ro/di water
- Thread starter jag940
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Buster4900
New member
I think if you keep it in a sealed container should be easily good for a month, probably more. If it is good quality RO/DI nothing will be in the water and being sealed should be good for years?
I am curious to hear what others think.
I am curious to hear what others think.
Coppertop412
New member
I'm curious as to the answer as well. I know if a pull a glass of water from my RO/DI it tastes pure, but if I let it sit on the desk a day or two it tastes nasty!
So does everyone have sealed top of containers and mixing containers?
So does everyone have sealed top of containers and mixing containers?
rodster912000
New member
def a good question im new to the hobby and would love to know although i do have two sealed 5 gal containers i plan to use with a ato system!
RO/DI water (or salt water for that matter) will last forever if it is kept in a clean food grade sealed container. It is advised to aerate the water before use however. If you are only using a small amount, there is no need to aerate it, but if you are making a 5% or greater water change, aeration is advised. No need for circulation.
Pufferpunk
New member
I add salt ASAP, since there is no chlorine keeping bacteria from growing in there.
Ben loh, You would be amazed what can be in Distilled water.
With ANY water source (including tap, bottled, RO, DI, and RODI), you must test your end result water. The easiest way to do this for RODI is to use a Total Dissolved Solids meter (TDS for short). The reason why TDS works for RODI is that you are shooting for no TDS. The problem with using a TDS meter for distilled and other sources is that there is no way to know WHAT those dissolved solids are. If they are say calcium, we dose our tanks with calcium, same thing with iron, magnesium, sodium salts, etc. If those TDS are things like lead, copper, arsenic etc, you could be in trouble.
Personally, I would prefer to shell out $120 (which is a small cost compared to the thousands I know I spend on my tanks) for a RODI unit from Bulkreefsupply.com, than have to worry about what those TDS are.
If you still don't want to get a RODI unit, with distilled and tap (even sometimes RO), test for what you can. As a possessor of a fish aquarium, you should at LEAST have ammonia, nitrite and nitrate tests. Test your water. If you have a calcium test, often the primary TDS factor in water will be that, so if your TDS meter reads in PPM, you can subtract PPMs of calcium to get your "unknown" TDS reading. Try to get that below 10 for a FO/FOWLR tank, and if it is a reef, JUST GET A RODI UNIT!!!
Getting back to the point of this thread, I have always stored in 5gal unused paint buckets with snap on lids, and mixed in 35G garbage cans.
With ANY water source (including tap, bottled, RO, DI, and RODI), you must test your end result water. The easiest way to do this for RODI is to use a Total Dissolved Solids meter (TDS for short). The reason why TDS works for RODI is that you are shooting for no TDS. The problem with using a TDS meter for distilled and other sources is that there is no way to know WHAT those dissolved solids are. If they are say calcium, we dose our tanks with calcium, same thing with iron, magnesium, sodium salts, etc. If those TDS are things like lead, copper, arsenic etc, you could be in trouble.
Personally, I would prefer to shell out $120 (which is a small cost compared to the thousands I know I spend on my tanks) for a RODI unit from Bulkreefsupply.com, than have to worry about what those TDS are.
If you still don't want to get a RODI unit, with distilled and tap (even sometimes RO), test for what you can. As a possessor of a fish aquarium, you should at LEAST have ammonia, nitrite and nitrate tests. Test your water. If you have a calcium test, often the primary TDS factor in water will be that, so if your TDS meter reads in PPM, you can subtract PPMs of calcium to get your "unknown" TDS reading. Try to get that below 10 for a FO/FOWLR tank, and if it is a reef, JUST GET A RODI UNIT!!!
Getting back to the point of this thread, I have always stored in 5gal unused paint buckets with snap on lids, and mixed in 35G garbage cans.
Take note that regardless of how long the ro/di lasts, the membrane in your unit will dry out if not used in a couple of weeks (your mileage may vary) and once it has its toast... so if you are going to "stock up", make sure your still running water through your unit to keep it wet.
DustinB
New member
The gray Rubbermaid Brute containers are food safe. The level of phosphate that may get leached is very minor. In fact after a couple months of use I no longer test any phosphate in my RODI.
As for leaving water in there, I have no issues with this, just keep the lid on. You may have to wash it with vinegar once every 4-6 months if it starts to smell a bit.
As for leaving water in there, I have no issues with this, just keep the lid on. You may have to wash it with vinegar once every 4-6 months if it starts to smell a bit.
The Velvet Sea
New member
As long as you don't drain the RO membrane housing, it should store just fine for well over a couple of weeks (I've gone months) without drying out.
Pufferpunk
New member
I always have the water moving or it gets stagnant.
Thanks Clams55, you have reminded me to test the distilled water as i always thought that is safe as the label stated 0 for all elements. Well, is not that i don't want to install RODI unit, first is my parent house and space is a problem for me.
karsseboom
New member
distilled water will be fine they dont use copper pipes anymore...thats an old myth your fine.
jmchzn123
New member
I have been using a Brute can from rubbermaid. I never have Phos and I never heard of this before. I do have a Phos reactor but it would kill me to know I'm making the Phos. Now I have to check my water. I don't think I ever tested Phos in my saltwater before.
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