RTN in a pretty well established tank?

Dont kill me because I dont know all the parameters of my tank right off the bat. I did do a "basic 5" test (nitrites, nitrates, alk, ammonia and ph) to which everything came up damn near perfect (8.2 ph, 0.0 Alk, 0 nitrites, 0 nitrates and 3.5 mEq/l) . My tank has been running great for several years. little changes here and there but none within the last few months. I have a couple peppermint shrimp, Tennenti Tang, Foxface Rabbit and a six line. I picked up a few corals at a coral expo a couple weekes ago dipped them in coralRX before putting them in the tank, they themselfs are doing great. All the corals not affected are doing great. It started with one acro then I saw it on a couple then a few more now I see RTN on both my candy corals, one of my acans doesn't look so hot and a few of my zoa colonies are closed up.

I've read about redbugs and flatworms as well as possible metal contamination but I dont see any "pests" can anyone point me in the dirrection for what I'm looking for or what kind of metals I should be testing for. I hate to think I will have to start from scratch but it's looking bleak :worried2:
 
Metals? Copper.

RTN on a candy cane coral? I'm not sure that is even possible since I have never heard of RTN or STN on lps corals (I may be wrong here, but think I'm right).

My guess is someting changed in params that you haven't caught, or you introduced something from the new corals acquired.
 
I agree I've never seen candy corals do it either but the tissue literally peeling off the base toward the head of the coral. Any idea how copper can get in a tank? I have a chiller but Im thinking thats titanium. I'll be shoppinfg for metal tests tomorrow as soon as the stores open. anything else I should target test for in your opinion?
 
I've ruled out just about everything except for voltage. I went as far as setting up a tank in the garage that I planned on transfering everything that wasn't affected into. Then...... "it" seemed to stop killing all my corals. I bumped up my skimmer and my circulation pump times but still want to check voltage. Can anyone provide a definitive reasonable amount of voltage tested from DT water to ground outlet in AC also in mA? Ive been reading article ontop of article and seem to finsd a range of 5v to 45v ?????
 
Wait did no one see he said his alk was 0.0??? Alk should be 7-9 dkh. Check Ca, mag and phosphate levels as well. Do you have good flow?
 
Wait did no one see he said his alk was 0.0??? Alk should be 7-9 dkh. Check Ca, mag and phosphate levels as well. Do you have good flow?

sorry the reading of 0.0 was for ammonia! Dont know how I screwed that up :hmm5: I will def check Ca, Mag and Phosphate tomorrow. Water flow is strong besides my return I have two Koralia evolution powerheads.
 
So voltage checks out. Unfortunately although "it" appeared to have slowed and I thought everything was going to be OK, it seems to be making a second run. Taking out some of my original colonies and leaving some of the moderately new to the somewhat new completely unharmed (some of which are doing better than ever, looking amazing and growing at an alarming rate)

Most recent tests are Mag 1020 (a little low but low enough to cause problems?) Alk 7.4 Cal 350ppm (also a little low) I stopped adding B-Ionic once I noticed the problem so it could be that I should start again at a lower amount just to have the minimum of 400ppm. I was also considering weekly 10% water changes. any thooughts?

Still have a copper and phosphate test coming.
 
Recommend the water changes, I would bump up the mag to ~1300-1400 range (slowly) and the cal to ~420 (slowly). Actually, I've raised both a bit quick with no ill effects (fingers crossed).

Wait did no one see he said his alk was 0.0??? Alk should be 7-9 dkh. Check Ca, mag and phosphate levels as well. Do you have good flow?

I saw :
(8.2 ph, 0.0 Alk, 0 nitrites, 0 nitrates and 3.5 mEq/l)
and my mind caught the meq/L and converted the 0.0 alk to ammonia automatically. :smokin:
 
when checking for stray voltage be sure that your heater is on. I had this problem before. The first few times I tested the heater was not on so the stray voltage did not register....
 
when checking for stray voltage be sure that your heater is on. I had this problem before. The first few times I tested the heater was not on so the stray voltage did not register....

I actually do not have a heater.. at my place I have more trouble keeping the temp down than needing to bring it up. With the chiller it is never above 80.5 and on the very rarest occasion it gets down to 75/76

The results are also in for copper and phosphates and I don't know if I'm happy to say both are zero! I only say I don't know if that makes me happy because at this point I'd settle for any one thing to be wrong so I will know what dirrection to go :hmm2:
 
How did you test for stray voltage, exactly?.

Snap-On multimeter: ground probe in ground of outlet hot probe in sump and DT. I checked AC on settings for A and mA as well as V and mV. I've also read several posts on others with stray voltage. Most were indicating Fish with LLE. I realize that it is not the only way to tell but my fish show no signs of illness. If there is another way to check for the voltage I am ready to give it a shot

Thanx
 
I would look into getting a heater. That's a good temp swing if it does dip into the mid 70s. You want to avoid a temp swing of more than a couple degrees.

Sounds like you on the right track. A lot is blamed on stray voltage. I actually had 30v in my old reef for over a year, no problems. Fish and corals were fine. Found out is was one of my pumps causing it.
 
I would look into getting a heater. That's a good temp swing if it does dip into the mid 70s. You want to avoid a temp swing of more than a couple degrees.

noted.. I will be picking up a heater here pretty quick in an atempt to keep temps a little more stable. Although I've been running this set up for years with out problem, there is always room for improvement.
 
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