you guys are so over my head. some one just tell me which one to buy that works that will not be a ton on money(I would like around 150-200 dollars). hell anything is better then bring 40 milk jugs to the pet store and paying 30 cents a gallon and then having to bring them up two flights of stairs every two weeks.
RO/DI units...
- Thread starter Krazy
- Start date
Ken668
New member
So by "BLOWS away", you mean you get a little more output? And by "worked better", you mean you get a little more output? But yet they both still get 0ppm? So for the extra $100+ (don't forget the better filters and bypass!), you get a little more output? Yes, I guess a pressure gauge is nice and TDS meter is nice, but I'm pretty sure both of these can found for less than $100+. That being said, I'm pretty sure I can wait a couple extra minutes for that extra $100.
and p.s. 1sick, I never said I haven't changed my filters. I replaced them around the 1 year mark as recommended.
and p.s. 1sick, I never said I haven't changed my filters. I replaced them around the 1 year mark as recommended.
1SickReefer
New member
Purelyh2o $149 (unit) +13.72 (shipping) = 162.72 Includes float valve and pressure gauge... comes with top of the line filters thoughout
Filterdirect $95.00 (unit) + 22.00 (shipping) + 16.50 (float valve) + 14.99 (pressure gauge) = $148.49 comes with chinese knockoff membrane, GAC carbon, 10mic sediment and hollow inefficient DI tubes.
For a total difference of a whopping $14.23, so again I am not sure where you ppl get $100 difference from junk to quality. its 20 bucks more to buy a unit that already has quality filters in it.
Also with the horizontal DI units you better be ready to buy that first bag of replacement DI ALOT sooner than you would have to replace a 10" vert DI.
So there goes your 20 bucks
the debate rages on
Filterdirect $95.00 (unit) + 22.00 (shipping) + 16.50 (float valve) + 14.99 (pressure gauge) = $148.49 comes with chinese knockoff membrane, GAC carbon, 10mic sediment and hollow inefficient DI tubes.
For a total difference of a whopping $14.23, so again I am not sure where you ppl get $100 difference from junk to quality. its 20 bucks more to buy a unit that already has quality filters in it.
Also with the horizontal DI units you better be ready to buy that first bag of replacement DI ALOT sooner than you would have to replace a 10" vert DI.
So there goes your 20 bucks
the debate rages on
Last edited:
1SickReefer
New member
Here is a quote from Spectrapure a RC sponsor concerning 0 TDS.
Just because your meter reads 0 does not mean its 0..
quote from Spectrapure pulled from another thread
I thought I would weigh in on the misnomer "ZERO TDS". Persons stating ZERO TDS I assume are referring to Zero Indicated TDS. What's the difference you ask? Well, quite a bit when you are really talking about ultrapure water. Ultrapure water is about 18.2 mohms or about 0.05 microseimens. Most Reefers are after such ultrapure water in our experience. Thus, if there were such a thing as "ZERO TDS", it might be more appropriately measured around 0.05 micro siemens. Unfortunately, most (not all) inexpensive TDS meters can resolve about 5 micro seimens. That is several decades less sensitivity than required to be stating so called "ZERO TDS".
While 5 micro siemens conductivity (at an affordable price and rugged instrument easily operated and maintained) is very reasonable for for break-through detection to signal cartridge replacement required, it is clearly not sufficient to measure or crow about having “ZERO TDS†. Thus, postings where one has "measured" a system or component performance and state they have "ZERO TDS" should be careful to quantify the accuracy of the instrument they are using to make such a claim. Hopefully have shown that zero is not always zero
Just because your meter reads 0 does not mean its 0..
quote from Spectrapure pulled from another thread
I thought I would weigh in on the misnomer "ZERO TDS". Persons stating ZERO TDS I assume are referring to Zero Indicated TDS. What's the difference you ask? Well, quite a bit when you are really talking about ultrapure water. Ultrapure water is about 18.2 mohms or about 0.05 microseimens. Most Reefers are after such ultrapure water in our experience. Thus, if there were such a thing as "ZERO TDS", it might be more appropriately measured around 0.05 micro siemens. Unfortunately, most (not all) inexpensive TDS meters can resolve about 5 micro seimens. That is several decades less sensitivity than required to be stating so called "ZERO TDS".
While 5 micro siemens conductivity (at an affordable price and rugged instrument easily operated and maintained) is very reasonable for for break-through detection to signal cartridge replacement required, it is clearly not sufficient to measure or crow about having “ZERO TDS†. Thus, postings where one has "measured" a system or component performance and state they have "ZERO TDS" should be careful to quantify the accuracy of the instrument they are using to make such a claim. Hopefully have shown that zero is not always zero
Ken668
By blows away we are talking the following:
Filter Direct unit- 5 gal container filled in about 90-120 minutes +
. Much more water going out the waste water line and into the drain.
Ocean reef model- 5 gal container filled in about 40-60 minutes and much less water going down the drain from the waste line.
*This is after installing a pressure pump inline to the unit. I had only 36lbs of pressure on the line where unit is installed. Pump keeps it constant at 80lbs of pressure now. This is where the pressure valve came in handy
I don't know the exact waste gallon difference but in my playing around I ran the waste line to washer and the filter direct model filled it much higher.
