Sakrete play sand

imchris

Member
I went to my local Home Depot looking for the Southdown play sand. The only play sand they had was a brand call Sakrete. It's still play sand and it's still very fine. Will this work? What info should I look for on the bag to tell me if it's any good? Thanks. -Chris
 
Not sure about the info on the bag, but most likely it is silica sand. You can tell if you buy a bag and put a small amount in a saucer, then add some vinegar. It should produce a bit of foam/bubbles if it is calcium based. If not, it's silica you might not want to use it. Hope this helps a bit.
 
Well I tried the vinegar test and no bubbles(unless I'm supposed to wait longer). All the bag says is natural sand. Screened and cleaned. No mention of the type of sand it is. Has anyone ever tried using this stuff or know any specifics on it? Thanks. -Chris
 
i have been using that sand in my tanks for a few years,they dont make the southdown brand anymore, there are tons of threads about this on here. basically the sand is ok to use, its not white and pretty as the other sand, but for less than $4 for 50lbs, i dealt with the color, just seed it with some live sand and it will become live with time, i have had no problems on my reefs using this for years. so dont be afraid of it, tons of people here use it.
 
its 100% silica based. I'm using a similar sand sold at Lowes, white, sugar sized and its a silica base as well. So far no problems, not too sure what the big deal is. Silica is glass, just in a finer form. My tank is made of glass.... I haven't had any weird alage outbreaks yet. Fish seem to be ok and the water parameters are all great.

Just my .02
 
I've got White Silica also and just one problem. The sand works great, but if you pick any up with your magnate cleaner when you get real close to the sand bed - IT WILL DEFINITELY SCRATCH GLASS. So be real careful with your magnate cleaner. Just my 2 cents.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13840851#post13840851 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Janice12
If not, it's silica you might not want to use it.

Don't confuse silica with silicates and how diatoms utilize the later. Silicon is one of the most abundant elements in the earth's crust, second only to oxygen. Though it is found at such great quantities, most of this silicon is not available to organisms due to its insoluble nature (in rocks, for example). When silicon is in solution it is usually present in the form of orthosilicic acid (Si(OH)4). Since diatoms need silicon in order to build their frustules, they are usually found in regions where there is an abundance of orthosilicic acid. However, though populations of diatoms tend to build rapidly in the presence of silicon, there is usually a sharp decline after the silicon has been depleted. There is a variability amongst diatoms with respect to how much silicon they need to uptake. Thus, those diatoms that are not as dependent on silicate are able to prosper even after their silicon-dependent counterparts die off.

Silicon is taken up at different rates throughout the cell cycle. Thus, you can guess that it is taken up more quickly when the frustule is being created (the new valves and girdle elements). Silicon is acquired by the diatom in an active, carrier-mediated manner across the plasma membrane.

The most obvious use of silicon mentioned above is the use of silicon in the siliceous components of the cell (valves, girdle elements). The cell wall is constructed by silica deposition vesicles (SDV) with membranes called silicalemmas. The orthosilicic acid and other forms of silicon in solution are transported to theses SDVs, and polymerization occurs in order to create solid deposits of silica. This polymerization may be sparked by a change in pH or silicon in solution or a host of other factors. The SDV have extensions that become connected, allowing expansion of the cell wall and its associated silicalemma. It should be noted that silica is not laid down in the raphe slits, and it may be prevented from doing so through the presence of raphe fibers.

It may not be as obvious that silicon can be employed in the metabolic processes of diatoms as well. Without silicate, diatom cells cannot divide, and its capacity to perform energy producing processes (photosynthesis and glycolysis) are diminished. In addition, synthesis of DNA, protein, and chlorophyll halts. These effects may be a result of silicate's role in the regulation of some enzymes.

Therefore silica sand is perfectly fine for use in our tanks.
 
since the sand is "glass" and will scratch glass what about sand sifting Gobys? Is it in any way harmful for their gills?
 
