RO/DI Question

[saltydogg21]

Just received my RO/DI 4 stage and set it up... Its been running for about 1/2 hr and my TDS reading is 23ppm and hasn't gotton any lower is that normal? the before reading is 280ppm I think.... Also should the carbon tube be completely filled or is it like a trickle filter...

 

[GrampaDon]

There are others a lot better qualified to respond here. But im curious as well.

So I looked at Buckeye Field Supply's FAQ ,And nothing about your problem.
However you can give it more time to reach max potential [like maybe another hour] It might just need to seat better and flush itself out.

PS. BFS is where I got my 5 stage unit. And it ran fine after install ,and each time I change filters. [2 RO changes and inbetween prefilter/carbon changes.]

 

[saltydogg21]

I have no clue, I have a Baracuda 100gpd 4 stage...

 

[saltydogg21]

Still not a zero tds

 

[disc1]

You may have a leak around your membrane. Check to see that it is properly seated and the gasket is making a good seal. The carbon block should fill all the way up. Not sure if the two problems are related. The only one that doesn't always fill all the way up is the DI.

 

[movado]

The carbon should fill up all the way. Where are you reading the TDS? After the RO membrame or after the DI cartridge. Try flushing the RO mebrane if you have a flush valve bypass. You also may want to discard the first few hours of water as new membrames tend have a bacteria to keep it from fouling.

 

[saltydogg21]

The TDS was somewhere in the middle, I moved it to the clean out... So now it comes out of the last Cyl ( which is the carbon) to TDS meter then the blue tubing to bucket, And it looks like the carbon is slowly filling up.

 

[movado]

Something doesn't seem right with the set-up. It should go something like

tap water -> sediment filter -> carbon filter -> RO membrane -> DI cartridge

Is this the way it's flowing?

 

[James77]

You can purge any of the housings of air by unscrewing it enough to let the air escape, and retighten it as soon as it starts seeping out the top.......

 

[aquaman67]

What RO unit do you have (brand) and where did you get it?

Also, how are you testing the TDS?

If you are using a hand held meter and a plastic cup, don't.

You need to use a very clean and well rinsed glass.

 

[saltydogg21]

It's a Aqua FX Barracuda 4 stage 100gph.... its setup like this main Feed line from house to TDS in.. Out from TDS in to Sediment then to Carbon then looks like RO (top horizontal canister) Pressure gauge somewhere either before or after RO ....... then DI and last out to TDS out... I was mistaken on one thing it isnt the Carbon that isnt filling all the way up its the DI filter that isnt. I changed the TDS out because it was comming off of the RO filter the one on top and put it after the DI and now I am reading 0TDS.... Does this sound right? Also is the DI filter suppose to be full or no? Its about 1/4 full with water trickle.

 

[disc1]

The DI stage will often run like that. It is perfectly normal. If it bothers you, just crack open the cylinder and let the air purge out. When it fill all the way up, tighten it back down.

 

[movado]

The set-up sounds right. You should be good to go.

It's a Aqua FX Barracuda 4 stage 100gph.... its setup like this main Feed line from house to TDS in.. Out from TDS in to Sediment then to Carbon then looks like RO (top horizontal canister) Pressure gauge somewhere either before or after RO ....... then DI and last out to TDS out... I was mistaken on one thing it isnt the Carbon that isnt filling all the way up its the DI filter that isnt. I changed the TDS out because it was comming off of the RO filter the one on top and put it after the DI and now I am reading 0TDS.... Does this sound right? Also is the DI filter suppose to be full or no? Its about 1/4 full with water trickle.

 

[Xx__xX]

0 TDS is the key. I purchase a cheapo system off the fea bee and replaced the filters.. cheaper. just an option.

 

[aquaman67]

0 TDS is the key. I purchase a cheapo system off the fea bee and replaced the filters.. cheaper. just an option.

Did you replace the membrane too?

Or at least check the efficiency of the membrane?

On "cheap" units they substitute a lower efficiency membrane. You will still get zero TDS because the DI resin is doing all the work.

You can run tap water though DI resin and get zero TDS.

The membrane is what mechanically filters out much of the bad stuff in water. The DI resin takes care of the rest.

If your membrane isn't efficient, you'll burn up DI resin.

To test your membrane take the line lose that comes out of the membrane and goes into the DI resin. Test that water for TDS.

Let's say your tap water is 168 TDS.

Coming out of the membrane it's 8 TDS.

168-8=160

160/168= .95 or 95 % effecient.

That's not too bad, 98% is better. The water out of the membrane would be 4 or less.

If your membrane is less than 96 % I'd replace it.

The pre-filters don't do much other than take out big chunks and chlorine.

Just because you didn't pay much up front doesn't mean you won't end up paying more in the end.

See my sig line