ro/di

buddhafish

New member
can someone throw me a good link learn about carbon and carbon blocks on ro/di units? If my knowledge is correct (Right now I only understand the most basic of basics) the order is Sediment Filter, Carbon Filter, Carbon Block, Reverse Osmosis Membranes, DI Resins. Now do each of these have their own stage, hence a 5 stage system? As I said, I only have the most basic understanding, if you would even call it that lol.
The article that I have read...http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-05/rhf/
...Maybe something detailing on set-up a bit more??
 
If I understand it correctly, a carbon block is a kind of carbon filter. It's the kind used in RO/DI. Standard units have four stages: sediment, carbon, RO, DI. Depending on your situation, you may want to add additional stages. For example, a regular carbon filter doesn't affect chloramine the same way it does chlorine, so you would use a carbon filter made for chloramine (I'm not a chemist, so I can't explain how that works). Or if your water has a lot of sediment, you might have a 5 micron followed by a 1 micron sediment filter to catch everything without clogging a standalone 1 micron filter too fast. You can add extra RO membranes, or DI stages, too. It depends on your source water. That link is informative. That's where I usually look if I have a question about RO/DI.
 
If I understand it correctly, a carbon block is a kind of carbon filter. It's the kind used in RO/DI. Standard units have four stages: sediment, carbon, RO, DI. Depending on your situation, you may want to add additional stages. For example, a regular carbon filter doesn't affect chloramine the same way it does chlorine, so you would use a carbon filter made for chloramine (I'm not a chemist, so I can't explain how that works). Or if your water has a lot of sediment, you might have a 5 micron followed by a 1 micron sediment filter to catch everything without clogging a standalone 1 micron filter too fast. You can add extra RO membranes, or DI stages, too. It depends on your source water. That link is informative. That's where I usually look if I have a question about RO/DI.

Thanks for the reply
 
can you obtain a copy from your water company of whats in their water. I have Toho water here in Florida and I can look up what is in their water. If you can it will help determine what you need out of a ro unit.
 
can you obtain a copy from your water company of whats in their water. I have Toho water here in Florida and I can look up what is in their water. If you can it will help determine what you need out of a ro unit.

Ok, I will take a look and see if I can dig up some info.
 
I guess one question I have is about the carbon stages. Does the first carbon stage have loosely packed carbon, and then the carbon block after that?
 
Most of the time, a single carbon block to remove chlorine is all you need, and that is it's only purpose. If you have chloramine, some people think a special carbon block may be useful, although in my tests, a single normal carbon block was adequate. :)
 
Most of the time, a single carbon block to remove chlorine is all you need, and that is it's only purpose. If you have chloramine, some people think a special carbon block may be useful, although in my tests, a single normal carbon block was adequate. :)

Thanks, that's the answer I was looking for.
 
With chloramines (chlorine + ammonia) all a carbon block will do is remove the chlorine. It does nothing to the ammonia. Ammonia will pass straight through all filters and the membrane. The DI removes the Ammonia part. The Ammonia will not show up on a test like Salifert, you need a test that shows total ammonia.
 
With chloramines (chlorine + ammonia) all a carbon block will do is remove the chlorine. It does nothing to the ammonia. Ammonia will pass straight through all filters and the membrane. The DI removes the Ammonia part. The Ammonia will not show up on a test like Salifert, you need a test that shows total ammonia.

So what type of test do you recommend to test the final RO/DI water with then?
 
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