SC Aquariums Owners Thread

modified the stock glass sump that comes with 50 gallon system.

11a7b6bd4f602ee47f0ac916e176c293.jpg


I used fishing line (20 lbs rated line), to slice the silicone off the baffles to remove them. It was easier than I expected, like slicing butter with hot knife.
removed the baffles between skimmer and refugium section, and reattached the larger glass piece back to create a 3 gallon ATO reservoir. Hopefully that should last me a week based on my current ATO water consumption on my current tank.

Somewhere in this thread I saw someone use a 2.5 gallon container that still fits inside the cabinet. That was my initial plan, but I think this mod will be better, since I get 3 gallons and frees up the space in front of the sump. I want to avoid having the ATO container outside the cabinet, or building another cabinet for additional stuff. I will try to keep everything inside the cabinet.
 
modified the stock glass sump that comes with 50 gallon system.

11a7b6bd4f602ee47f0ac916e176c293.jpg


I used fishing line (20 lbs rated line), to slice the silicone off the baffles to remove them. It was easier than I expected, like slicing butter with hot knife.
removed the baffles between skimmer and refugium section, and reattached the larger glass piece back to create a 3 gallon ATO reservoir. Hopefully that should last me a week based on my current ATO water consumption on my current tank.

Somewhere in this thread I saw someone use a 2.5 gallon container that still fits inside the cabinet. That was my initial plan, but I think this mod will be better, since I get 3 gallons and frees up the space in front of the sump. I want to avoid having the ATO container outside the cabinet, or building another cabinet for additional stuff. I will try to keep everything inside the cabinet.

That's a pretty smart idea. Only issue is it might be a pain to fill it. I'm assuming you'll have to pump water up into the chamber? On my 90g there isn't enough space to dump water from a jug into the sump unless I use small 1 gal containers. I guess with a 3 gal reservoir it might not be too bad to dump 3 one gal jugs in.
 
on my current tank setup, I have a 5 gallon water container inside the cabinet, and I use maxijet to pump water from a 5 gallon bucket into the ATO container. So I figure I would be doing the same with this new setup.

There are many acrylic sumps that come with built in ATO reservoir. The icecap sump has a section for ATO water, though their smallest model, which is slightly smaller in size compared to the stock glass sump, only comes with 3 liters ATO capacity, that's not even 1 gallon. The next icecap sump size up, is bigger than the stock glass sump, and has 3 gallon ATO reservoir.

I'll see if 3 gallons will work for me. The section is 4" x 16" x 11.5". The glass panel size is 16" x 11.75". I initially planned to get a quarter inch cut glass 16" x 12.5" to optimize the reservoir capacity. I got a quote of $18 for it, and figured I will only get like an extra 26 oz of water capacity.
 
Does anyone have a good picture of what their plumbing looks like underneath the center overflow of one of these 150 gallon SCA tanks?

Thank you!
 
Upadte to my 50 pnp. I got the inside of the stand painted and the outside restrained with 3 coats of the ebony stain they use. Next I will do multiple coats of varnish, gloss to the inside semi gloss to the outside. Then start building ATO and electrical cabinets.
be90bf3a0c32c9108d37cae1834d45d2.jpg


Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 
always pick small. anything larger will be too big too display on a computer browser.
and you also want to turn your picture so it is right side up.
 
I'll have to pay attention as to what image I'm selecting next time, I don't remember it offering me a selection though. Thanks again and sorry for blowing up your desk tops lol

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 
I'm doing my homework for a new tank purchase. I originally dismissed the SCA tanks as I thought they only offered them with the internal overflows and the bottom panel drilled. After contacting Steve at SCA, I have learned that they will make you whatever you want. I am looking at going with a eurobraced 150 (5x2x2), drilled for a ghost overflow. So I'm curious how those of you who've had an SCA tank for a while like it. Is the build quality there and holding up long term? Any thing you would do differently?
 
I'm doing my homework for a new tank purchase. I originally dismissed the SCA tanks as I thought they only offered them with the internal overflows and the bottom panel drilled. After contacting Steve at SCA, I have learned that they will make you whatever you want. I am looking at going with a eurobraced 150 (5x2x2), drilled for a ghost overflow. So I'm curious how those of you who've had an SCA tank for a while like it. Is the build quality there and holding up long term? Any thing you would do differently?

