Restoring DIY LED panels

[Fishinbob]

Hey everyone finally getting the tank back up and running and restoring my old DIY Led fixtures from rapid. After gazing upon the Ghl mitra(thanks for the rundown marco) and seeing the adjustability and color I'm going to attempt on a budget to replicate.

Fixture previously had 1:1 rb to cw
With some blue and uv on royal blue string.And red and green on the cool white strings with a few nw in there.
Total of 42 leds per panel. 84 total on 2 dimmers.

I now have 4 channels and option of constant for uv. So 5 channels total per unit. Any suggestions of color placement on strings? My layout thought was

Driver 1: 2 osram 600 red, 2 ww, 4,nw, 4 cw, 2 lime @ 900-1k

Driver 2: 8 blue, 2 cyan, 1 green @ 900-1k

Driver 3: 14 royal blue @ 1200

Driver 4: 4 410-420 uv and 4 420-430 uv and 4-6 royal blues

Alternative layout.

Driver 1: , 4,nw, 8 cw, @ 900-1k

Driver 2: 2 ww, 3 red, 1 green, 2 lime,

Driver 3: 8 blue, 2 cyan, @ 900-1k

Driver 4: 14 royal blue @ 1200

Driver 5: constant non dimmable 8 uv leds (possible 4 rb)

any suggestions on which colors you would essentially prefer to control reds and green or uvs? I know red and greens over power of turned up but I thin ratio wise it should be ok. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

[R_Mc]

I would consider removing the green LEDs from the equation - if possible go for multiple wavelengths of cyan instead (NW leds have plenty of green). I would also focus on high CRI warm white over the inclusion of red LEDs. If you want red to further adjust CCT I'd look into PC amber as this is the recommended LED for CCT tuning.

For placement - just clump clusters together as tightly as you can and focus on good active cooling.

Looks like an awesome build.

 

[zachts]

Ditch Red, Green, Lime, Cyan and whites. Use Vero 10 90CRI whites instead(pick one color, 5k for a more crisp blue look or 4k if you want a little more purple look that brings out a little more of the reflected yellow and reds in fish/coral), covers the broad spectrum of all those others and is nicely color balanced. add a few blues and a violet or two to the vero strings if you want, in order to fill in the spectral gaps of the white channel when it's on by it'self if you want. Added violets in the 420-430 range are always a plus for that extra flourescent pop! Multiple Vero's can be parreleled to get wider coverage off one drive since they are crazy bright with very nice wide coverage.

 

[Jonviviano]

Can I replace Cree cool whites with the vero 10's? I'm using a mean well driver.

 

[zachts]

Can I replace Cree cool whites with the vero 10's? I'm using a mean well driver.

Yes, but not at a 1:1 replacement as you have them wired now(most likely), but you could with some modified wiring. The Vero 10 runs at around 26volts so it effectively replaces 8 single white LEDs on a normal string. You'll have to recalculate things but should not be a problem. 4 running in parrelell on a ELN-60-48 dialed down almost as low as it will go (to somewhere in the ball park of I'd guess 400mA, haven't measured) are more than enough for my 55 gallon.

 

[SoloGarth]

Funny that you bring this up. I just repurposed an old DIY led fixture from rapid.

Changed it into a pendant. Also hooked it up for control by the apex 0-10v outlets. Works well. I have been thinking about swapping out some LEDs as well. Haven't decided yet though.

 

[Fishinbob]

This is a Complete rebuild removed all but 4 leds per heatsink 6x20. All new wiring and driver tuning... I've supplemented in the warm white and neutral which covers the amber spectrum. The few reds and greens are bright but do add some Floescences to certain colors(I run without optics and will more than likely test a diffuser for blending.

My theory was to keep each similar color tempature on a like channel. Does anyone see any need in dimming the uv leds? Rather than the colored leds?
Any suggestions on wiring

 

[zachts]

Run the violets full power, more PAR and flourescent pop without adding all that much visible light.

Without being able to dim the "color" leds seprate from the whites and blues it's going to be a guessing game to get a color you like, plan on swapping some around and fiddling a bit. You really need at least four channels of control to dial in a RGBW array.

