SC Aquariums Owners Thread

[RogueGrown]

Tunze nano is good. A actually prefer it to the 3152. I have both and the optical sensor on the 3152 malfunctions frequently and I come home to alarms going off.

Im really confused here, the 3152 is the nano isnt it? From what marine depot says it does not come with a sensor just the float switch am I correct? The 3155 comes with the duel float and sensor.

I like the idea of the small and compact auto aqua but I have been reading reviews where if theres a blip in the night with power it has to be out of the water to initialize and until then sits there and beeps. I guess thats not a bad thing but being in my room I could see that being slightly annoying.

 

[KJoFan]

Im really confused here, the 3152 is the nano isnt it? From what marine depot says it does not come with a sensor just the float switch am I correct? The 3155 comes with the duel float and sensor.

I like the idea of the small and compact auto aqua but I have been reading reviews where if theres a blip in the night with power it has to be out of the water to initialize and until then sits there and beeps. I guess thats not a bad thing but being in my room I could see that being slightly annoying.

Correct, the 3152 has one manual float switch only. No optical eye. At least, as of a couple years ago when I purchased mine.

 

[RogueGrown]

Correct, the 3152 has one manual float switch only. No optical eye. At least, as of a couple years ago when I purchased mine.

Have you ever had any issues with the float? I in a pickle as to what ATO to go with.

I don't mind spending 150 on something that will help stability in my tank and take a bit of daily maintenance off my plate.

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[pfan151]

Sorry, meant the 3155 is giving me problems.


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[pfan151]

The tunze nano is really good though. If I'm remembering right it will only stay on for 5 mins max. So there's really not a chance for it to cause any catastrophic problems even if it does malfunction. I also only use a 5 gal bucket for my ato tank so if everything failed it still wouldn't cause much of a problem even if the whole bucket got drained at once.


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[RogueGrown]

The tunze nano is really good though. If I'm remembering right it will only stay on for 5 mins max. So there's really not a chance for it to cause any catastrophic problems even if it does malfunction. I also only use a 5 gal bucket for my ato tank so if everything failed it still wouldn't cause much of a problem even if the whole bucket got drained at once.


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How much would you say it pumps in 5 minutes? I also didn't see anything about a check valve on it. I'm sure it's there though.

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[pfan151]

How much would you say it pumps in 5 minutes? I also didn't see anything about a check valve on it. I'm sure it's there though.

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Not sure. Mine never comes on for more than 10-15 seconds.


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[KJoFan]

Have you ever had any issues with the float? I in a pickle as to what ATO to go with.

I don't mind spending 150 on something that will help stability in my tank and take a bit of daily maintenance off my plate.

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From time to time it will overfill slightly, or not fill when it's supposed to. Of course, mine is running two years as of February and I've never taken it out and cleaned the float so....probably user error there.

I'm using it on a Biocube 29 with not a whole lot of margin for error and never had any major mishaps.

I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it. Not to mention the customer service that comes with Tunze products. Worth it.

 

[edolan]

If you have a Tap Plastics around you they are great if want to diy your own overflow cover. They have a scrap bin where I have often seen black acrylic. Usually 12x12 and sell for $1 or $2. They sell cutters for a couple dollars.

 

[cincyjim]

I just received my SCA 150 yesterday and I am truly impressed with the tank, stand, and canopy! This is one sweet tank!!!

I do have a question though... for the overflow pipes, do you glue those to the bulk head? I ask because the overflow box has slits in the bottom of it which will allow for water to continuously go into the overflow box. As such, wouldn't the pipe/bulk head allow the water to seep into the sump and cause a potential flood should the main pump fail (power outage/mechanical)? Did you use the strainer that came with the bulk head or did you get a strainer that would fit on top of the overflow pipe or not use one at all? I ask because I'm 5'5" and I don't see myself being able to reach down that far to get it and clean it.

Much appreciated!
Jim

 

[homer1475]

The slits are in the plastic, not the glass the plastic is covering up. Once your water level falls below the weir teeth it also falls below the glass lip.

I did not glue any pipes to my bulkheads. My thinking was someday I'll have to clean in there and being able to pull the pipes is essential. What I do is use a long stick to stir up the bottom of the overflow, then pull the pipes flushing all into my sump and filter socks. I'm short too and can only reach about 1/3 of the way down into my overflow.

