RO/DI and ATO long run automation help

[Trollicus]

Plumbing is not my strong suit as I have an electrical background so any help here is appreciated. See attached picture for current setup and somewhat proposed sketch.

Background
My water supply and RO/DI are located at the opposite corner of my basement from my tank. Currently, I turn on my RO/DI, let it run, turn off when done, and wheel the 30gal brute over to my tank, then put my ATO pump inside and let it run for a week or two until depleted and I repeat the process.

Goal
* RO/DI water turns on from supply automatically when reservoir is low
* Reservoir automatically feeds top off water to sump when low via ATO.

Current Equipment and info
* Spectrapure 90GPD RO/DI system w/ approx input of 45PSI and 110TDS average.
* AutoAqua Smart ATO

Questions/Concerns
* I understand that running the RO/DI direct to the sump is a bad idea and even adding the reservoir in-between may not be recommended if fully automated, but I'm looking to add in multiple fail safes.
* My house PSI is at the lower end, so I'm not sure if a booster pump is needed, but I haven't had any issues with filling the reservoir manually as of yet.
* How to get water from the reservoir to sump over 50' away?
* What fail safes are required (looking for specific recommendations if possible)


My Thoughts
I like the AutoAqua and don't want to get rid of it. However, both the included pump and the cord length aren't made for what I'm trying to accomplish. I can replace the pump with this solenoid it looks like - http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/smart-ato-rodi-solenoid-autoaqua.html - but I'm assuming I would need some sort of pump upstream and not sure what is needed. Additionally, I would only want the pump to run when necessary.

For the RO/DI to the reservoir, I'm thinking I would need something like this - http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/auto-shut-off-kit-for-reverse-osmosis-systems.html - but am still concerned about leaving the water running and the RO/DI unit leaking from constant pressure.

I'm sure there is something else I'm missing - does the standard 1/4" tubing work with lengths this long or should I upgrade it to 3/8" tubing or larger?

Adding in a secondary float valve for the sump in case the AutoAqua failed (although in my experience with the AutoAqua it has never run over when full but occasionally thinks it is full when water is needed.

Maybe I'm over-simplifying but this diagram appears to be what I'm trying to accomplish with the exception of adding in the reservoir in-between.

 

[Vinny Kreyling]

There should be enough pressure right out of the RO unit to reservoir if the pressure is there. Try it just use RO tubing, 1/4" is fine.
Set the container up with a float valve to shut off, use a heater if needed.
When I worked maintenance we left the RO units on all the time so we would have water the next time we came.

 

[MJNTWise]

Do you have a controller????? I ran 1/4 tubing about 50 ft fr my ato...

 

[n2585722]

Avast Marine has a barrel tender that is for this specific use. When storage container is low it turns on flow to container until it is full. You would just need a storage container (brute trash can) and a ATO. Do not hook the output of the RODI to the sump. If for some reason there is a failure you could overfill the tank with DI water. The other is RODI units do not work well making small amounts of water. The TDS is high in the first gallon or so of water.

 

[Trollicus]

Do you have a controller????? I ran 1/4 tubing about 50 ft fr my ato...

Only the AutoAqua Smart ATO controller - no Neptune or anything similar.

Avast Marine has a barrel tender that is for this specific use. When storage container is low it turns on flow to container until it is full. You would just need a storage container (brute trash can) and a ATO. Do not hook the output of the RODI to the sump. If for some reason there is a failure you could overfill the tank with DI water. The other is RODI units do not work well making small amounts of water. The TDS is high in the first gallon or so of water.

Ah very cool, seems to be at least part of what I'm looking for. Just picked one up and will see how it works, thanks!

 

[Windy2]

The most reliable way to control RODI water is with a float valve. If all you run through them is RO water they will not buildup and fail. I have been running one in my basement sump since 1998. Electrical sensors and switches will fail long before the float valve. I run 1/4" tubing to a pressure tank for drinking water. Then I run from the pressure tank to a 1/4" tubing that goes into my fish room 40' away. It then splits and on line goes to the sump and the other goes to an RODI storage drum.
As for the TDS spike when starting an RO unit, it doesn't build up if you use water continually. My system is all open and has about 500 gal. I use between 5-10 gal a day for makeup and about the same for drinking water. My TDS in to the RO unit is 27 and out is 0. I still use a DI unit after that, but its probably overkill.

 

[n2585722]

I do use a float valve on the DI fill in the storage container, but it is only there incase of a electronics failure. I use my Archon with 2 float switches and a solenoid to fill the container when it gets low and it stops when full. The Avast Marine barrel tender will accomplish the same thing without using a controller. It does not use float switches. Instead it uses pressure sensors for water level detection.

 

[Trollicus]

The most reliable way to control RODI water is with a float valve. If all you run through them is RO water they will not buildup and fail. I have been running one in my basement sump since 1998. Electrical sensors and switches will fail long before the float valve. I run 1/4" tubing to a pressure tank for drinking water. Then I run from the pressure tank to a 1/4" tubing that goes into my fish room 40' away. It then splits and on line goes to the sump and the other goes to an RODI storage drum.
As for the TDS spike when starting an RO unit, it doesn't build up if you use water continually. My system is all open and has about 500 gal. I use between 5-10 gal a day for makeup and about the same for drinking water. My TDS in to the RO unit is 27 and out is 0. I still use a DI unit after that, but its probably overkill.

Does the 40' run you have require an additional pump?

 

[n2585722]

The water from the RODI is pressurized that should not be a problem. If fact my ATO pump is in my garage which is 35ft from the tank. It pumps up through the attic and then down the wall. It does this without issue using 1/4" tubing.

 

[Windy2]

Does the 40' run you have require an additional pump?

No.