ridiculous ich outbreak!! need help

ReeFreak1 said:
Tank transfer is way too stressful on fish let alone having three trangs in a small 20 gallon QT. If your fish is too stressed, chances are they are not gonna make it. I have had great success with hyposalinity. It increases the amount of oxygen in the water so the fish is less stressed. It also requires no poisonous copper, which also prevents the extra stress. It helps the fish fight off disease by preserving the fish energy spent towards salt exertion.

You need to have a refractometer and drop the salinity down by adding fresh water until you get to 1.09 over the course of a couple of days. It would be better to drop over longer time, but in your case a rapid drop is required or the fish aren't going to make it. monitor the ammonia and keep under control. Once all signs of ick are gone and your fish seem healthy (this usually takes about a week), continue hypo for 4-6 weeks.
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Absolutely do not start TTM when a fish has not eaten well. 12 more days of disturbance may lead to death later. Ich is not the only cause of death; many pathogens are in balance with the fish and when a fishh is weakened they will take over, internal bacteria, internal fungus, internal parasites.

The first thing fish need is recovery from poor nutrition from capture and transport.

TTM should not be the primary means for eradication of ich, IMO.

Some fish can easily handle TTM. Some fish eat well quickly even when handled and seldom get bacterial infection. Many don't and are poor candidates for TTM.
 
So what's really the best course of action here? I have plenty of cycled live rock in my DT.
Is grabbing a 20 long or 29 and setting up a copper qt the best option here? I can use some rocks from DT for QT.
When the fish are removed from DT and there is nothing in there the ich will die off by itself cuz there are no hosts?
 
Reefer07 said:
So what's really the best course of action here? I have plenty of cycled live rock in my DT.
Is grabbing a 20 long or 29 and setting up a copper qt the best option here? I can use some rocks from DT for QT.
When the fish are removed from DT and there is nothing in there the ich will die off by itself cuz there are no hosts?
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If the cycled rock do not have much encrusted lives to die off and pollute, you can use hypo in QT with some rock. If die off is not heavy, you can use Prime or Amquel. When you use such products, you have to consider drug interactions.

Likely a two stage approach is better.

To allow a DT to fallow for 12 weeks, very well cycled medium to support the fish is practically necessary.

Stage one is to prevent death for ich or ammonia or poor nutrition, without the aim of eradication.

Stage two is to eradicate ich when medium for QT is cycled after about 4 weeks.



I always have a lot of robustly cycled medium standing by, well fed with ammonia, for about six months after the last addition to DT. The bacteria is at least 10x more than enough for all fish.
 
Kinda lost ya there.....i have 120 lbs of LR in my tank. 60 of it was fresh base and 60 was deeply cycled LR. Deep meaning been in someone elses tank for quite some time. Completely covered in dark coraline algae.
Since this is a FO tank the only thing really holding me back from doing copper is the rock. Down the road I would like to have the possibility of using this stuff for a reef. And that's a good amount of rock to soil with copper.

So I just got home. Turned my lights on, fish were already out swimming. The ick spots on my bass let are already completely gone.....in one day. The tang is not any better nor any worse. He is still eating like a beast and no flashing or anything. Appears to be very happy. And now he is eatin seaweed off the veggie clip for the first time.
 
If you use hypo likely the algae on the rock will die and pollute. You should wash away as much algae as possible before using the cycled rock in QT.

Rock cycled must have kept maintaining bioload in order to be active, as least not too long ago.
 
ridiculous ich outbreak!! need help

Interesting following this thread and all the ideas and experiences of what works and what doesn't. I guess every situation is different. I have 2 tangs a yellow and blue hippo. Both went through the ich crap and all I did was make sure they were In qt with a cleaner wrasse and a skunk cleaner shrimp. Took 3 weeks of healthy feeding and they did fine. Never have an episode since. The shrimp and wrasse are now in my DT. With no symptoms. This episode happened last spring. Keep in mind this was my experience and choice of actions. It's not guaranteed to work for everyone. Now I'm just more preventative.
 
reeferstace said:
It's not guaranteed to work for anyone. Cleaner wrasses and cleaner shrimp do nothing to eradicate Cryptocaryon.
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This. First, assays of the stomach do not show that either will consume ich or most other parasites (there is an exception but it would not be relevant). Second, ich is below the skin and not reachable by either.
 
I agree with scag101. Put a few cleaner wrasses in there and they will absolutely eradicate the ich; that's what they do in the wild. It is the best and most natural solution for ich. The cleaner shrimps are not as efficient in my experience.
 
In a closed system, (which all our tanks are no matter how large) a cleaner wrasse, shrimp or even a magic cure will not eradicate ich. Please anyone not sure read the sticky on ich at the beginning of the disease tread.
 
sreefs said:
In a closed system, (which all our tanks are no matter how large) a cleaner wrasse, shrimp or even a magic cure will not eradicate ich. Please anyone not sure read the sticky on ich at the beginning of the disease tread.
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Correct. Using a cleaner wrasse to try and control/eradicate ich is an effort in futility. Ich is below the skin, cleaner wrasses do not eat ich.
 
if anyone is still interested.... my fish are all doing a lot better so i'm going to continue with tank transfer since it's not possible to be marine velvet.....
 
@snorvich. I'm going to take a guess and say I don't have marine velvet? Because all of my fish are eating and doing fine after a couple tank transfers? I haven't noticed any new spots so I will count this as day one and continue to do transfers until the 12 days are up. Then observe
 
Reefer22153 said:
I agree with scag101. Put a few cleaner wrasses in there and they will absolutely eradicate the ich; that's what they do in the wild. It is the best and most natural solution for ich. The cleaner shrimps are not as efficient in my experience.
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I'm going to severely disagree. Ich Is under the skin of a fish. I cleaner wrasse will not rip the skin of a fish, only clean the surface
 
Zacktosterone said:
I'm going to severely disagree. Ich Is under the skin of a fish. I cleaner wrasse will not rip the skin of a fish, only clean the surface
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Ich is caused by the protozoan ICHTHYOPTHIRIUS, which is an ectoparasite. ECTOparasite means external parasite as opposed to ENDOparasite which you suggested.

I'm assuming you have never witnessed cleaner wrasses go to work on ich.
 
Reefer22153 said:
Ich is caused by the protozoan ICHTHYOPTHIRIUS, which is an ectoparasite. ECTOparasite means external parasite as opposed to ENDOparasite which you suggested.

I'm assuming you have never witnessed cleaner wrasses go to work on ich.
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Ever try to pull ich off of a dead fish? I googled it. Because I don't understand a majority of the words you used. Its under the skin. I think snorvich told me that
 
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