RO/DI Filter Replacements???

bustayanky

Active member
Hey yall, I was wondering if anyone knew somewhere i can get refills for my RO/DI unit. I don't have a model # or anything. It has 3 canisters and the DI unit. Is there a cheap website you guys buy it from or do you just go to Home Depot. Thanks in advance.

Will
 
I bought my unit from AW&I and have bought replacement filters and resin from both them and Buckeye Field Supply. Get product and service from both!
 
So which one should i be buying? This is my first time buying it to use for my top off water. I just had a guy run a line to my room, so i wanted to make sure i buy the right ones. There were sediment filters and carbon filters. How many of each? And for the resin or something which one also. Thanks guys
 
reefgeek is cheaper than those guys and they are local...
 
Last edited:
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9474256#post9474256 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bustayanky
So which one should i be buying? This is my first time buying it to use for my top off water. I just had a guy run a line to my room, so i wanted to make sure i buy the right ones. There were sediment filters and carbon filters. How many of each? And for the resin or something which one also. Thanks guys
My recomendation will be a 75 gpd unit with a sediment filter of 1 micron or less, a minimum of one carbon block filter (if your water contains chloramine instead or chlorine you need a second carbon filter special to better break apart the chloramine), 75 gpd Filmtec membrane and one DI cartridge mixed bed resin 10 inches vertical.
As accesories I would recommend a float valve, a pressure gauge and an autoshut off valve as a minimum plus the means to connect it to the water line and to a drain. You will also need a TDS meter to measure the purity of the water and to determine if it is working properly and to better know when to replace the filters. Finally if the water pressure in your home is less than 50 psi you may need a booster pump for the unit to work properly.
 
0 ppm is what it should be after RODI, after the RO side, before the DI, it normally is around 2-5ppm depending on your water going in..
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9477340#post9477340 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bustayanky
very good info. And for the TDS meter what's a good reading?
The TDS will help to measure two things, the quality of your water which if the unit has a DI cartridge the reading shall be zero as mentioned above and the DI carridge or resin shall be replaced when the reading is 1 to 2 ppm.
It is also useful to test the performance of the membrane by measuring the rejection rate.
Filmtec membranes of 75 gal/day or less when new shall have about 98% rejection rate and replaced when their rejection has fallen to the 90-93% range.
The rejection rate is calculated using the TDS at the input of the membrane TDSin (After the carbon filter) and comparing it to the TDS read in the product line after the membrane before the DI cartridge TDSout

%rejection = (TDSin - TDSout) x 100 / TDSin

so if the reading at the inlet is 230 ppm and at the output is 12 ppm that membrane has a rejection of 94.8% (230-12)x100/230

The TFC membranes are very sensitive to chlorine and get damaged by it so you need to insure that your carbon filter is removing all of it. To do so you will need a chlorine test kit (There are some very economical that use tables) to regularly test the water comming out of the carbon filter before the membrane. At the moment you detect any chlorine traces the carbon filter needs to be replaced.
Finally the sediment filter has to be repaced when the pressure drop between the tap and the membrane is 10 to 15 psi which indicate the filter is getting pluged with dirt.
 
If you want economical:

Sam's club sells a multi-pack of replacement filters:
2 x 10-micron sediment filters
4 x 5-micron carbon block filters
(enough for 2 complete filter changes, except for DI)
~$30

The disadvantage with this is you don't get the "progressive filtration" that many water gurus recommend:
10-micron sediment
5-micron 1st carbon block
1-micron 2nd carbon block

and, you still have to buy the DI somewhere
 
I'm still confused on what is what you know. I have 3 canisters on the bottom. Then on top I have 1 canister and 2 small ones. Can you someone explain each one for me? Sorry I'm being quite the newb about this, but i just want to get the right thing for each.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9484360#post9484360 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bustayanky
I'm still confused on what is what you know. I have 3 canisters on the bottom. Then on top I have 1 canister and 2 small ones. Can you someone explain each one for me? Sorry I'm being quite the newb about this, but i just want to get the right thing for each.

Oh, what you have then is a horizontal DI. That you will have order online. Just go to the site where you bought your unit.
that would be the easiest

The bottom canisters are:
1) Sediment Filter (stage 1)
2) 1st Carbon block filter (stage 2)
3) 2nd Carbon block filter (stage 3)

On top components are:
4) RO Membrane (stage 4)
5) Horizonatal DI (stage 5)
6) "polishing filter" (stage 6)

the last filter is nothing more than the cheap "weanie filter" like they put on refridgerator ice-makers. The main reason they put the weanie filters on RO/DI units is to filter out any "bad" tastes derived from water sitting in the storage tank (if you have one) for any significant amount of time. The inside of these storage tanks have a rubber bladder that can leach a slight funky taste into the water if it sits stagnant for a few days.
 
Last edited:
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9484360#post9484360 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bustayanky
I'm still confused on what is what you know. I have 3 canisters on the bottom. Then on top I have 1 canister and 2 small ones. Can you someone explain each one for me? Sorry I'm being quite the newb about this, but i just want to get the right thing for each.
There are many arrangements, a picture with a manufacturer name and model sure can help.
If I had to guess I would say the canisters at the bottom are one sediment filter and two carbon filters, the large horizontal canister on top contains the membrane that does not need replacement unless has been sitting dry without use for a long time and the two little horizontal canisters on top might be one DI resin for RO/DI production anf the other could be either activated carbon as a polishing filter for drinking water or just a second DI resin unit to increase the DI capacity.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9480861#post9480861 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bustayanky
These filter replacements are quite pricey though huh? Wow I didn't even know that it would be as much as it is.


These units give you near-Laboratory-Grade water for entire year (depending on use) for a mere $50 or so in filters.
Do you have any idea what it would cost you in Sparkletts or Arrowhead, etc. water for the same capacity?
(RO/DI water is much more pure by-the-way)
and that's not counting the effort of having to haul water from the supermarket, water store, etc.

It's by far the best bargain that you'll find in this hobby! ;)

suggestion:
Set up your unit for drinking water too, to maximize its utility
 
Back
Top