Ro/di

CoralKing

Member
I'm looking for a new RO/DI unit under $160 or so.

I"ve noticed some have 3 prefilters, while others only have two. Does this make a significant difference?

Are any particular models recommended?
 
The Typhoon from air water ice is less than $160. Has 3 prefilters, the dow filmtec 75 gpd membrane (good membrane), and a full sized vertical DI cannister. It also comes with an auto shutoff valve and a float valve for automating your water making.
 
I took a look at the Typhoon, but it indicates that it has a 10 micron and a 5 micron prefilter. I've noticed that some other RO/DI units have 0.5 micron prefilters. Would these be a better option?
 
The typhoon has 10, 5, and 1 micron pre filters. The 0.5 is a good one and is usually in units that have only 2 pre filters. Either one would probably be fine. I think the tradeoff is somewhat how quickly the filters will clog, which depends on your source water. 10,5, and 1 will clog less quickly than a single 0.5 because the larger blocks will filter out the larger particles.
 
How does the MaxCap 90 compare to the Typhoon? I notice that the MaxCap has only two prefilters, while the Typhoon has three. Would the performance on the MaxCap be noticeably better than the typhoon?

Also, the MaxCap 90 has two DI chambers - does this improve water quality/membrane life?

Thanks
 
The maxcap 90 is a great unit. I'm going to be setting one up for my friend tomorrow night. It comes with a lot of nice features like the dual tds meters and dual DI cartridges. If you have the extra spending money, then it is a great way to go. Otherwise the Typhoon will fit all your needs.

Regarding multiple prefilters. You need to know about your tap water conditions. If you have chloramines then the dual carbon filters on the Typhoon will provide longer contact time and this is a good thing. With the maxcap you only have one so I would be VERY meticulous about replacing it every 6 months if you have chloramines. You can also ask spectrapure how they feel about the issue of chloramines. Otherwise, it won't matter much. Also regarding the size of the micron ratings on the prefilters. Once you buy one of these units, you are pretty much free to use sediment filters and carbon filters from any reputable source. If you want to try a 1 micron sediment filter and finer carbon filter, then try it and simply watch your pressure gauge to make sure they don't clog prematurely (as would happen with high sediment tap water). The only unit I wouldn't try this on is the maxcap because it only uses the one carbon filter. My guess is they have choosen something special so that they can get by with only that one carbon block and still take care of most peoples needs. However, I would clarify with them before purchase. AZdesertRat is kindof a spectrapure expert. Maybe he can chime in.
sorry for rambling,
FB
 
The maxcap is a better unit. Not because it has 2 pre filters, but because of the DI section. It doesn't cost less than $160, though. If your input TDS is high the maxcap may pay for itself over the long run in less DI resin cost, but if your input TDS is lower I don't think there is really much of an advantage. It gives you water that is more pure, but I'm personally doubtful that makes any actual difference in the aquarium. My input TDS is around 150 and my post RO with a typhoon is 1. I make maybe 30-40 gallons per week and it takes me more than a year to go through a single DI cartridge -- so the payoff wouldn't be there for me.
 
Thanks for all the information. I use around 25 gallons of water per week and my tap TDS is around 225ppm. Would the maxcap's DI resin last much longer than the Typhoon would?
 
Is there a way I can determine if my water contains chloramines online?

Also, between the Typhoon and the maxcap, would it cost around the same to replace the prefilters and DI resin, when they're exhausted?
 
Last edited:
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8691971#post8691971 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by CoralKing
Thanks for all the information. I use around 25 gallons of water per week and my tap TDS is around 225ppm. Would the maxcap's DI resin last much longer than the Typhoon would?

I think it would. My bet is you would be replacing your DI resin maybe once/year on the Typhoon, and probably around every 3 years on the maxcap (given the claim of 3.5x regular DI capacity). A DI refill for the typhoon is around $12. You will replace the prefilters probably at the same time for each. A set of 6 filters for the Typhoon (enough for 2 changes) is about $30, and it looks like a _single_ prefilter replacement set for the maxcap is around $30. So it appears the Typhoon would have a yearly operating cost (excluding water cost) of $42 (assuming you change the prefilters every 6 months), and the maxcap would have a yearly cost of around $60 for the prefilters, and a cost every 3 years for the DI. So I don't think it would beat the price with your input TDS and volume of water production. You could triple your water production and the cost would still be in the Typhoon's favor. My pricing on the maxcap refill is based on my search of their website, but may be wrong so you should check for yourself.
 
Wait. I'm not sure I agree here. The DI resin on the maxcap should only last longer because there is more. Unless they use special resin which I do not believe they do. Most resins only get about 3000TDS (told you i'd use that AZdesertrat). How long the resin lasts in a unit should only depend on the TDS that feeds into it. And because both units use filmtec 98% rejection membranes, I beleive the DI should deplete at the same rate. Unless again, Spectrapure is using higher than 3000TDS per 24 oz of resin.
FB
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8691976#post8691976 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by CoralKing
Is there a way I can determine if my water contains chloramines online?

search for your cities water report online. If you can't find it, ask one of the RO/DI vendors to help you when you decide which vendor you want to go with.
FB
 
So I think. And again i'm not 100% an expert here. But based on both units having a 98% rejection rate membrane. You should get 5 TDS out of your post membrane. Since 24 oz of high quality resin gets 3000TDS out total, you are looking at 600 gallons of water from each DI cartridge (the maxcap has two). So 600 gallon with 25 gallons a week should only be about 24 weeks worth of resin.

In your case, because you are comparing two good units with high quality membranes, I think the only question is whether you want to pay for the other perks the max cap offers. Two DI chambers means less ordering and fiddling (about 50 weeks worth of resin instead of 24). THe max cap also has 2 dual tds meters to monitor performance as well as the pressure gauge. If these things mean a lot to you, get the maxcap. If they don't, then you will be very pleased with the typhoon. Either way, two good units.
FB
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8692311#post8692311 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Fishbulb2
The DI resin on the maxcap should only last longer because there is more. Unless they use special resin which I do not believe they do.

It is my understanding that they use a special formulation. Regardless, it is their own claim that they get 3.5x the life of others, not mine.
 
Huh, great info crumbletop. I didn't realize that's what they claimed. I read the statement on their site and i'll have to read it a few times. I wonder if it's 3.5X greater than the poorest quality resin, or 3.5X greater than what other DI vendors here are selling. That 3.5X sure does change things a lot though. That's a lot less resin you'd use.
FB
 
I think I'm going to go with the MaxCap. It is offered in a 180 and 90 gpd model. I'm guessing with average water temperature and pressure (no booster pump), I would average around 30gpd with the 90 and 60gpd with the 180. Is the 180 worth the extra cost? Do most people have RO/DI units above 100gpd?
 
The MaxCap system will get 3.5x more treated water than any other cartridge period. Its amazing. I normally get 150 gallons from a high quality nuclear or semiconductor grade cartridge and I'm already well over 300 gallons with no signs of TDS breakthru yet.
 
I have the 90. With a temp of 69 degrees and pressure of 68 psi I am getting right at the 90 GPD. During the summer when my water is in the 75 to 80 degree range I get about 100 to 110 GPD. I also upgraded to the hand tested 98+% select series RO membrane so I am getting between 98.6 and 99.2 % rejection rate which makes the DI last even longer.
 
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