SC Aquariums Owners Thread

I've received two tanks from SCA, one today actually, and at both times the driver waited while I inspected it. Both times the pallets were damaged but the tanks were fine. I agree however if the trucker doesn't allow inspection, I wouldn't accept it either
 
Look what came in today...Rimless 150 Gal! 15mm glass

<a href="http://s1253.photobucket.com/user/Carlosjayme1/media/20161213_134140_zpsbe0jvuyl.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1253.photobucket.com/albums/hh583/Carlosjayme1/20161213_134140_zpsbe0jvuyl.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20161213_134140_zpsbe0jvuyl.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1253.photobucket.com/user/Carlosjayme1/media/20161213_134156_zps6newfmsk.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1253.photobucket.com/albums/hh583/Carlosjayme1/20161213_134156_zps6newfmsk.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20161213_134156_zps6newfmsk.jpg"/></a>
 
Wow!!! That is nice, I have the regular 150... if I upgrade it'll go to full custom from SCA since Steve is so great


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Wow!!! That is nice, I have the regular 150... if I upgrade it'll go to full custom from SCA since Steve is so great


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I got the regular 150 also, but didn't like the water level being too low due to euro bracing. I ended up selling it.
This rimless tank is not a "custom" tank, Steve is stocking them as a 150 "Version 2 " tank. As you can see it comes pre-drilled to fit a 20" Synergy reef overflow (I hated the center tower from the other tank) and two returns.

The water level on this tank is 1.5" from the top so it looks sharp with the rimless look.
 
I got the regular 150 also, but didn't like the water level being too low due to euro bracing. I ended up selling it.
This rimless tank is not a "custom" tank, Steve is stocking them as a 150 "Version 2 " tank. As you can see it comes pre-drilled to fit a 20" Synergy reef overflow (I hated the center tower from the other tank) and two returns.

The water level on this tank is 1.5" from the top so it looks sharp with the rimless look.

Wow, that is sharp, but I wonder what the "long-term" viability of an aquarium that large is without additional bracing (Euro or otherwise), although 15mm is no joke and should be more than adequate. 15mm is the same thickness of the Innovative Marine SR series 120g aquariums that were also rimless without bracing, but it looks like they are going to stop making them going forward - wonder why (issues with construction or sales?).

How long has this version been out? I love that it can come predrilled - I would have possibly gone that route with my 50g cube!

Also, how much does that sucker weigh? It is good to have friends! :spin1:
 
I got the regular 150 also, but didn't like the water level being too low due to euro bracing. I ended up selling it.
This rimless tank is not a "custom" tank, Steve is stocking them as a 150 "Version 2 " tank. As you can see it comes pre-drilled to fit a 20" Synergy reef overflow (I hated the center tower from the other tank) and two returns.

The water level on this tank is 1.5" from the top so it looks sharp with the rimless look.

I'm getting back into the hobby and picked up a new PNP from the SCA warehouse. I live close enough that I was able to deal with Steve in person. He actually stocks a lot of tanks that are not on the website.
 
I received the 65g setup with stand and sump on Monday, pretty satisfied with it all, although I haven't put water in it yet. Had to modify the sump a bit, I don't use a refugium and the baffle was only set at 6.75" so I removed the "upstream" baffle and siliconed it to the second one 2" higher, so that will work better with my skimmer and add a couple gallons of water volume to the system. The stand is decent but one pair of hinges is about 1/8" lower than the other side so the doors will never be perfectly aligned, but close. The tank itself seems great and the service thus far has been very good.
 
Wow, that is sharp, but I wonder what the "long-term" viability of an aquarium that large is without additional bracing (Euro or otherwise), although 15mm is no joke and should be more than adequate. 15mm is the same thickness of the Innovative Marine SR series 120g aquariums that were also rimless without bracing, but it looks like they are going to stop making them going forward - wonder why (issues with construction or sales?).

How long has this version been out? I love that it can come predrilled - I would have possibly gone that route with my 50g cube!

Also, how much does that sucker weigh? It is good to have friends! :spin1:

I think Steve has just started carrying the new rimless. As far as glass thickness, it has the same as the Red Sea Reefer 525Xl's, the 425's actually have 12mm, and are also very popular. I really don't think 15mm would be of any issues.

