Save a Reefer, save a Reef: Money saving tips and options for ALL reefers.

SunnyX

New member
Sadly, more and more reefers have been leaving the hobby due to financial stress. You can see it all over the forum and selling board.Still, there are many who have not left the hobby but are on the edge. Hopefully, we can help find a solution to this and save these reefers.

I was over at my local Michigan Reef Forum and a poster had posted about ways of saving money. I thought it was a good one especially for some reefers during this downturn in the economy.

Please take a moment and share some tips for saving money.
Here are some of my thoughts and tips:


The #1 saver for me has been cutting back on energy consumption. When designing my new system I looked to European aquariums for inspiration. Energy is expensive in Europe so the tanks MUST be efficient.

When I went from my 225gl In-wall to my 100gl rimless my energy bill was cut by over 65%! I am saving over $100+/mo compared to the old tank.

1. My old tank was horrifically inefficient. I had over 1400W of MH/VHO lighting over the old tank, I now have 378W with T5. If I had used T5 on the old tank I could have been fine with only 640W!
By switching over to T5 I no longer have to run fans or use energy hogging dehumidifiers. Not no mention the money I am saving on RO/DI filters because of the lack of evaporation.

2. I got rid of ALL inefficient pumps. My old tank had a Reeflo Dart for a main system pump which was 350W and was running 24/7. I now use an Ehiem 1260 which draws a mere 65W. The Reeflo was overkill! The Tunzes(and Vortech next week :D ) are a much better option then a large system pump. In my old tank the water was turning over so fast that my skimmer wasn't working as well as it does now.

3. I got rid of ALL unnecessary toys and gadgets such as Ca reactors, Kalk Stirrers , etc. Many reefers in Europe have had great success with a simple two part or Balling method dosing. I use "Randy's Two Part" and have found it a better option then any gadget I have run. My sump now has nothing other than a mesh bag of carbon, system pump, and skimmer feed pump.

4. Europe, always being ten steps ahead of us when it comes to reefing and over there it is all about bacteria driven systems. With a simple dosing of Vodka as a carbon source along with some bacteria, such as Microbacter7, you will have no need for ozone, UV, and will save on salt and Carbon. With a cleaner system you will not need to change your water as much.

5. You need to maintain your equipment. When pumps get dirty and clogged up they tend to run hotter, less efficient, and will then need to be replaced much sooner than normal. Once a month I soak my pumps in vinegar and scrub them down. Every six months I disassemble my skimmer and clean it out. Proper maintenance will save you money down the road by not having to purchase new equipment.


My point is You CAN do more with less. Keep it simple. :D

Run a "greener" tank and you will save money and maybe even help save the planet. ;)
 
Last edited:
Great thread, my entire tank save the lights and heater uses less than 110W total.

eheim pump= 43W
3 tunze nano stream= 48W
ATB small with airstar mini =17W

I run 600w of halides but i want to switch to a 6 bulb t5 to save on electricity and reduce heat further.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14577488#post14577488 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GSMguy
Great thread, my entire tank save the lights and heater uses less than 110W total.

eheim pump= 43W
3 tunze nano stream= 48W
ATB small with airstar mini =17W

I run 600w of halides but i want to switch to a 6 bulb t5 to save on electricity and reduce heat further.

110W....Impressive!

You will love T5's when you switch over. :thumbsup:
 
You said that you could have been running your old 225gal in wall tank on 640 watts, which is a bit under 3watts/gal if I am doing my math correctly. Is that with or without SPS? Just curious.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14577571#post14577571 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by FadeToGrey
You said that you could have been running your old 225gal in wall tank on 640 watts, which is a bit under 3watts/gal if I am doing my math correctly. Is that with or without SPS? Just curious.

Hello :D

First off, throw the watt per gallon(WPG) rule out the window. That "rule" along with the live rock lbs/gal "rule" are now archaic. These were good in the past to aid out new reefers, but now we are better educated and know that this is simply not the truth.

There was a time when I was running only 500W of MH over my 225fl with great results. That would be 2.22W/gl.

Its not the quantity of light, it is the quality. :D

I don't want to get too off topic here. If you want, I can answer any and all questions that pertain to reefkeeping.

Just send me a PM. ;)
 
A reeflo dart runs at 350 watts? Where are you getting that?

Shouldn't it be around half of that?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14577820#post14577820 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BigJay
A reeflo dart runs at 350 watts? Where are you getting that?

Shouldn't it be around half of that?

My mistake, its actually 155W. :o :o Still, I cut the wattage by 60% going with the Ehiem. :D
 
I bought a kill-a-watt meter, which was really telling as to where the energy use was. I do still use a calc reactor, skimmer, etc., but my 200 gallon setup costs me under $40 a month, which includes a frag setup. T5 lighting, effecient pumps/powerheads, fans for cooling... my old 60 gallon setup cost me more than this new setup.
 
i see 50G setups on this site all the time that run over 400W in accessories alone and they wonder why they need a 1/2 hp chiller to boot.
 
