Run in new tank?
- Thread starter Steve_B
- Start date
Steve_B
New member
The fish is the ammonia source, you must mean nitrIte. Ammonia tests can't be measured while using PRIME, it won't work properly. Nitrite is the only indicator as to when the cycle is on its way down. All I can say is that it's working and that's good enough for me.
capo larzo
New member
Bio-Spira is the same concept as SeachemStability. Stability in my opinion is a equal if not superior product. I have used both.
The presence of nitrite suggest the cycle is not complete, or after longer periods of time, you may not have enough filtration, whether in the form of a lack of bio media or too little gph/flow rate/turnover. There are also many substances/toxins/chemicals that show up on test kits as nitrite readings (API saltwater test kit). These may be introduced by spraying cologne, perfume, windex, aerosols, etc, or on tank equipment not cleaned when new. This has happened to me twice in the past.
2cents
The presence of nitrite suggest the cycle is not complete, or after longer periods of time, you may not have enough filtration, whether in the form of a lack of bio media or too little gph/flow rate/turnover. There are also many substances/toxins/chemicals that show up on test kits as nitrite readings (API saltwater test kit). These may be introduced by spraying cologne, perfume, windex, aerosols, etc, or on tank equipment not cleaned when new. This has happened to me twice in the past.
2cents
capo larzo
New member
I also use/used outdated nutrafin cycle which is sold for more than half off. It has worked just as well as very new bottles recently manufactured.
So i know from a very experienced LFS owner and my own experience that some bottled bacteria works great well after the expiration date.
So i know from a very experienced LFS owner and my own experience that some bottled bacteria works great well after the expiration date.
Steve_B
New member
"This has happened to me twice in the past.
2cents"
I'll have to give that a 4 cents comment;
I have had similar problems. When the inside surface of my tanks get dirty I clean them down with soft scrub toilet cleaner. Or that may be cleaning stuff for showers and tile, can't remember.spin2:
After that the fishes all look a little stressed.
Anyway, I’m using PRIME and STALIBILITY. All is well and I think the NITRITE is going down. The increments are so close in the test color makes it’s hard to tell on my API test kit. That reading should tell in the next few days if I'm correct.
I use AQARIUM SYSTEMS, the BRAND that makes INSTANT OCIAN salt. I do not however use their MEDS ANYMORE. They discontinued their copper treatment and test kits. Now they have some junk that claims to be able kill AMYLOODINIUM and CRYPTOCARYON CYSTS while still attached to the fishes. It’s called life raft or lifeboat or some silly name. Anything is impossible to work while the parasite is still attached to the fish. It has to be in it’s free swimming stage after the eggs drop off the fish, fall to the substrate hatch and become free swimming. I called AQUARIUM SYSTEMS to find out what happened and how this new substitute med worked. The person at the company had some lame answer that made no sense. I tried it in a situation with the aforementioned to no avail. As far as I know the only way of combating those 2 problems are copper or hypo. I believe that the real copper cure was discounted because most people didn’t know how to use it. Monitor its therapeutic level by testing at least 1x or 2x per day and it failed to work. Hypo is much more easy. Get the salinity down and leave it, no testing required after lowering it to, .9 I think the # was.
Hypo is dangerous as is copper, sometimes not tolerated.
I use Instant Ocean because the SHEDD AQUARIUM here in Chicago uses it. If they use it, that tells me something. They had to dumb down with this life buoy or whatever it is for those that have no idea what they are doing.
I seriously believe with a high degree of probability my method is going to work.
2cents"
I'll have to give that a 4 cents comment;
I have had similar problems. When the inside surface of my tanks get dirty I clean them down with soft scrub toilet cleaner. Or that may be cleaning stuff for showers and tile, can't remember.spin2:
After that the fishes all look a little stressed.
Anyway, I’m using PRIME and STALIBILITY. All is well and I think the NITRITE is going down. The increments are so close in the test color makes it’s hard to tell on my API test kit. That reading should tell in the next few days if I'm correct.
I use AQARIUM SYSTEMS, the BRAND that makes INSTANT OCIAN salt. I do not however use their MEDS ANYMORE. They discontinued their copper treatment and test kits. Now they have some junk that claims to be able kill AMYLOODINIUM and CRYPTOCARYON CYSTS while still attached to the fishes. It’s called life raft or lifeboat or some silly name. Anything is impossible to work while the parasite is still attached to the fish. It has to be in it’s free swimming stage after the eggs drop off the fish, fall to the substrate hatch and become free swimming. I called AQUARIUM SYSTEMS to find out what happened and how this new substitute med worked. The person at the company had some lame answer that made no sense. I tried it in a situation with the aforementioned to no avail. As far as I know the only way of combating those 2 problems are copper or hypo. I believe that the real copper cure was discounted because most people didn’t know how to use it. Monitor its therapeutic level by testing at least 1x or 2x per day and it failed to work. Hypo is much more easy. Get the salinity down and leave it, no testing required after lowering it to, .9 I think the # was.
Hypo is dangerous as is copper, sometimes not tolerated.
I use Instant Ocean because the SHEDD AQUARIUM here in Chicago uses it. If they use it, that tells me something. They had to dumb down with this life buoy or whatever it is for those that have no idea what they are doing.
I seriously believe with a high degree of probability my method is going to work.
namxas
Things With Stings R Us!
FWIW, and not to go too far OT, the trouble with hypo is that once you get the tank down to 1.09 SG, you REALLY need to monitor the pH, as it's very tuff to maintain in a hypo tank. I know this because we used to use hypo a lot. We're finding that quinine sulfate (Crypto Pro) does a much better job at killing ecto parasites and doesn't seem to trash the biofiltration system too badly.
Steve_B
New member
I've only used hypo a couple of times. One of my fishes went completely down hill very rapidly after adding copper. I had to pull him out at that moment and into untreated water from another tank. I seriously doubted he would make it in the bucket he was in with just an air stone for water movement. He was just floating around being moved by the air stone. Really no life signs except very shallow respiration. That was it, no movement of his own. The next morning to my HUGH Surprise he was swimming around like nothing happened. That was years ago and I believe one of the few times and the only reason I used it.
I haven't had an AMYLOODINIUM or CRYPTOCARYON problem for a while.
It's really not so off topic since we are takling about different forms of doing things.
BTW, it's hard to tell with the colors so close on my nitrite test, but it looks like it may be pretty close to 2.0 PPM. :bounce3:
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Steve_B
New member
It took 10 days for my tank to hit 0 PPM nitrite after I started using prime and stability. I have no idea how high the nitrite was to begin with before I started this method. My API test kit only goes as high as 5 PPM. I know that it was at least that high. I must have communicated with a SEACHEM tech over 20 xs during the course of that time. I had enough confidence in this method that I gave the damsels back to the LFS and got a Midas blenny for $40 to cycle out the tank. it seems to work, absolutely no apparent stress and it eats like a horse. It looks like prime does work.
I told the tech it should say
PRIME SAVES LIFE
:celeb2:
