modified the stock glass sump that comes with 50 gallon system.
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I used fishing line (20 lbs rated line), to slice the silicone off the baffles to remove them. It was easier than I expected, like slicing butter with hot knife.
removed the baffles between skimmer and refugium section, and reattached the larger glass piece back to create a 3 gallon ATO reservoir. Hopefully that should last me a week based on my current ATO water consumption on my current tank.
Somewhere in this thread I saw someone use a 2.5 gallon container that still fits inside the cabinet. That was my initial plan, but I think this mod will be better, since I get 3 gallons and frees up the space in front of the sump. I want to avoid having the ATO container outside the cabinet, or building another cabinet for additional stuff. I will try to keep everything inside the cabinet.
just watch my video above a few posts as I show my 150 plumbing...
Why is tapatalk so random with the way photos are posted? I didn't want to post a pic the size of Texas? Anyone know a fix?
I'm doing my homework for a new tank purchase. I originally dismissed the SCA tanks as I thought they only offered them with the internal overflows and the bottom panel drilled. After contacting Steve at SCA, I have learned that they will make you whatever you want. I am looking at going with a eurobraced 150 (5x2x2), drilled for a ghost overflow. So I'm curious how those of you who've had an SCA tank for a while like it. Is the build quality there and holding up long term? Any thing you would do differently?
I did just that and ended up selling the euro braced tank and getting a rimless 15mm 5x2x2 predrilled for ghost overflow. The water level on the euro braced version is already a bit low(glass bracing is glued 1.5" below the top), so if you still predrill it for a ghost, it will set the water level another inch or so lower. The rimless version with ghost is set to have water level at 1.5" below the top which is nice and looks super sharp.
How long ago did you get your eurobraced tank? I wonder if they changed the design. The pictures I've seen show the bracing starting about what looks like a 1/2" down from the top edge of the glass. For some reason on the 150's they lap the adjacent glass strips that make up the bracing, assuming for strength. Having about 3" of glass above the waterline is a no go for me and I was avoiding going rimless to help keep the snails in the tank and control salt creep. Thank you for the heads up on the bracing location.
I wonder if notching the bracing to get the overflow to sit higher is an option?
The eurobraced tank came in last year, around august. I doubt they changed the design... After I received the tank, decided to remove the internal overflow, drilled myself the holes for the syndergy overflow as high as possible on the rear glass panel, touching the top glass bracing. That was when I realized the water level was going to be way low for my taste, around 2.5" below the top.
I called Steve at SC and he mentioned the rimless would be a better option. To be honest, even though I didnt like the internal overflow, I hesitated when I first got the braced tank, since quality a craftmanship was really top notch. A braced tank also has its advantages, such as making it harder for waves to go over the glass.
I also wondered why they glue the bracing so low down the glass? Im not sure if you can get those placed different from standard, but I could be wrong.
I found this picture of a 150 here on RC. It looks like the bracing is installed almost at the top of the glass. Was yours different from this one?
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/10/23/ba5azase.jpg
If I could get this with a ghost overflow versus their internal one, I'd be a happy camper.