Rkl - pc4?

scottkel

scottkel

Member
Quick question. I just ordered a RKL Plus and it will come with 2 PC4 modules. If I want to add an additional PC4, do I need anything else?

Scott
 
Andywe I think is only one that use reefkeeper controller in the club. I maybe wrong.
Just shoot him a pm.
 
you are limited to 4 modules and a pc4 counts so if you are running 2 pc4, a net module and a sl1, you are maxed. If you do not want to use myreef or get a net module, you are fine to just get another pc4.
 
I will if I cant find the answers... This is what I have and am trying to figure out the best system config...

Lighting
• 250w MH - 14K
• 250w MH - 14K
• 250w MH - 14K
• 2-T5HO 54w 10K
• 2-T5HO 54w Actinics
• Moonlights

Flow
• Main return pump (not on RKL - never shuts off)
• Hydor Evo 1400
• Hydor Evo 1400
• Hydor Evo 1400
• Hydor Evo 1400

Filtration
• Protein Skimmer
• UV Sterilizer
• Phosphate Reactor (not on RKL - just a small pump)

Other Equipment
• Heater
 
Ok..with a Plus you have only 1 more module you can add. If you have a net module then that makes 4...

Rule of thumb for planning:

Each PC4 can pull a total of 15 amps.

Sockets 1 and 4 on a PC4 are mechanical relays - they have a limit of up to 8 amps each socket (d0n;t exceed the total PC4 limit of 15 amps)

Sockets 2 and 3 are electronic relays - they have a limit of 3 amps.

So in planning, calculate your load and combine like timed items (ie lights, pumps, ect).

calculation is easy and use this as a guide.

Amps x volts = Watts.

SO take a 150w heater, and assume 115 for you voltage. Always best to take the house average even though it may vary a few volts.

A 150W heater divided 120v = 1.3 amps

Your MH lights are around 2.2 amps each so you could gang them on Socket 1 or 4 of a PC4 if you wish.
Your Koralias are all 6w so negligeable. approx 1/10 amp each Gang 2 and 2 if your going to use the wavemaker function.
Yor T5's are approx 1/2 each..negligeable there too.

Return pump and Protein skimmer on their own socket. This allows you to use the standby modes for feeding and maintenance and set independant controls.

Heater on it's own socket so you can program the temp ranges. For the heater, if it has a thermostat, set the thermo stat a degree or 2 higher than what you want your upper limit of temp to be...then prgram the RKL for your optimal range...this way if for some weird reason the RKL had issue, the thermo on the heater acts as a small backup assurance.



Hope this helps.
 
Last edited:
i use the RKE... i have two of them... just sold a RKL... not sure wht the plus has extra... however... i know the RKL is limted to 4 modules...(1) head unit (2) pc-4 (3) pc-4 (4) whatever else you want to run... probably sl1 or sl2.... i know there is a rumor that you can only run 2 MH on a single pc-4... it is false... thats only the case if youre using 400W MH... it seems that your using 250W... so according to DA... you can run all 4 channels on the PC-4 with 250W MH.... i do know this... being a DA user myself... DA has its pros and cons jus like the others... DA customer service is pretty good... just call them directly... they will help you... i would highly recomend that possibly you could do a little more reading before you "open" the RKL or any other controller to be sure it will do what you would like.... just food for thought... :) you can google digital aquatics... their # is listed publicly.../ just press the technical option.... hope that helps.

-mel
 
Guys - here is what I am thinking - thoughts?
picture.php

Scott
 
Ok,

that is a little ahrd to follow, but from what I see you look good and still have a socket to spare :-)

WHy though, are you not having your heater and return pump on the PC4 and utilize the temp probe to regulate your temp (most accurate imo).
 
I didnt see the heater on that Diagram.

and it seems to me you are putting the Halies on a 15 minute delay from each other. is that for dusk/dawn rise in east set in west?

If it were me, I would combine the halides up or the t-5 up and plug the heater and the return pump in the controller. that way you can do the feeding time thing, and the heater is controlled by the controller not the heater thermostat which WILL fail IMO. I have seen too many do that. I dont have a controller, except for the temp.
 
Guys - I agree - I forgot the heater in the last one - here is the same with the heater added to PC4 Ch3.
picture.php

pickupman66 - the 15 min delay is for a dusk to dawn - more visual than anything else I guess. I also did an option 3 that shows adding an additional PC4.
picture.php


Whats the feeding time thing? Do all of the pumps stop?

Scott
 
Your 250 w mh are fine on one. I run them that way myself...just don' t exceed amp limits. 3x250 is a smudge above 6 amps.
 
Another questions - just for your thoughts...

I have a 180g 6' long tank. I have 4 Hydor 1400's. The wavemaker will be setup with 2 on and 2 off / then switch.

Should I just put 2 on each end and alternate the "sides" being on?

Should I put one on each end and 2 on the back and alternate from sides to back?

Should I have 2 on one end and one on the other and one on the back and alternate those somehow?

Any thoughts?

Scott
 
I would change out the two 10k T5's for two more actinics but thats just me. You have plenty of light with the MH already. Sounds like a nice set up.
 
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