Pressure gauge is nice and will let you know if you have low water pressure even to start which is bad for the performance of the membrane and causes more water to go down drain and not into tank water (rejection rate). Also alerts to time when the filters are getting time to replace visually
TDS meter- lets you monitor the the TDS going in the unit and out of the unit. Nice to have a visual showing when the filters/DI resin are getting wasted.
Clear housings on all filters allow you again to visually see what's going on in the unit.
If your putting thousands into your tank and corals and like here at my house we have 4 tanks $100.00 difference is a small amt of change to spend to have a better unit. Like I said I have had both and the internal parts of the Ocean reef are better to start (like membrane, cartridges etc) The membrane alone and its rejection rate vs pressure of the different makers will save $$ on some waste water alone.
Upright DI canister on the Ocean Reef vs the horizontal on the filter direct model. The filter direct model caused channeling through the canister and didn't force the water through the resin like the upright container does.
Ocean reef has a nice bypass valve that lets you use RO water with its attached valve for non tank use. Filter direct model didn't have that.
Manual membrane flush valve on the Ocean Reef unit where the filter direct didn't have. I don't think its even an option on it.
I looked into converting my filter direct model over to a 75gpd dow membrane and flow valve, better internal sediment and carbon filters, adding a flush valve, pressure gauge, and a vertical DI canister and the cost was way up there to the price of buying a new unit. I would have saved $$$ in the beginning buying a better unit to start that didn't need upgrading later.
Customer service. Bought 2 filter direct models for me and one for drinking water for my Grandfathers city water in VA. Emailed them a few times on problems with a fitting on his unit and it took forever to get a reply from them (day or 2). Bought new filters and it took over a week and a half to get them and had to wait 2 days after paying to ship. When they came it was something other than what we ordered..Had to send them back on my time.
The filterguys. Answered every email within an hr. They send you a phone number to call if problems. Explain everything from filter styles and what may or may not be needed in your situation. Shipped items out the very next day on both orders and I had them in 3 days
Customer service says lots when you buy something and how you will be treated down the rd.
Like I said this is all my opinion and may not be others......
By blows away we are talking the following:
Filter Direct unit- 5 gal container filled in about 90-120 minutes +
. Much more water going out the waste water line and into the drain.
Ocean reef model- 5 gal container filled in about 40-60 minutes and much less water going down the drain from the waste line.
*This is after installing a pressure pump inline to the unit. I had only 36lbs of pressure on the line where unit is installed. Pump keeps it constant at 80lbs of pressure now. This is where the pressure valve came in handy
I don't know the exact waste gallon difference but in my playing around I ran the waste line to washer and the filter direct model filled it much higher.
Pressure gauge is nice and will let you know if you have low water pressure even to start which is bad for the performance of the membrane and causes more water to go down drain and not into tank water (rejection rate). Also alerts to time when the filters are getting time to replace visually
TDS meter- lets you monitor the the TDS going in the unit and out of the unit. Nice to have a visual showing when the filters/DI resin are getting wasted.
Clear housings on all filters allow you again to visually see what's going on in the unit.
If your putting thousands into your tank and corals and like here at my house we have 4 tanks $100.00 difference is a small amt of change to spend to have a better unit. Like I said I have had both and the internal parts of the Ocean reef are better to start (like membrane, cartridges etc) The membrane alone and its rejection rate vs pressure of the different makers will save $$ on some waste water alone.
Upright DI canister on the Ocean Reef vs the horizontal on the filter direct model. The filter direct model caused channeling through the canister and didn't force the water through the resin like the upright container does.
Ocean reef has a nice bypass valve that lets you use RO water with its attached valve for non tank use. Filter direct model didn't have that.
Manual membrane flush valve on the Ocean Reef unit where the filter direct didn't have. I don't think its even an option on it.
I looked into converting my filter direct model over to a 75gpd dow membrane and flow valve, better internal sediment and carbon filters, adding a flush valve, pressure gauge, and a vertical DI canister and the cost was way up there to the price of buying a new unit. I would have saved $$$ in the beginning buying a better unit to start that didn't need upgrading later.
Customer service. Bought 2 filter direct models for me and one for drinking water for my Grandfathers city water in VA. Emailed them a few times on problems with a fitting on his unit and it took forever to get a reply from them (day or 2). Bought new filters and it took over a week and a half to get them and had to wait 2 days after paying to ship. When they came it was something other than what we ordered..Had to send them back on my time.
The filterguys. Answered every email within an hr. They send you a phone number to call if problems. Explain everything from filter styles and what may or may not be needed in your situation. Shipped items out the very next day on both orders and I had them in 3 days
Customer service says lots when you buy something and how you will be treated down the rd.
Like I said this is all my opinion and may not be others......
deepblue836
New member
I could be wrong but wouldn't using brass plumbing attachments for an ro/di sink attachment be a bad idea? I think I remember reading that brass has copper in it. 
purelyh2o
New member
Copper
Copper
The reason it is a bad idea to use copper with an RO system is because the RO DI water is very acidic/aggressive and will leach the alloys from the metal and return it to the water. This is only an issue after the RO as michaelg stated. The alloys in copper are very easily removed by the system
Copper
The reason it is a bad idea to use copper with an RO system is because the RO DI water is very acidic/aggressive and will leach the alloys from the metal and return it to the water. This is only an issue after the RO as michaelg stated. The alloys in copper are very easily removed by the system
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