I did just that and ended up selling the euro braced tank and getting a rimless 15mm 5x2x2 predrilled for ghost overflow. The water level on the euro braced version is already a bit low(glass bracing is glued 1.5" below the top), so if you still predrill it for a ghost, it will set the water level another inch or so lower. The rimless version with ghost is set to have water level at 1.5" below the top which is nice and looks super sharp.
 
I did just that and ended up selling the euro braced tank and getting a rimless 15mm 5x2x2 predrilled for ghost overflow. The water level on the euro braced version is already a bit low(glass bracing is glued 1.5" below the top), so if you still predrill it for a ghost, it will set the water level another inch or so lower. The rimless version with ghost is set to have water level at 1.5" below the top which is nice and looks super sharp.

How long ago did you get your eurobraced tank? I wonder if they changed the design. The pictures I've seen show the bracing starting about what looks like a 1/2" down from the top edge of the glass. For some reason on the 150's they lap the adjacent glass strips that make up the bracing, assuming for strength. Having about 3" of glass above the waterline is a no go for me and I was avoiding going rimless to help keep the snails in the tank and control salt creep. Thank you for the heads up on the bracing location.

I wonder if notching the bracing to get the overflow to sit higher is an option?
 
How long ago did you get your eurobraced tank? I wonder if they changed the design. The pictures I've seen show the bracing starting about what looks like a 1/2" down from the top edge of the glass. For some reason on the 150's they lap the adjacent glass strips that make up the bracing, assuming for strength. Having about 3" of glass above the waterline is a no go for me and I was avoiding going rimless to help keep the snails in the tank and control salt creep. Thank you for the heads up on the bracing location.

I wonder if notching the bracing to get the overflow to sit higher is an option?

The eurobraced tank came in last year, around august. I doubt they changed the design... After I received the tank, decided to remove the internal overflow, drilled myself the holes for the syndergy overflow as high as possible on the rear glass panel, touching the top glass bracing. That was when I realized the water level was going to be way low for my taste, around 2.5" below the top.

I called Steve at SC and he mentioned the rimless would be a better option. To be honest, even though I didnt like the internal overflow, I hesitated when I first got the braced tank, since quality a craftmanship was really top notch. A braced tank also has its advantages, such as making it harder for waves to go over the glass.

I also wondered why they glue the bracing so low down the glass? Im not sure if you can get those placed different from standard, but I could be wrong.
 
The eurobraced tank came in last year, around august. I doubt they changed the design... After I received the tank, decided to remove the internal overflow, drilled myself the holes for the syndergy overflow as high as possible on the rear glass panel, touching the top glass bracing. That was when I realized the water level was going to be way low for my taste, around 2.5" below the top.

I called Steve at SC and he mentioned the rimless would be a better option. To be honest, even though I didnt like the internal overflow, I hesitated when I first got the braced tank, since quality a craftmanship was really top notch. A braced tank also has its advantages, such as making it harder for waves to go over the glass.

I also wondered why they glue the bracing so low down the glass? Im not sure if you can get those placed different from standard, but I could be wrong.

I found this picture of a 150 here on RC. It looks like the bracing is installed almost at the top of the glass. Was yours different from this one?

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/10/23/ba5azase.jpg

If I could get this with a ghost overflow versus their internal one, I'd be a happy camper.
 
Measuring from the top of the bracing to the top edge on my 150, the side bracing is 1/4in. from the top and the front and back are 3/4in from the top. Bought it during their sale on that particular tank in December '16.
 
I found this picture of a 150 here on RC. It looks like the bracing is installed almost at the top of the glass. Was yours different from this one?

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/10/23/ba5azase.jpg

If I could get this with a ghost overflow versus their internal one, I'd be a happy camper.

I have a pic of the eurobraced tank with a ghost overflow here in this thread somewhere.
It is easy to see where the bracing is and the overflow. I will try to find it and post it
 
Back
Top