RO/DI Water Cost at Home

tcamos,

That unit was released just 4 days ago. It comes with a 3 point tds meter. It also comes with a 99% rejection membrane. Good choice, but before you pull the trigger. How many gallons are you going to change a week? Also if you need help optimizing your set up please let me know. I know all the right ways to do things, and I can tell you the wrong ways to do them as well. Not that you would want to, but if you know the wrong ways, you would be less likely to do it.

Anyways,

If you need any help at all please let me know.

Jeremy
 
Also, I can help you piece together an economic way to get drinking water. We also have a kit that give you a tank, and a faucet. I believe it is about 120 dollars.

Jeremy
 
Also, I can help you piece together an economic way to get drinking water. We also have a kit that give you a tank, and a faucet. I believe it is about 120 dollars.

Jeremy

If you don't need a tank they have an in line three way valve for $15 they sold me that I hooked in just before my di resins. I flip the lever, run the output to my water jug, and have ro water for my water cooler. Flip the lever back, and I'm back making RODI.

My only complaint with my Max cap 2:1 system I bought last month from them is no one mentioned (until I read the directions) that it is really 3:1 unless your water is soft enough to switch out the flow restrictor to the 2:1, which AZ water isn't. But I still love the unit, and it works amazingly!
 
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John,

Sorry that no one explained that to you. Unfortunately we live in a desert. If you have a water softener, and you place your system after that 2:1 will be no problem at all.

Jeremy
 
If you don't need a tank they have an in line three way valve for $15 they sold me that I hooked in just before my di resins. I flip the lever, run the output to my water jug, and have ro water for my water cooler. Flip the lever back, and I'm back making RODI.

My only complaint with my Max cap 2:1 system I bought last month from them is no one mentioned (until I read the directions) that it is really 3:1 unless your water is soft enough to switch out the flow restrictor to the 2:1, which AZ water isn't. But I still love the unit, and it work amazingly!

I have the same setup, but in addition I have a check valve between the membrane and the 3 way valve
 
The three way ball valve was the economical way I was speaking about. Thanks guys for saving me a bit of time. For the people who want a nice looking faucet, and a holding tank, well we have that too.

Anyways, I hope all of you guys have a wonderful weekend.

P.S.

If we all move to Colorado Springs we can get a input TDS of 30-50, and our price per gallon would be reduced to a penny.

LoL
 
P.S.

If we all move to Colorado Springs we can get a input TDS of 30-50, and our price per gallon would be reduced to a penny.

LoL

Yeah, but then I couldn't drive down to pick up my replacement filters, and would have to pay shipping... Of course, I guess I would be replacing them A LOT less often...
 
Based on the above comments...

I wouldn't be able to get the 2:1 out of the unit so that's good to know. I live in Arizona and don't have a softener on my house.

I will use the RO for drinking water to fill jugs. We have a water cooler that makes nice cold water. We keep the extras on a shelf in the garage. My wife doesn't want a sink unit so though I want one that makes RO I don't want all the tank and faucet stuff.

The RO and RO/DI will be the same unit. I've read that a little valve placed before the DI resin is all I need to turn it into RO and that will work for my needs.

I am not 100% sure exactly how much water I use each month between tank and drinking but it's likely below 150 gallons a month maybe way below. A 95 gallon per day unit is more than enough. I certainly could do with a smaller unit.
 
Yes, I understand that. My point was that the 2:1 was the main reason for picking that unit. If my hard water won't allow me to get that out of it I might as well pick a more affordable unit.
 
Oh! When a system says that it is 2:1 that is really only referring to the length of the flow restrictor, and which the ratio of waste to product. Our systems can run 2:1 with the appropriate features in certain areas. Even if I could run 2:1 in an area I wouldn't. The more water you waste typically means the longer your filters last. Unfortunately this is not good for the water supply, but hey they are just recycling all of our water anyways. You will still need all the same features. The cost in this system has very little to do with the waste to product ratio, and more to do with the features on the system. The 2:1 MaxCap and CSPDI both have higher rejecting membranes, high capacity DI, Flush valve kit to preserve your membrane, ASO, and a float valve.

Also out here in AZ, we can use our waste water for some of the indigenous plants. The one that I know that will take the water is oleander bush. You couldn't try to kill those things if you wanted to with anything short of dynamite.

Jeremy
 
What exactly is different about the waste water? I thought it would be fine for all plants but clearly from your post it's not.
 
In a 3 waste to 1 good system, the waste water contains the pollutants from the good water, so the waste water is 33% "worse" than the tap water. On the plus side, the waste water has no dirt or chlorine in it.

In Arizona, if the tap water is 750 TDS, then the waste water will be 1000 TDS.

In Colorado, if the tap water is 100, then the waste water is only 133.

Different plants have different tolerances.

Scott
SpectraPure
 
I would still go with a spectrapure unit. They make the best products and media. I have had the maxcap 90 for years. I use it for both RO and RODI. For the ro I just get it from before the di with a t valve and fill up gallon jugs as needed.
You can always upgrade the unit slowly down the line.... just like are tanks :) I started out with the basic maxcap 90. Now I have added a booster pump and an extra membrane and a manual flush kit now my unit does 240GPD! and has a 2:1 to 3:1 ratio depending on the time of year. The faster you can make water is really much nicer expecially if you just want to fill up a gallon jug and it only takes minutes. The filters last a long time now I have to change my first di about every 3 months.
 
Well I guess I can't complain then. My TDS in in Phoenix is averaging about 403. Into my DI is still 0 to 1, and out has never been anything but 0... Sadly, haven't tried catching my waste water yet, or figuring out how to hold it once I figure out how to catch it...
 
Then I would say get a unit with 2 di filters. I run the maxcap di and then the silica buster. When my first di hits 1 I still get a 0tds it gives a nice cushion..... and I still know im getting perfect water.
 
@ Big John. My TDS hits close to 1000 in the summer here in maricopa lol
Anf for my waste water I have a long peice of tubing I can hook up and I just run it outside to a tree or something when I make water.
 
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I live in Mesa. These figures are from my Jan 2014 bill.

Total water charges including sewer,fees and taxes: $58.02
Total billed gallons: 9000
Cost per gallon of billed water: 0.64 cents per gallon.
Assuming a 4:1 ratio and 100% waste,my cost per RO/DI gallon in Mesa is 3.2 cents. Most LFS charge 10-30 times that for RO/DI,
The value is what you make of it in time,travel, and extra effort.

I paid about $150.00 for a BRS 4-stage system last October.
If you use the low end of 33 cents per gallon for purchased RO/DI, the unit payback point is at 454 gallons.

I use about 25 gallons per week for all our tanks.
If you ignore the approximately 300 gallons for initial setup and cycling of my 110g DT + 30g sump, it will have paid for itself in less than 5 months.
If you count the setup water, it's already paid for itself and my tank has only been cycled for 2 months!

My back already thanks me!

Nice! I am purchasing mine next week.. woohooo no more lugging around jugs all over town
 
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