For those asking $, I would ask Steve, you would be amazed how much it makes sense to go rimless instead;)
The tank with pallet weigh 350lbs.
 
Newbie.

Newbie.

I've kept African Cichlids and community fish (not together) for over 20 years, with a few breaks while I was overseas.
I've been asked countless times why I haven't set up a salt tank. To be honest it was a lack of knowledge.

Back in October, I took the plunge and set up a 16 gal tank with a canister filter. (The hook has been set) I've got a 6-line wrasse, yellow watchman, and a clown fish. I also have a few snails and crabs. The canister is working well, but not the best choice. Have to pull it apart every week and clean it.

So I made the decision to go with a larger tank. First I looked at the all in ones. They didn't offer enough space for a skimmer, two reactors, and a lift pump. So the decision shifted to the 50 gal PNP (minus the stand). I'll build the stand to my liking and it'll stand up to all the spills and drips to come.

The tank will arrive later this week or early next week. I'm no rush. I want to do this right from the beginning and not come home to find a wet ceiling and empty tank.

I started reading the thread from the beginning. I've got a long ways to go yet.

Just thought I'd introduce myself before I just jump in with questions, which I already have a few.
Here is a link to my YouTube page with my 210 mixed African Cichlid tank.
watch



Ted
 
Here is my first question.
I noticed from pictures some folks have their union before the shut-off valve on the line going into the sump. Shouldn't the union be after the shut-off valve??

Ted
 
no right answer to that as it depends on what you are trying to do. Best option though would be to use a union valve like the cepex and such that BRS sells as you have union before and after shutoff.
 
souldpatch,

Fair enough. I thought it was odd having the union before the shutoff. You could turn off the flow to the sump, but if you disconnect the union, you'll still have flow.

Ted
 
souldpatch,

Fair enough. I thought it was odd having the union before the shutoff. You could turn off the flow to the sump, but if you disconnect the union, you'll still have flow.

Ted

If you are disconnecting the drain lines then you aren't running the return pump which means you are only going to have so much water trickle in from the overflow. Talking basically nothing and a rag woudl clean it up. Now if you were replumbing your overflow you woudl pull the pipes before you disconnect the sump so you get the run off and drain it then.

There really isn't a "right" way for this one and again I would simply use a cepex valve. Cover both bases at same time...
 
Soulpatch,
Thank you for your comments.
I'm still waiting for the tank to arrive in San Antonio. Should be later this week or early next week.
I've been putting together a laundry list of things to build or buy.
I would like ask a few more questions of the group.

1. Is there a reason folks get white PVC piping and fittings instead of black or grey? I'm leaning towards hard-plumbing.

2. Is anyone running an Apex system on their tanks? I'm looking mostly for temp controls (kick on a fan/turn off heater or lights) and sump water level (set min and max levels to shut off pumps and sound a warning). The other bells and whistles are nice and will be used as the tank population grows.

3. I'm building my own stand using the "King of DIY" plans. However, I was looking at removable front and side panel(s) to facilitate removal of the sump and other equip.

Thank you

Ted
 
You should spend some time reading the build threads. Link to mine is in my sig.

To answer here quickly though:

1 - White PVC is cheap and available up the street which is why many use it. I have blue PVC that I used with glossy white connections. Also used clear primer and glue to ensure it looked good. You can do whatever you want. If you go full hard like many of us do be sure to incorporate a small amount of spa flex somewhere especially fromt he return to kill vibrations and noise.

2 - A ton of us run Apex systems. I have mine doing everything from lighting schedules, feed modes, cleaning, variable powerheads, auto water changes, and more.

3 - I did similar for my old 125 gallon planted tank. I was always under it to get to the filtration and CO2 setup. Really though thinking back I would have just done removeable sides and left the front skinned for doors. Maybe with a quick release of some sort for the front but I was in and out of it so much that removing the front panel every time was a headache. I prefer doors at this point.
 
Soulpatch,

The stand framework design is set in stone. The dimensions and covering is still in the works.

Would a few inches of rubber hose right at the pump be enough to reduce the vibrations?

I've seen folks use rubber dampers on the pumps as well. Seems like two good ideas to plan into the build project.

Thank you

Ted
 
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