I did put a strainer on my full siphon line as I did not want anything to go down that pipe and possibly get stuck causing a flood, but I have to pull that pipe periodically and clean the strainer off.

I also thew away all the plumbing that came with my PNP system and used my own better bulkheads and pipes.

 

[cincyjim]

Thanks for the response Homer1475. I guess I'm over thinking this then. I was worried that since the slits are at the bottom of the overflow box itself then the water would continuously flow into the box which then seep between the bulk head and overflow pipe.

I did think about having to clean the piping at some point down the road but my plan was to use a long handle pipe cleaning brush (if one exists) so I wouldn't have to remove the pipes.

 

[homer1475]

Thanks for the response Homer1475. I guess I'm over thinking this then. I was worried that since the slits are at the bottom of the overflow box itself then the water would continuously flow into the box which then seep between the bulk head and overflow pipe.

The slits are only in the plastic not the glass. The reason being is there is a small gap between the plastic and the glass(the glass is the actual overflow, the plastic only hides the glass). The water flowing over the weir teeth, and down between the gap, and out the bottom slits keeps that space clear of debris. The glass overflow is a solid piece siliconed to the tank, water does not seep into the overflow. The only way water makes it into the overflow is over the teeth.

Friction fitting the overflow pipes is much easier then gluing them in place. if it makes you feel better get threaded bulkheads and thread your overflow pipes to them. Trust me, at some point you'll want to be able to pull those pipes, and glueing them in place makes it impossible.

 

[cincyjim]

Honestly I had no idea there was glass behind the plastic overflow box. Thanks so much for telling me that. So I won't glue the pipes to the bulk head now as it wouldn't make any sense to do so. Much appreciate the guidance!!!

 

[homer1475]

No problem, glad I could help.

 

[RogueGrown]

I also thew away all the plumbing that came with my PNP system and used my own better bulkheads and pipes.

What bulkheads would you recommend? I was planning on replacing all the plumbing besides the return also. But would like something good more safe trust worthy than the offered equipment.

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[soulpatch]

you can get schedule 40 bulkheads from BRS or get lifegard ones from amazon

 

[RogueGrown]

What would be the difference between those and the ones Steve provides? When I was buying the tank he told me they switched to all sch 40 plumbing.

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[d0ughb0y]

The slits are only in the plastic not the glass. The reason being is there is a small gap between the plastic and the glass(the glass is the actual overflow, the plastic only hides the glass). The water flowing over the weir teeth, and down between the gap, and out the bottom slits keeps that space clear of debris. The glass overflow is a solid piece siliconed to the tank, water does not seep into the overflow. The only way water makes it into the overflow is over the teeth.

Friction fitting the overflow pipes is much easier then gluing them in place. if it makes you feel better get threaded bulkheads and thread your overflow pipes to them. Trust me, at some point you'll want to be able to pull those pipes, and glueing them in place makes it impossible.

Are you sure about the flow direction of the overflow? I am setting up a tank right now with the slits on the lower part of the overflow, and I can see debris get sucked into the lower slits and also the very bottom. The is a small gap at the bottom of the overflow and the glass bottom.

I got a used tank and there are tons of crap stuck between the overflow side glass and the side overflow box acrylic cover that is impossible to remove. There is silicon applied in zigzag pattern to hold the sides of the acrylic to the glass. The front part of the acrylic is not attached to the glass so I was able to clean all the crap in there.

I think that is the reason the newer cadlights did away with the slits and bottom gap as it only becomes a detritus trap. The way particles get sucked in the bottom is cool though. I always wonder how detritus will ever go over the top of the overflow and this looked like a neat solution, but with disadvantages though.

I have been wondering exactly how particles get sucked in the lower slits and overflow bottom, and I think it is due to venturi effect like in skimmer intake. Since the water flow at the top is faster, it lowers the pressure and suck up water from the bottom opening, just like how skimmer pump sucks in water causing it to suck in air due to venturi effect. But I think sooner or later, the slits and the bottom opening gets clogged with debris so it will not function as intended anymore. Again, my guess as to the reason why cadlights got rid of the bottom slit and bottom opening. I think the top is siliconed so there really is no gap between the black acrylic and the inner overflow glass on the new cadlights.

 

[soulpatch]

What would be the difference between those and the ones Steve provides? When I was buying the tank he told me they switched to all sch 40 plumbing.

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Just overall quality. Schedule 40 is the sizing of the plumbing but not quality of it...