I almost packed it in last week with my $480 hydro bimonthly bill!!
I can't really downsize as I have a 500g tank and would lose my shirt trying to sell everything.so,, I designed my tank to have only 1 x 400w MH on one side while the darker side I'm trying to replicate caves and deep ocean etc.. so I removed 400w of halide and 330 watts of VHO should help.
I also ditched the dryer, wife wasn't happy but hey, everyone has to sacrifice:D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14577867#post14577867 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SunnyX
My mistake, its actually 155W. :o :o Still, I cut the wattage by 60% going with the Ehiem. :D

My dart powers the return lines, and a reactor manifold containing two media reactors and additional flow in the refugium. So it's actually worth having the additional power in my setup, and it costs the same power that running around two light bulbs in the house.

I've also got it dialed back a bit, so there's additional power savings there.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14579013#post14579013 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BigJay
My dart powers the return lines, and a reactor manifold containing two media reactors and additional flow in the refugium. So it's actually worth having the additional power in my setup, and it costs the same power that running around two light bulbs in the house.

I've also got it dialed back a bit, so there's additional power savings there.


You my friend are very efficient. :thumbsup:

The only issue I had with the pump was it died twice on me and always ran hot. But, it has a great warranty so I was covered. :D
 
I live in a part of the country where electricity is still reasonable, but it's hot here and we need to run our A/C a lot in the warmer months.
My electricity bills used to be $300/mnth in the summer. They have raised our rates a little bit this year, so I imagined higher rates this upcoming summer.

With my 180, I have always strived for efficiency. It has had an eheim return pump from the start, and Tunze streams for flow. The only inefficient areas were my lights and skimmer. The skimmer was 150-watts, and the lights were 1000-watts at their peak usage(3 250-watt halides and 4 39-watt Actinics).

So, last fall, I decided to try T5's out, and upgraded my skimmer. My new T5 fixture uses 468 watts, and the new skimmer uses an advertised 40 watts. I think the change helps me two-fold. Lower wattage means less electrical consumption, and less heat means that my AC has to work a little less.

I do miss the shimmer of halides though. I'm contemplating switching to 150-watt halides. 3 of them would still be at an acceptable wattage, and they would be plenty of light. I'm not an sps person anymore, and prefer simple softies with more 'complicated' fish. :)
 
I don't know what my tank costs by itself, but my monthly bill is around $40 (a little more in the winter though with heating) and I would guess my tank is probably 75% of that. Electricity is expensive in CA, so I need to save where ever I can.

With the vortech and tunze, I don't have any big pumps and with the T5s, I don't need a chiller, so together I think this helps a lot.

I work with enough big pumps and equipment at work. I don't need to bring those home with me. haha :D
 
1. Cut photoperiod to 6 hours on halides, you don't really need more than that. Set a rolling 6-hour photoperiod for the whole tank with the leftmost halide coming on first, then two hours later the next turning on, and two hours later the last coming on. Then after two more hours the first turns off, etc.

2. Build a manifold to feed reactors, refugiums, and provide more flow from the main return pump. Remove as many pumps and powerheads from the water as possible.

3. Run small fans to reduce heat, so that the chiller stays off.

4. Buy supplies online if possible. bulkreefsupply is a good vendor for things like carbon and GFO.

5. Feed less, skim wetter, and reduce water changes to once per month.
 
4. Buy supplies online if possible. bulkreefsupply is a good vendor for things like carbon and GFO

Bulk reef supply; for the amount of Ca. alk, carbon, FeOx I use on my 215, Im saving millions!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15262213#post15262213 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BigJay
1. Cut photoperiod to 6 hours on halides, you don't really need more than that. Set a rolling 6-hour photoperiod for the whole tank with the leftmost halide coming on first, then two hours later the next turning on, and two hours later the last coming on. Then after two more hours the first turns off, etc.

3. Run small fans to reduce heat, so that the chiller stays off.


About 4 months ago I cut back the MHs on one of my tanks to 6 hours from 10, besides saving money, have better growth and color.

Clip on fans work wonders. It allows me to have 2*250 over my 58 and 75 with no chiller.


To add, allow a larger daily temp swing, I have a 5* change each day -- less fan/chiller use if you allow the temps to get a bit higher (( all my tanks go up to 83* ))
 
Heres some energy saving tips.

Trade me your halides for my T5's, lol.

But seriously, change the air filter on your HVAC systems. I know its off topic but you would be surprised on your energy savings if you change it every month like clock work. Especially if you are like 90% of people and forget about changing it for 6 months.

Also try to get your A-Coil cleaned. Should cost about $100 if its decently accessible. Your A/C will run like 50% less from having the extra air flow.
 
Back
Top