I don't that any of the home improvement stores carry calcium based sand anymore. I searched and searched for the longest time. According to tons of forum reading, the last of these bags were sold out around 2007-2008. Rumor is that the companies realized they could make a ton more cash off of the hobby than selling this stuff as play sand. Bummer! FWIW plenty of "reef chemists" on here openly admit that the calcium sand provides little to no buffering at all. Our water just doesn't get a pH low enough to really make a difference from what I understand.
 
FWIW plenty of "reef chemists" on here openly admit that the calcium sand provides little to no buffering at all. Our water just doesn't get a pH low enough to really make a difference from what I understand.

Interesting I hadn't read this before and thought that I had read that it did act as a buffer. I even recall reading someone saying that you should do partial sand replacement after a couple years or so because the sand would lose its buffering ability. I also read something about sound becoming hard in bottoms of tanks do the chemical reactions involved in buffering. It does however make sense to me that the our normal pH would not be low enough to really react with the calcium. I will have to research this some more as it seems interesting to me...and seems like it should be some fairly straight forward chemistry.
 
All of the things you mention are developed in deep layers of sand. When using a DSB (Deep Sand Bed) of >4''s the lower levels become anaerobic and the pH drops significantly; low enough to dissolve calcium based grains of sand. Without the proper fauna such as pods and worms the sand will not move on the required microscopic pathways and develop clumps. There are many articles on the benefits and hassles of a DSB. A DSB in the main system greatly reduces the fish and animal availability as most will decimate the needed fauna or burrow in and disrupt the levels of sand. Ideally no more than 2''s is best for the display tank. Those fortunate enough to have an equipment room will have a larger volume of water (than the main tank) with a DSB and often marine macros. With no fish and little to no hermits, the DSB will be home to incredible amounts of pods and worms with micro fauna being swept into the main system as an alternate food source. The macro and the lower levels of sand are an ideal nutrient reduction tool.
 
Interesting I hadn't read this before and thought that I had read that it did act as a buffer. I even recall reading someone saying that you should do partial sand replacement after a couple years or so because the sand would lose its buffering ability. I also read something about sound becoming hard in bottoms of tanks do the chemical reactions involved in buffering. It does however make sense to me that the our normal pH would not be low enough to really react with the calcium. I will have to research this some more as it seems interesting to me...and seems like it should be some fairly straight forward chemistry.

My understanding about the hardening is that it is anaerobic bacteria doing their thing. Frankly I just listen to what the people say that deal with this sort of thing for a living (namely Randy).
 
You need to read a bit more; first off Randy doesn't do this for a living; he is a knowledgeable chemist that is also a hobbyist. Yes the anaerobic activity can dissolve ca based sand and without the proper fauna sifting through it will form compacted zones. If the sand is disturbed rapidly or in large amounts such as by digging wrasse or by a hobbyist's hand, the aerobic zones will mix and disturb the anaerobic and not only lose the nutrient conversion ability but may also release excess nutrients back into the water column. If you don't believe a balance of anaerobic zones and fauna will work for your tank, go check out the ocean, its been successful for a while now. The key to the tank is balance.
 
"If you don't believe a balance of anaerobic zones and fauna will work for your tank, go check out the ocean, its been successful for a while now."
lmao :)
 
If the sand is disturbed rapidly or in large amounts such as by digging wrasse or by a hobbyist's hand, the aerobic zones will mix and disturb the anaerobic and not only lose the nutrient conversion ability but may also release excess nutrients back into the water column.

does nutrients ever over accumulates in the dsb resulting in reduced efficiency of the anaerobic to a point where it will just be a nitrate factory? if i use a remote dsb, should i be thinking about replacing the bucket of sand each year or so?
 
I believe the typical life cycle of DSB is around 5 years ina properly maintained aquarium [one not neglected] with that said many have gone longer and some should have been changed out a long time before.

I run my DSB in my 100g DT with the bottom 2"-3" of silica based sand in the bottom and then another 3" of argonite sand on top. Its been a great balance without having to worry about the bottom part clumping or disolving. what little CUC I run stays in the top 1/2"
 
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