If you add Ozone to the 9010 you want to use a very low dose so carbon use is not necessary. With high doses this becomes necessary but high doses almost completely eliminate the function of the skimmer as all waste is oxidized into non skimmable components. Use 1 mg/hr per 10-25 gallons and don't worry about it. You will get the clarity you desire. Just keep in mind that if you are not using a dryer the real ozone production will be roughly half the set value.
I have ozone running in my internally mounted 9005. The ozonizer I have only has 3 settings low, medium, and high. I assume that low produces roughly 8mg as it is a 25mg unit. The manufacturer claims that it does not require an air drier. I am running it on a timer for 15min intervals with a 45min rest, for a total of 6 hours per day. Since I am unable to dial it down to 1mg/hr I am probably dosing double your recommendation, but for only 15min at a time. That is if the humidity really isn't a factor and that the low setting is 33% output, could be less or more, who knows? I still get skimmate, just lighter, and less. The yellow tint is being reduced slowly so I am guessing it is not too much O3 since I have seen yellow tint cleared overnight with higher doses of O3. I can't check the ORP as of yet, but will soon. I have the flow control door wide open. I do get a few micro bubbles in the tank with the door fully open but not enough to bother me. With it closed there are a lot less. After that long-winded post I will finally ask my question. Should I run the skimmer at 70% or 5% to make sure none of the O3 gets into the tank or does the O3 dissipate fast enough at such low levels that I need not worry?
O3 is very unstable, it breaks down quickly and at such a low dose there will always be something for it to react with so I would have virtually no concern about it in the water. High levels of ozone in the air can be harmful to your health, the first obvious symptom of a high level in your home is a migraine headache. On the other hand, what most of those ionic air cleaners do is generate low doses of ozone, it is very effective at removing odors. If you are running less than 25 mg/hr and it is in a large aquarium in a large well ventilated room I would not have any concerns. When running a low dose it doesn't make much sense to invest in an ORP meter. Humidity affects all ozonizers production regardless of manufacturers claims, it may affect some less than others but you will only get the maximum production with dry air.
The ozonizer is an old corona spark type, probably 15 years old. I was suspect to the claim of no air drier needed. It is a Coralife unit that was new in the package with a good layer of dust at my LFS. I got it for next to nothing and thought it would be a good way to try O3 out without dropping too much money. The tank is in my basement, which is a large unfinished space, and has a fresh air supply. If I let the O3 run for a while I can detect a hint of it in the air, but when it runs for only 15min at a time I have to put my nose over the skimmer to smell it. The tank however is not large, <40, am I still ok? There are two 6055s in there so it certainly not stagnant. As always, your advice is much appreciated.
So, I got my ozonizer today. Just one quick question. There is a bunch of air going into the ozonizer and much less coming out. Is this normal? Going into the Tunze there seems to be little air. I am using a Coralife Luft Air Pump going into a Red Sea Aquazone Plus 50MG/HR Ozonizer. I have the Qoznizer dialed down to 12 MG/HR.
Tunze recommends 50l/hr for airflow into the ozone nipple. The amount of air being pumped in should not exceed what the venturi draws in. Any additional air needed by the venturi should be drawn in through the larger nipple. Do the Luft pumps still have a rheostat so you can dial it back? I just have a tiny 1.5w pump for a 5g tank feeding mine.