A diffuser IMHO would be mandatory unless they are mounted 12" or more above water without optics on the colors and different color whites, otherwise you'll see color banding and "disco" in the shadows and ripples on the sand bed.

but since I take it you already have all the new LEDs, start with wherever you had the CW:RB dialed in at based on percentages. figure each green or cyan plus one red is equal to two whites, don't count the violets, and figure how many blues you need to get close, whites, red, green, on one channel, blues, violets on the other.

Limes are even more tricky to guestimate without dimming them separate, bassically they are a Cool white with so much phosphor that no blue gets out. one of them combined with the other blues will easily negate the effect of at least to royal blues essentially leaving you with the light equivalent of 3 cool whites......give or take a bit.....

 

[Fishinbob]

Run the violets full power, more PAR and flourescent pop without adding all that much visible light.

Without being able to dim the "color" leds seprate from the whites and blues it's going to be a guessing game to get a color you like, plan on swapping some around and fiddling a bit. You really need at least four channels of control to dial in a RGBW array.

A diffuser IMHO would be mandatory unless they are mounted 12" or more above water without optics on the colors and different color whites, otherwise you'll see color banding and "disco" in the shadows and ripples on the sand bed.

but since I take it you already have all the new LEDs, start with wherever you had the CW:RB dialed in at based on percentages. figure each green or cyan plus one red is equal to two whites, don't count the violets, and figure how many blues you need to get close, whites, red, green, on one channel, blues, violets on the other.

Limes are even more tricky to guestimate without dimming them separate, bassically they are a Cool white with so much phosphor that no blue gets out. one of them combined with the other blues will easily negate the effect of at least to royal blues essentially leaving you with the light equivalent of 3 cool whites......give or take a bit.....

Thanks zachts,

I went through your build from a few years back and saw your results. These fixtures are going over a 90 gallon tank 25" deep about 12-14" from top of water.
Plan on running 60 degree optics on blues and royals 80 degree optics on uv and white and no optics on the colors.

Here's a new plan

Channel 1 : 4 nw, 8 cw, @1200

Channel 2 :4 ww, 2-3 red, 2 lime , 1 green @700

Channel 3: 8 blue, 2 cyan @ 900

Channel 4: 14 rb @1200

Channel 5: 8 uv 410-430 constant @700

I can add more rb to the blue string if needed and also to the uv string as well

I enjoyed the colors of my previous build but running whites low added to much yellow so figured removed some and increase the power appreciate the advice please feel free to give more opinions

 

[zachts]

Do you already have the new LEDs or are you still shopping? Either way I've got some more advise for you based on my build and subsequent revisions to it (which I honestly don't remember if I documented, time is just flying by as of late)

 

[Fishinbob]

Yes I already have the leds as I am reusing what leds are good lost a handfull of the whites. Purchased replacement warms and neutral whites some cyans,lime,red, blues, and more uvs.

Made a layout tonight attempting even semi symmetrical patten. With 3 colored clusters.

Recently got to take some time and was introduced to the Ghl mitra system... it's pretty amazing. Granted it has 9 individual adjustable channels but awesome... but utilizes red green several whites yellows blue rb and uvs. Now I have about 1/2 the control ability which is a heck of alot closer than the 2 I had previously. These are all the eln 48d drivers and a pair of constant 700ma for the uvs.

 

[Fishinbob]

Do you already have the new LEDs or are you still shopping? Either way I've got some more advise for you based on my build and subsequent revisions to it (which I honestly don't remember if I documented, time is just flying by as of late)

Yes any advise is welcome are you still running your setup? I know technology has excelled in the past few years as far as leds. But with current investment into the original panels and drivers and low cost to add a few leds.
Total of 60 leds per heatsink
8 48d dimmable drivers
2 700ma constant current drivers

Leds per panel:
8cw
4nw
2ww
3 red
1 green
2 lime
2 cyan
8 blue
18 royal blues
4 420 uvs
4 430 uvs

This is what I've got and willing to adjust slightly but more or less it's at the edge of the budget. Lay it on me any advice is welcome

 

[zachts]

Ch1: 8cw, 2green (or leave them out, they add very little to the look), 2lime, 2cyan
-cold colors (greens and green phosphors)
Ch2: 2red, 4nw, 4ww
-warm colors (reds, and red/yellow phosphors)

CH1 & CH2 will let you find a balance and better tune the overall color temperature of the tank.

Ch3: 14rb
ch4: 4rb, 8blue
Ch5: 8uvs

CH3,4,5 growth. Channels could be combined for control if you had a spare driver to break out the colors more, never found any need to adjust the blues independent and always have just had them full power.

for the layout I would try to cluster the colors and whites into two groups as tight as you can get them and not use any optics, they really aren't needed all the growth comes from the blues/violets and those are the ones you wan't concentrated on your corals.

 

[zachts]

Fixture is still running, not much in the frag tank under it at the moment though, been too busy and it's been very neglected. Had to replace a fan though, in the heat of summer no less, heatsinks got up over 160 F for who knows how long before I noticed, but no harm done as far as I can tell. Cheap fans internal solder connections corroded and shorted out. don't cheap out on the fans!

The colors are still fun to play around with to see what makes what corals fluoresce, but for my display I just went with 5000k veros as the effect of all the colors was essentially the same.

 

[Fishinbob]

Ch1: 8cw, 2green (or leave them out, they add very little to the look), 2lime, 2cyan
-cold colors (greens and green phosphors)
Ch2: 2red, 4nw, 4ww
-warm colors (reds, and red/yellow phosphors)

CH1 & CH2 will let you find a balance and better tune the overall color temperature of the tank.

Ch3: 14rb
ch4: 4rb, 8blue
Ch5: 8uvs

CH3,4,5 growth. Channels could be combined for control if you had a spare driver to break out the colors more, never found any need to adjust the blues independent and always have just had them full power.

for the layout I would try to cluster the colors and whites into two groups as tight as you can get them and not use any optics, they really aren't needed all the growth comes from the blues/violets and those are the ones you wan't concentrated on your corals.

Well you put quite a bit of perspective there for me. That's essentially what I had originally intended. Definitely helped with the layout quite a bit.

I appreciate the feed back I'm going
To switch the limes and cyan locations and alternate the nw and cw locations as well.
Essentially attempting 3 "like" clusters with a mini cluster in between for coverage... I know it's overboard for a 90 but always better to overdo it and dim.
I honestly appreciate the insight. I'm going to start attaching leds then start the arduous task of soldering luckily my gf can help!although I know it will cost me haha
Would you run the blues constant or uv constant? I have a 24d driver and could get another need be but trying to make due with what I have... replacing drivers is and extremely easy task compared to changing leds.

 

[zachts]

uvs on the constant driver. blues can handle more power assuming cree or luxeon not that you will probably need them running full power but gives you a little extra blue light if you need it.

 

[Fishinbob]

I also run 2 t5 HO colors were
blue+ and 420 atinic. I'll have to play with bulbs one I finish the fixtures.
Also I know I'll need fans as I ran passive ventilation in the canopy .I've cut 4 hole to accommodate 4 120mm fans on top of the canopy, that being said for optimal ventilation should I add fans to evacuate air from the canopy or place the fans under the hole and push air into the heat sinks? Noticed the temp increase with the t5s added!

 

[zachts]

Best to push air into the canopy. Helps keep from pulling moist salty air into and near the electronics.

 

[Fishinbob]

Well wired and tested one panel burnt one led out of 120 so far so pleased with that.
Wired a cw white/nw 10pcs
Red/ww/cyan/lime green string 10 pcs
Cool blue string 10 pcs
Royal blue string 20 pcs
Uv 410 & 430string 10 pcs
I'm going to add 80 optics to all Ledas besides the colored ones tank is 24" I'd rather have decent blending at a higher power than shadowing and or banding opinions?


Uvs and rb
all colors



All on

 

[pelochas]

Im restoring my led lights too. Tagging along. I had all diy drivers and power supplies. Im looking to replace the diy drivers. Keeping the aluminum heatsinks, old cree leds, and two power supplies.