SC Aquariums Owners Thread

I have 2 MP40ew's on my SCA90 , both on the back and 2/3 of the height of the tank. I can only really crank them a little past half way before its a bit too much. I probably have less rock work than most people though.

On a 50 you could likely get away with 2 MP10's but theyll be cranked up I bet.

To help solve the flow across the middle I have my sump return inputs aimed towards the opposite lower corner using flow enhancers. The 2 returns "cross swords" at the middle / forward-middle of the tank.

The flow enhancers are like these http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/cpr-threaded-eductor.html
 
If I put the mp10 on the left or right side of the overflow and used a koralia and angled it towards the center will that work? I have a koralia 425 thats why I'm using that as an example.

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Odds are, that should be just fine. In all fairness, the MP10 provides a lot of flow in the tank and I only have it turned up about 3/4 of the way. Anymore and it stirs up too much sand.
 
I'll check but those should be the outer dimensions

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Yes, I am interested in the outer dimensions as the tank will sit down into the top of the stand a bit. I take the 60x24x24 to be the nominal dimensions and the actual outside dimensions are probably a little different.

I appreciate it Soulpatch!
 
Odds are, that should be just fine. In all fairness, the MP10 provides a lot of flow in the tank and I only have it turned up about 3/4 of the way. Anymore and it stirs up too much sand.
More questions about the mp10....

If I was to get one now and use it in the 20 long and turn it way down would I benefit much from this much or just wait to put it on the 50. Also do I have to have the reeflink for this system?

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I have 2 MP40ew's on my SCA90 , both on the back and 2/3 of the height of the tank. I can only really crank them a little past half way before its a bit too much. I probably have less rock work than most people though.

On a 50 you could likely get away with 2 MP10's but theyll be cranked up I bet.

To help solve the flow across the middle I have my sump return inputs aimed towards the opposite lower corner using flow enhancers. The 2 returns "cross swords" at the middle / forward-middle of the tank.

The flow enhancers are like these http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/cpr-threaded-eductor.html

yes. fwiw, it does not matter what pump you use, you will need a pair to reduce dead spots. even that will not completely eliminate dead spots, but can be further minimized by using the flow from the return pump (or additional pumps). even using gyre or similar pump, you will need a pair.
 
yes. fwiw, it does not matter what pump you use, you will need a pair to reduce dead spots. even that will not completely eliminate dead spots, but can be further minimized by using the flow from the return pump (or additional pumps). even using gyre or similar pump, you will need a pair.

agreed and as I said before your personal setup drives a lot.

In my instance I have a rock wall and as such currenly have 2 PP8, 2 WAVs, and a SP6 driving my return. I could still use 2 more PP4 or PP8 in the tank to ensure I dont have any dead spots.
 
Yes, I am interested in the outer dimensions as the tank will sit down into the top of the stand a bit. I take the 60x24x24 to be the nominal dimensions and the actual outside dimensions are probably a little different.

I appreciate it Soulpatch!

I will grab it around 6 tonight. I didn't forget but had a massive migraine hit last night...
 
Hey everyone just purchased a 50 gal pnp with wood stand from Steve! The tank will be custom drilled for the 16" reef shadow overflow. I will be using a skimz123 skimmer a long with a skimz up14 sumpro. My only question that I was confused about was Steve said there will be one return hole drilled on the side of the overflow box and that the sch 40 bulkhead for the return hole is included.

Does he mean the tank has a hole drilled for the return? How would the overflow have a hole drilled when I bought the reef shadow separately from BRS?

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Pretty sure he means the tank will have a hole drilled for the return line, and not in the overflow itself.

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Sorry to burst into this thread i am looking into the SCA 45 24x20x20 and im very curious to the location of the drain and return, which one is on the left and right???
 
Here it is dry but delivered. Bad news is wife wants it set up and 75 out before next weekends triple Bachelorette party (1 is my daughter's) .... Yes I will be out. So.... I will have to use the out of the box setup with no ball valve....besides I like the green flex hose, but not a fan of just hose going into the sump as a drain. Also, it's triple drilled and not sure about the intent of the third hole since they sent a capped pvc for it.... Emergency overflow maybe? If so, I assume it just needs to be a pvc higher than the normal overflow?
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Perk,
1 is the main drain, another is the emergency drain, the the remaining is the return. I've only read of a few people using just the green hose. Most hard plumb with PVC. Have you looked up Herbie drain? I believe that's what the tank was drilled for.
If it were me I'd use a gate valve over a ball valve. The gate valve gives better control of the flow.
Just my .02
Ted
 
Anyone know which of the DC pumps out there (besides Jebao) have the right size output to hook up to the 1" plumbing without additional pieces being needed?

Ideally I'd like to use a short run of the green tubing (1" ID?) from the pump to the start of my hard plumbing for the return line.

I looked at the RO VarioS pumps, but the ones within a proper range seem to jump from a 3/4" barb to a 1.25" barb, no 1"....

The VarioS 4 has a 1" slip fitting so I guess I could either hard plumb all the way, or use a slip fitting to convert to the proper size barb. I just hate to waste any space with lots of extra fittings.
 
I am in the process of setting up a SC 100G (48x24x20) on a DIY stand. The 3/4" plywood top on the stand has some pits in the wood grain throughout the top. The top is level. I plan on putting a 1/2" piece of pink foam insulation between the stand and the tank.

Do I need to worry about these pits? I could go buy a sanded piece of plywood and replace the top if needed but would rather not if not necessary.

Also I cannot get my arm in the overflow with the euro bracing. Is this common with the SC euro braced tanks?
 
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