Research has me discouraged!!

Potreefer

New member
Hi
Last time I had a tank was 2007
I’ve been researching this as my interest peaked
Problem is it’s seems the failure and expense rate is as high as ever
It’s not if but when you have loses, algae, equipment failure ect

I’d like more positive feedback on this hobby but if yet to find it
 
Bah, that’s just the nature of the hobby. I’ve been in since the 80’s and I’ve had good times and bad times. Still going😉
 
Welcome back!

Success is available. The biggest issue I’ve seen with failures is a lack of patience. I can offer my own reccomendations based on my experiences:

Start with at least half live rock (aquacultured (KP Aquatics, Tampa Bay Saltwater, Gulf Live Rock, etc) or real (Australian (pricey but I’ve heard light weight for volume))) If you can afford to use all live rock, my experience is that will help skip several of the “ugly stages” initially. I say initially as they’ll still come but just not as bad in my experience.

Many times used equipment is just as good as brand new. And just cause its not as popular doesn’t mean it won’t work. What I mean by this is many LED systems that are older work just as good as newer systems if you’re on a budget (for example Radion Gen 3 and Gen 4 work just as well as Gen 6 though you may not have certain features) but also nowadays most reef LED system will work (even the cheap ones) again it’s just features that will likely be missing. Also halide and T5 are still around. They still work. They’re just harder to find.

You don’t have to have the latest and greatest equipment. My system is very basic (halides, dosing pump and sump) and I’m starting to grow halides. Others have filter rollers, algae turf scrubbers, hefty skimmers, UV sterilizers, algae reactors, bio reactors, carbon reactors, etc, and some are successful, others have the hardest time.

One thing to keep in mind, low nutrients are generally considered a thing of the past. It’s believed that low nutrients are often the cause of algae/dino issues.

Don’t be discouraged. I hope this helps!
 
One thing to keep in mind, low nutrients are generally considered a thing of the past. It’s believed that low nutrients are often the cause of algae/dino issues.
this is something i had always wondered about even when i was just getting into the aquarium hobby in general. i always thought to myself, i wonder if it's low because stuff in the tank is actively consuming/converting it. but being new, i just did what everyone does and listened to the majority of information provided because, well...it worked XD
 
I personally prefer Salifert for their ease of use. Red Sea seems to have a good reputation.

That said, during tank cycle I only monitor:
Ammonia
Nitrate
Nitrite
Phosphate
Alkalinity
pH
Calcium
Magnesium

After the tank is established, I cut back to periodic monitoring of:
Alkalinity
Calcium
Magnesium
Nitrate (once in a blue moon)
For pH, I use the probe on my Apex

There has also been discussion that hobby grade Mg tests are generally inaccurate.
 
These days, people get so caught up in the desire to have all of the latest gadgetry, and not just in the aquarium hobby. Years ago, I found a very good book called “Natural Reef Aquariums” by John Tullock. The overarching theme of the book was “more biology, less technology”.

That stuck with me for some reason. There are several people on this forum with decades of experience, and they would probably agree. The more diverse and populated the aquarium, the more successful it will be. We aren’t trying to create a coral incubator per ce. We’re trying to recreate the most natural habitat that we can offer.
 
Hi!
Keeping in mind that this is just MHO:
Three things you need for a great running tank with healthy fish and corals/inverts:
1. A GOOD SKIMMER!
2. A good REACTOR! (put in ROWA PHOS or GFO in it and I GUARANTEE you algae WON'T be an issue in your tank) and
3. A good sump that can hold a good filtrating sock.
As far as flow goes:
Good skimmers from Reef Octopus, a Bulk Reef Reactor and an Eshopps sump are all pretty reasonably priced, you DON'T have to break the bank on ANY of these.
You didn't mention whether you wanted to go strictly fish only, fowler, minimalist, mixed reef or full blown reef. I'd start with fish only with live rock and in time as you get confident, start adding corals (compatible with the fish you have, of course) if a stacked reef tank is your ultimate goal.
A Bulk Reef Gyre is a great power head to start with and it's also reasonably priced.
The above posters are right on the lighting - you DON'T need to spend over twelve hundred bucks on the newest Radions; there are Reef Brite Strips that work great - and they make the tank look sleeker and more streamlined in my view.
My Zoas and mushrooms are going bananas under my Reef Brite strip.
And lastly -
Quarantine your fish, corals and inverts! You can pick up a fish quarantine setup at any local store for short change. Ick wiped an old tank setup I had once. It was horrible. Since getting a newer, larger setup and employing the quarantine procedure, I haven't had an ick (or any other parasite) problem in ten plus years.
If you do this, you will have far fewer fish losses.
Gris is right - Salifert has the best water testing kit line, IMHO.
It might not be a bad idea to have a UV sterilizer handy for the times your tank water is cloudy and you suspect a bacterial bloom, and a hang on the back filter when you need to get rid of a lot of debris really quickly. Just saying. Not a mandatory requirement, though.
Good luck!
 
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I went from this to this in 30 months, that should be some encouragement :)

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