified water port. Flush the sanitizing solution from the system for 5 to 10 minutes.

Turn off the water supply and install new filters.

We recommend keeping a maintenance record for your system. Record the date of the sanitizing and filter replacement.
 
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