RO vs DI Which is better!

D&KSac

Premium Member
I have been hearing alot of different opinions about which to use.
but which is better for Reef tanks.. I just got off the phone with Culligan and they were saying that there systems are not RO/DI you can either have one or the other. But the person that i talked to said that most of her customers that use the filtration for a fish tank do DI not RO. I had heard that RO is what is needed in Sacramento for Reefs..
 
Most of the systems at LFS sell the RO and DI systems. Fact I was just at Your Reef and John was assembling a 6 stage Ro/DI setup which was very cool.

You dont get much better than a 6 stage , that water will come out absolutly perfect from what John was telling me.

I think Culligan will sell things more gear for human comumstion rather than Reefs.
 
Culligan was telling me that most of there customers that buy for Fish tanks just use DI not the RO but they do sell both systems. RO system was about 1200$ where the DI system is 18 per month rental on the tank and 93 dollars every time you get the tank charged which is about 400 gal of use. But they are 2 different systems not running inline together
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9601373#post9601373 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Avalanche Wolf
Most of the systems at LFS sell the RO and DI systems. Fact I was just at Your Reef and John was assembling a 6 stage Ro/DI setup which was very cool.

You dont get much better than a 6 stage , that water will come out absolutly perfect from what John was telling me.

I think Culligan will sell things more gear for human comumstion rather than Reefs.

i bought one of those and ther ARE AWESOME.....something to invest in that's worth the money
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9601449#post9601449 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sltpro-07
i bought one of those and ther ARE AWESOME.....something to invest in that's worth the money


Can u give us more information on that one at Johns ? My kent marine one needs new filter but everwhere I look they are twice the money of other RO.DI filters out there having the Kent name.

I would also like to step up to the 6 stage as well instead of the 4 stage.


RO system was about 1200$ where the DI system is 18 per month rental on the tank and 93 dollars every time you get the tank charged which is about 400 gal of use

That is money wasted at that price !! A RO/DI system will run you under 200 for most not sure on the one i was talking about above but no where near 1200 bucks !!

Call up John at Your Reef and ask him about that 6 stage Ro/di system. There is nothing to really install you just run the water line like a hose or off the faucet to the unit with the hosing attached and let the water drip into a bucket.

Another alternitive is most LFS will GIVE YOU FOR FREE Ro/DI water. I know Coral Reef shop does not sure on Your Reef but sure they do. Down side to that is you have to shell the money out on the containers which are pretty pricey for something that once again if you are doing water changes twice a month and with the cost of gas and the containers a at home Ro/DI system from a LFS will pass for it self in no time.

Just please dont call Culigan man on this one , that is just rubish and a waste.
 
Actually, not to be the downdraft, but CRS is the only place I know of that gives it away. Ive known personally 2 others will sell it to you though, not sure if they still do but Ost has sold me a few gallons when I was there and needed it, as well as Aqualife in Rocklin. Havent checked with yourreef though.

Basically think if DI as the final stage people use RO to extend the life of the DI when speaking of stage filters, as RO's will reduce tap down usually to 15-10 or lower PPM, while DI's drop it down to 0-3 depending on the area you live in and the life left in your filter, with a good unit the RO should be 5 or less and the DI kicks it to 0. Now the DI alone like your culligan man refered to can be the only thing necessary, but will quickly exhaust if not paird with an RO filter.
1200 dollars is excessive, for all your reefing needs you can get the best of the best for $200 + tax or less. I personally went with a Typhoon III and couldnt be happier, in fact right off the RO im still reading just 1-2 PPm after a year(or so). It can be found here: a i r w a t e r i c e . c o m, RC wont let me post them correctly:(

-Justin
 
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I went a little cheap on the RO/DI unit and bought a Water General off of eBay. Picked the whole thing shipped (6 stage RODI unit) for about $130. TDS has been nominal after the last 6 months and works great. The DI chambers are refillable too and the sediment filters are common size and types so you are no locking yourself into anything proprietary.
 
Basically depends where you live and what's the TDS at your tap water, you can design your own system accordingly. not everybody need 4 stage, or not 6 stage is better then 4 stage, and so on. I will try to explain.

a little background, add on to what Justin have said up there, a reverse osmosis (RO) device can reduce 80-90% of your TDS of your input water. depends on the membrane you use, you get different efficiency and different output speed, i.e. GPD. the higher the GPD it makes, usually lower the efficiency you will get. also who makes the membrane have a big impact on the quality too. ppl usually replace the membrane in 3-5 years, or less then 60% of the input.

deionize (DI) purify water through chemical process, which means, the more ion it needs to be removed, the faster it will exhaust, i.e. the faster you need to replace the filter. water coming out from it should read 0, sometime 1 if your TDS meter is a little bit off, anything over you should replace the filter.

the basic system consist of 4 stages,
1, sendiment filter trap large particles
2, carbon filter organic chemicals and most chlorination
3, reverse osmosis trap almost everything else
4, deionize filter trap the smallest ionic particles

6 stages usually adds in a finer sendiment filter and a better carbon filter. sometime ppl add UV filter to it too, but since we are not running a lab, I just think UV filter are unnecessary.

sendiment filter and carbon filter don't usually affect the TDS value, but it helps to filter out the larger particles so the RO membrane have less things to do, thus a longer life span. Same as DI filter, you can basically run your tap water through DI filter directly, but you may need to change the filter out every 2 weeks.

so it all comes down to prices of the filter, as I listed the stages up there, that's basically your price break down for each filter. sediment filter is the cheapest and DI filter is the most expensive

so if you live in a place where TDS value is very low, you dont' really need the RO device, you can run it though sediment, carbon then DI, it should give you some time before you need to replace the filter. but if you live in Davis, where TDS value is from 500-700 ppm, you better run 2 sediment 2 carbon, maybe 2 RO 1 DI, or 1 RO 2 DI to get the TDS down to 0. and you may need to change out the filter frequently also. even worse is, if you live in rural area where you are living off well water, TDS value are not monitored. by the state of california, 500 ppm are recommended, and 1500ppm maximum, so if you are around 1000ppm, then you are on your own buddy. good luck.
 
Lets start at the beginning with the definitions to help you diferentiate what RO and DI is as well as distilled, another people ask about, and TDS. Armed with these, it will aid you in selecting which source and why it is better or not.

My best suggestion would be choose one source and stick with it, by getting water from multiple sources could cause algae blooms that are unpredictable and come from out of nowhere.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reverse_osmosis

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deionized_water

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Total_dissolved_solids

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Distilled_water
 
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