RO/DI meltdown

Should specify, that the check valve is going the correct way and the only adjustable thing on the whole machine is that valve on the yellow line.
 
I had something similar happen to me. Turned out my DI cartridge was upside down. The water could not flow through it and ended up going out the waste. Check each of your cartridges and make sure they are right side up. HTH
 
The DI cartridges all have arrows and the arrows are all pointing the correct way...The issue seems to be with the membrane, as I can take the DI parts right off and flow is still the same.. Hmmm
 
I would try to put a piece of tubing from the filters to the input to the RO bypassing the Auto Shutoff Valve. Then test water output straight from the output of the RO membrane housing before the Auto Shutoff Valve. This will eliminate the ASV and also the DI canisters. Aquasafe Canada has a website and email. Try them if it still doesn't work.
 
So frustrated with this machine!!!

It works for like 30 seconds then stops. Then it bubbles. Grrr... Very close to just ordering a new machine...
 
it does appear that you have an adjustable flow restrictor (that bras thing). try turning the bras screw so that much less water comes out that line. this will force more water to go through the membrane. the ratio of bad to good water should be like 4/1.

If that doesn't do it, you really need to know how much water pressure you are dealing with. It really does need to be 40 psi or more.
 
We have a water pressure meter on the main line for the house. It's reading 65 (I think) PSI. The RO is hooked up right to this main line (Im not sure if pressure would be lost or not?)

I did turn the water down so that either no or very little water is going out the waste. Do I need to wait a certain amount of time before I see water? I've left it on forever and the most I managed to make was about 3/4 of a gallon the other night. However I couldn't get anything out of it tonight... But yes.. I am thinking of burning it.. Which is a sin, because the unit is basically new...
 
Have you tried to have it running while taking it apart starting from discharge to the supply? To see where all the water is going.. Maybe the RO membrane is defective and not letting water thru..
 
Is there a way to "break" te membrane? It was working before I got my paws on it... If we switch the elbows around on the membrane housing we can get the water to come through the membrane just fine... But it's like just steaming out and not doing its job.
 
Where do I find this check valve? The check valve in behind (white one) works as we tested it. Unless there is another one built into the housing? These things should be way more simpler for airheads like me... All I wanna do is keep fish darnit!
 
I am confused after reading this? Doesn't the place you bought it from have a warranty or a service department that can fix your problem? Typically it comes assembled?
 
Where do I find this check valve? The check valve in behind (white one) works as we tested it. Unless there is another one built into the housing? These things should be way more simpler for airheads like me... All I wanna do is keep fish darnit!

the check valve I am talking about is in the elbow that comes out of the middle of the membrane houseing. if you take out that elbow and look inside you should see a type of metal that is the check valve.


BFS-243 Check valve elbow quick connect - $5.50
http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/showproducts.asp?Category=189&Sub=133
 
Carrie - we'd be more than happy to help you get the system running. Please give us a call when you are infront of the system.

Take comfort - you're far from the first person who bought a cut-rate system and had troubles!

Russ
513-312-2343
 
Thank you for the offer to help!

I don't know what I did but I am now getting a steady 1 drop per 3 seconds.

It seems to be getting faster... magic?
 
Oh yes - it is definitely very slow. I took it all apart again and now it's in pieces. I am done with it for today.. lol

Should the DI canisters be full of water or always kind of dry looking?? the little beads are all wet but the canisters are never full of water...
 
It depends upon how they are positioned. Remember that DI cartridges are not suppossed to be horizontal. Horizontal DI housings are a design intended to minimize the original cost of the system - you should be prepared for the tradeoffs. Horizontal DI units typically contain 8 oz. to 16 oz. of resin. Typical vertical DI cartridges contain 20 oz of resin. Obviously the more resin contained in the housing the longer it will last and the better treatment it will provide.

Some horizontal DI housings are not refillable - you'll therefore have to pay for a new housing every time you need to replace the DI resin. The cost of repeatedly replacing the horizontal housing will far outweigh any money saved up-front in purchasing the unit.

Perhaps most importantly, horizontal DI housings are a less than ideal arrangement for water treatment. DI resin beds shrink through normal use over their life span. You'll note that a cartridge that was full when new can sometimes have a ¼ inch of empty space in it when fully expended. When DI resin settles in a horizontal housing, it leaves a pathway (of least resistance) along the top of the housing where water can flow while coming into minimal contact with the DI resin.

You’ll note that the output from the DI housing is at the center of the end of the housing. Depending upon how your system is configured, RO water may enter the DI housing in port, fill up the housing until the water level reaches the out port (i.e., fill up the bottom half of housing), and then exit the DI housing. Your RO water has been in contact only with half the resin in the housing.

So, bottom line - you might want to get a DI Add On Kit with a refillable, full size, vertical DI cartridge, or orient each of your existing DI cartridges vertically with bottom-up flow. To do this you might want to get three clips, and some extra tubing.

25clip.jpg


To make sure you get the right clip measure the outside diameter of your DI tubes - they are likely 2.5" or 2" .

Russ
 
Back
Top