RO/DI advice

I thought about getting that one, too. Sounds like a good deal. . .
but the reason its so low in price is because it doesn't use standard size filters. You have to order the filters from them and they wear out really quick. The DI cartridge doesn't use resin that you can replace yourself either. Other than the high maintenance, it seems okay.

But check out this one on Ebay. It's the one I decided to get after comparing it and the $60 one. 110GPD 6-Stage, $130 shipped. Plus it comes with a guarantee:

http://cgi.ebay.com/AQUARIUM-2-110G...8QQihZ018QQcategoryZ20756QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
 
Both are good units personally I would go for the first one, thats what I am using now and have been happy using it, a couple of other people on here uses that one as well cant go wrong with either but the more stages the better :), nashville water for the most part is not that bad so there is no need to spend for a high dollar/High End Unit unit. The fact of the matter is 0 tds is 0 tds I dont care if you spend $100.00 or $500.00, personally I would rather spend the lesser of the two and achieve the same results :)
 
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I'm no expert on RO/DI, but there are a few drawbacks with the ebay units.

1) They don't use high quality RO membranes. The Dow FilmTec membranes (75 gpd) are ones that work efficiently at normal household water pressures and get filter 98% of the gunk. The importance of this is it keeps less stuff from getting to the DI chamber which extends the life of the DI resin (the most frequently replaced part).

2) They typically don't use full sized vertical DI canisters, so the DI resin isn't used efficiently.

I have a Typhoon I unit from http://www.airwaterice.com ($159) and if you tell them you are from reef central I think they give you a freebee of some type -- maybe a TDS meter, but I'm not sure. You could ask them. The Typhoon III comes with a TDS meter, I think.

Anyway, the Ebay units and the "better" units all should produce 0 TDS water after the DI stage, so whatever you choose should make good water. The difference will be with ongoing maintenance costs.

Jack
 
for those prices you may want to check out the ones at http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/ . they ahve good prices and top notch stuff. refillable Di resin. you should go withone with clear housings to be able to more easily monitor your filters. also, go with the highest gpd you can as the 75gpd is SLOW!!! I purchased just an add on di system from them. shipping was great and he made sure I got all the fittings I needed. you can also buy fittings from lowes. I do also recommend a flush system.

the top one on this page should be great for ya.

http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/showproducts.asp?Category=168&Sub=166
 
I'm an airwaterice.com fan, but have heard only good things about buckeyefieldsupply, too. I cobbled mine together from several old units, so mine is a mutt...
 
Just so that you know, the 75 gpd is 98%, while the 100 gpd is only 90% -- so more "gunk" gets through with the higher gpd rates. I have mine running to a plastic storage container on a float valve, so I always have plenty of RO/DI and don't have to worry about how fast it is.

Bukeyefieldsupply sells the same types of membranes as they do at airwaterice (Dow Filmtec) and good quality parts, so buying from them should be fine as well...

Jack
 
Yea gary, mine is a Mutt as well. got the ro and Di housings and membranes form Buckeye, and the carbon and micron filters along with a UV sterilizer from a system from another reefer. he thought it was ro system, but it was not. just a water purifier. bought all fittings from Lowes and made my own flush system with lowes fittings using the pic off buckeye.

Buckeye has great tech support. I have a bit of an issue with mine allowing water thru the Ro membrane into the Di even when flush valve is open. TDS meter will arrive this week to check it out.

Just a side note on the previous thread about the Membrane's effectiveness. the Ro membrane is really the workhorse of the system as far as the filtration. it should take out in the 90-98% of the bad stuff, the Di then removes the rest. the less effective your RO is, the quicker your Di resin will wear out. Color changing resin is good bacause it gives you a visual on when you need to replace the resin.
 
bruffin

bruffin

?
Each of those systems use market standard 10 inch filters:)

The ebay system and ours. Who told you that?
 
That doesn't say whether or not it uses Dow Filmtec membranes. A 75 gpd that isn't Dow Filmtec won't work as well at normal household pressures (~40 psi). You could contact them and find out. It looks like it uses all standard sizes, and full sized vertical DI so that is a plus. It doesn't look like it comes with an auto shutoff valve, nor does it come with a float valve (handy for filling the 5 gallon jug and keeping it full :) ). It is from an ebay vendor who may be around tomorrow, but may not. The other thing is the $159 Typhoon 1 from airwaterice uses an extra section that has a 10micron filter. This keeps larger pieces of junk out of the carbon filters and keeps the first filter from clogging and leaving the rest not to work. The one linked looks like it has all 1 micron blocks.

So in my mind, the difference between that and the slightly more expensive (but comes with more) Typhoon is in favor of the typhoon. When all is said and done, however, you should still end up with 0 TDS after the DI stage -- so go with what you think makes the most sense for you and your budget. The one you link can at least be brought up to the same level as the others in the future when you start to replace filters.

RE how long it takes to fill a 5 gallon jug -- that depends on the water temp and your pressure. I have a 75gpd Typhoon and it takes about an hour to make 3 gallons (which is right at about 75 gallons/24 hours). A 100 gpd which wouldn't filter as much stuff prior to the DI stage would do about 4 gallons per hour. If you drill a hole in the top of the bucket and install a float valve, then you'll always have a nice full bucket. I did that and put a bulkhead with spigot on the bottom of the bucket so I just take what I need. I started off with a 7 gallon "paint" bucket, until I got Reewik's 30 gallon container. 30 gallons at the ready has been very nice :)

Sorry for the long post. HTH

Jack
 
Oh just sacrifice the guest bathtub to the cause like me;). I have a 37 gallon rubbermaid tote in the bathtub with a float valve and auto shutoff. That along with two other 37 gallon tubs on dolleys for mixed and fresh water, and you're set...
 
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