SC Aquariums Owners Thread
- Thread starter OceanWolf
- Start date
Gotcha. Thanks for the clarification and dimensions. Seems like the lights would work then.
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michael.lemke
New member
Just received my custom 190ish and the build quality is fantastic on the tank! The stand is just ok. Overall very happy!!!
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Xxero
New member
Just received my custom 190ish and the build quality is fantastic on the tank! The stand is just ok. Overall very happy!!!
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Very nice! :thumbsup:
dickeybrazil
New member
I like the clean look of the stand. What is it made out of? Was it a custom order? I haven't seen white as an option on their site.
Just received my custom 190ish and the build quality is fantastic on the tank! The stand is just ok. Overall very happy!!!
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michael.lemke
New member
The stand is hard wood. It's all custom. They will do pretty much whatever you want. I️ wanted the look of a Red Sea reefer but deeper and without the internal overflow. Talk to Steve. He'll help ya out.
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Just received my custom 190ish and the build quality is fantastic on the tank! The stand is just ok. Overall very happy!!!
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Really nice. Whats the dimensions?
michael.lemke
New member
For my current 66g was plumbed as a herbie with a cepex ball valve on the main drain and one on the return. Even though they are the highest quality ball valves I found it difficult to fine tune the plumbing. So, for the 150g I'm going to switch to the spears gate valve. Do I need one on the return AND one on the main drain?
FLSharkvictim
New member
SC Custom Rimless 150 with a 20'' Synergy External Overflow box
SC Custom Rimless 150 with a 20'' Synergy External Overflow box
Here is a update on my SC Custom Rimless 150 with a 20'' Synergy External Overflow box which will run 1.5'' drains and 1'' returns to 3/4''. I'm going to float the canopy so you will not be able to see my Hydra HD 52 and my Two Hydra twenty sixes. I am about ready to start the plumbing on this bad boy!
SC Custom Rimless 150 with a 20'' Synergy External Overflow box
Here is a update on my SC Custom Rimless 150 with a 20'' Synergy External Overflow box which will run 1.5'' drains and 1'' returns to 3/4''. I'm going to float the canopy so you will not be able to see my Hydra HD 52 and my Two Hydra twenty sixes. I am about ready to start the plumbing on this bad boy!
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Got my 150 in the house today with some help from some co-workers. I had the foam pad on the stand but as the tank was being slid on it just pushed it off. So, it's on the stand without any pad under it. Am I doomed or just carry on? I don't know how two of us would ever lift it again to get something under it.
Next question...I purchased an RO Varios 6 for my return pump but have the opportunity to purchase a used Waveline DC10000 Gen 2...would this be a better option?
I did purchase the Triton sump though am not necessarily sold on going Triton just yet, I just wanted a big refugium area.
I've read of some issues and significant head loss with the Varios pumps and might be nice to try to get the required 10x turnover Triton wants.
Thoughts and opinions?
I did purchase the Triton sump though am not necessarily sold on going Triton just yet, I just wanted a big refugium area.
I've read of some issues and significant head loss with the Varios pumps and might be nice to try to get the required 10x turnover Triton wants.
Thoughts and opinions?
soulpatch
New member
I honestly do not see the appeal to Triton method. Spend a ton on elements and such to keep water at certain levels and if one item happens to crash then the system quickly falls apart like what happened to D2Mini and many others.
I run a large refugium but rely on calcium reactor and water changes. Set it and forget it IMHO...
I run a large refugium but rely on calcium reactor and water changes. Set it and forget it IMHO...
soulpatch
New member
You are not doomed persay but the pad protects against imperfections in the stand that could cause pressure points. Also required for his warranty.
Personally I would go with a yoga mat or neoprene pad but I would have something under there.
I agree, not sold on it either. I really just wanted the large fuge area for growing macros, but that's probably about it.
will the Varios cut it or should I be looking at the Waveline either way?
I think I'm going to pick up some suction cups. Two of us should be able to lift each end and get something slid under there that way. Even if we have to cut it in half in the middle I believe it should be fine. The middle isn't generally where the pressure points are anyway. Seem like a solid plan?
Chicagoreef2016
New member
I am trying to determine if Triton or ATI Essentials are worth it; in theory it makes sense to me. But my Aquavitro Salinity salt has trace elements in it, so if I have a regular water change schedule then it would appear I am doing the same thing. That being said plenty of experienced reefers have crashes who aren't doing Triton or ATI, explained and unexplained. Not sure one experienced reefers failure would drive me away from trying something new. The upside I do see of Triton or ATI is the testing they provide, certainly a step forward with information as to what is in our tanks over whatever method I have access to now. Just my 2 cents.
By the way, at least in the picture that stand looks pretty nice.
soulpatch
New member
Potentially but likely not the exact same elements that your corals are using if you want to really dive into the triton method.
Stating a single name as an example does not mean only one has had issues. Searching on here as well as numerous other sites will show that the triton method is very easy to have failure with. They rely HEAVILY on the refugium and should you have one strain of algae go then you start a domino effect in the tank.
I agree the testing is great but you can do that without getting into their element system... You can find out if you have metals in your system or if your salt is not providing enough iodine or potassium and such and suppliment as needed.
The choice is yours but there is too much chatter at the moment of issues surrounding the triton method.
I've been using the triton method for a few months. I was warned about chasing parameters.
A few things...
1. If you are already dosing 2part -- you probably should be doing as much chemical testing as you would be doing if you did the triton method. Many crashes are simply because you are driving the car blindfolded. In some ways, the triton method forces you to do what you probably should be doing anyway.
2. Many folks use a refugium without using a triton dosing scheme. Either you rely on a refugium --- or you are wasting your time creating one.
3. The triton method never said you can't do a water change. You certainly can and will at some point. I'm not convinced you have to do their water tests, to execute the methodology.
4. IMO -- the goal is to heavily reduce water changes. Most people believe that 20% water changes are sufficient. If you didn't like the flavor of coke and you took out 20% and replaced it with water -- it would still taste like coke. That is my problem with water changes. We rely on them --- only to find ourselves driving blindfolded believing we have corrected a problem that was only 20% resolved with a water change.
When people ask for help here --- the first question is always what are your water parameters. In many cases, those parameters look normal. Perhaps we don't always measure what is needed -- that is where the triton and ATI chemical testing can help. I suspect some of the faithful 20% water changers out there -- at some point will consider running one of those tests.
A few things...
1. If you are already dosing 2part -- you probably should be doing as much chemical testing as you would be doing if you did the triton method. Many crashes are simply because you are driving the car blindfolded. In some ways, the triton method forces you to do what you probably should be doing anyway.
2. Many folks use a refugium without using a triton dosing scheme. Either you rely on a refugium --- or you are wasting your time creating one.
3. The triton method never said you can't do a water change. You certainly can and will at some point. I'm not convinced you have to do their water tests, to execute the methodology.
4. IMO -- the goal is to heavily reduce water changes. Most people believe that 20% water changes are sufficient. If you didn't like the flavor of coke and you took out 20% and replaced it with water -- it would still taste like coke. That is my problem with water changes. We rely on them --- only to find ourselves driving blindfolded believing we have corrected a problem that was only 20% resolved with a water change.
When people ask for help here --- the first question is always what are your water parameters. In many cases, those parameters look normal. Perhaps we don't always measure what is needed -- that is where the triton and ATI chemical testing can help. I suspect some of the faithful 20% water changers out there -- at some point will consider running one of those tests.
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