rock color

angeljr8282

New member
hey how can i get that purple color look on my rocks my tank has been running for about 2/3weeks tops i been puting B-IONIC calcium buffer and Alkalinity component 1 and 2 eveyday i got a 10gal hex....and all i get is brown algae i did my frst water change about two days ago about 15/20% i used distilled water i algae is not to bad its verry light brown color can anyone help
 
your tank is cycling. This is normal.

Have you measured your calcium, or alk? Do you need the buffer? Do you have livestock in the tank already?
 
Patience. Coraline algae does not form overnight. Let your tank cycle first. You should get some coraline algae without using any buffers. What do you have in the tank now? What are you water conditions?
 
I'd suggest slowing down just a bit. I don't know if you were given the frag or bought it to put in the tank, but it's a little early for stocking the tank. Generally let the tank with live rock and sand cycle four to six weeks. Since you already have the polyps, hold what you've got. Start testing the water for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. don't change your water until the ammonia spikes and then goes back down to zero. It is also reccommended that you don't use any additives or buffers until your tank is cycled. When you do get to the point that you are ready for water changes, I would recommend using only RO/DI water from a LFS or a buddy with an RO/DI unit. I would not suggest buying distilled water at the grocery store because it is rummored to be an inferior product. There are some good beginer articles on here. I'd read up a bit. This is a great hobby and once things start to click you'll be hooked. Good luck!
 
Fair enough. I have no exprerience with distilled water myself, but I have read in a couple forums people who have tested distilled water and were not happy with the results. My LFS store sells RO/DI water for cheap. I think it's about 50 cents a gallon. With a 10 gallon hex you could buy a couple 5 gallon buckets, have one for top off and one or two for water changes for less the 20 bucks. But definetly let your tank cycle, start testing the water, and hold off on the additives for a bit.
 
thanx i will check my LFS to see if they sell ro/di water i hold back on buy live stockk for now thanx guys for the help
 
yeah ive heard the same about distilled. its sterile but it doesnt have the properties your looking for in reef water.
 
Most distilled water is just bottled RO water. The jug I have even says 'processed by reverse osmosis'. It works good for topoff in a small tank where you only add about a cup every few days. All your reef additives should come from water changes.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13326893#post13326893 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jbc123
Most distilled water is just bottled RO water. The jug I have even says 'processed by reverse osmosis'. It works good for topoff in a small tank where you only add about a cup every few days. All your reef additives should come from water changes.


That could depend on the integrity of the ro system being used to make the bottled water. Safer to just buy ro/di water from the LFS, if it's available.

Also as far as dosing your tank with the b-ionic. You really need to be testing, that way you know how much to add (just because the bottle says "dose this much per gal" doesn't mean you need to. Rule of thumb: "If your not testing for it don't dose it", until you test for whatever parameter your checking. That is the only way to not overdose or underdose.
I'm not trying to assume that your not testing, just an FYI.
And goodluck!:lol:
 
I like to support my LFS, but for something like an RO/DI, you're more than likely going to save money going through an online dealer or picking one up off of Ebay. Mine is an AquaFX unit that works very well. I either got it directly from them or through Premium Aquatics (you can do Google searches on either). Air Water Ice is another very popular online dealer. I'd also agree with everyone on holding off on the calcium and buffer. It's probably just a waste at this stage, and it's best not to add anything like this to your tank if you're not testing the levels already in your tank. Coraline usually takes at least a couple months to grow significantly in most people's tanks.
 
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