SC Aquariums Owners Thread

I am in the process of setting up a SC 100G (48x24x20) on a DIY stand. The 3/4" plywood top on the stand has some pits in the wood grain throughout the top. The top is level. I plan on putting a 1/2" piece of pink foam insulation between the stand and the tank.

This is exactly why you use some foam insulation or a yoga mat on a rimless tank. As long as you are using something between the plywood and tank, you'll be fine.
 
Hey guys with the 50 cube. Do you guys have any lights you absolutely love? I have the Nano box duo and I not enjoying the colors I'm getting and am thinking of switching
 
I am in the process of setting up a SC 100G (48x24x20) on a DIY stand. The 3/4" plywood top on the stand has some pits in the wood grain throughout the top. The top is level. I plan on putting a 1/2" piece of pink foam insulation between the stand and the tank.

Do I need to worry about these pits? I could go buy a sanded piece of plywood and replace the top if needed but would rather not if not necessary.

Also I cannot get my arm in the overflow with the euro bracing. Is this common with the SC euro braced tanks?

I used a 1/4" yoga mat and I'm very satisfied with it. This may work for you depending on how deep the pits are.
 
This is exactly why you use some foam insulation or a yoga mat on a rimless tank. As long as you are using something between the plywood and tank, you'll be fine.

I used a 1/4" yoga mat and I'm very satisfied with it. This may work for you depending on how deep the pits are.

Thanks. I never had a rimless tank before so I wanted to be sure.

I went ahead and installed the 1/2" foam under the tank.
 
Ideally I'd like to use a short run of the green tubing (1" ID?) from the pump to the start of my hard plumbing for the return line.
The VarioS 4 has a 1" slip fitting so I guess I could either hard plumb all the way, or use a slip fitting to convert to the proper size barb. I just hate to waste any space with lots of extra fittings.

You should really stop using barbs and tubing. The headloss you are getting doing so is substantial. Depending on the barb you are basically taking 1" pipe down to 3/4 or even 1/2"...

I woudl throw out all of the vinyl tubing. Get yourself some masterflex if you want flexible. It glues into PVC fittings same as PVC pipe so you get the benefits of flexibility without the headloss...
 
I used a 1/4" yoga mat and I'm very satisfied with it. This may work for you depending on how deep the pits are.

do you have a link to the yoga mat you used?

I was considering this floor mats from harbor freight, $8.99 for 4 pack, but they are 1/2 in. thick.

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-anti-fatigue-foam-mat-set-94635.html

is there a problem if water drips down the side of the DT and then seeps in between the DT and the mat?

I've seen a cadlights 50 on display at lfs, and the black mat they use on DT looks really thin, thinner than 1/4". For the sump, they use a door mat cut to size of the sump. The door mat is ribbed, so if water seeps under the sump, it will eventually dry out. the mat looks like this

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays-3-x-4-Apache-Rib-Pepper-Door-Mat/42030281
 
I used 1/4 neoprene which is basically what yoga mats are. They are closed cell foam and as such do not such in water or such.
 
its not about soaking in water, but the capillary action that causes water to seep in between the tank and mat, and mat and stand. and if the mat does not soak, the water will stay in there indefinitely perhaps if it soaks in water would be better, then it will have a chance to eventually dry out.

I have a mat under my sump on my current setup, and I know water that seeps under stays there indefinitely until I take out my sump and dry everything. That's why I thought the ribbed floor mat was a good idea, because it has spaces between ribs for air to pass.

I suppose it is not going to be any worse than not having a mat between the tank and stand.
 
ribbed defeats the purpose as you would have compression points.

My neoprene has not had any issues. I have had leaks in my stand and when I swapped sumps you could visibly see the mat under the sump had never been touched. Remember if the water CAN seep in then there is not an airtight break and as such it can dry. My sump compressed the neoprene enough to form a seal. I imaging the tank does the same though I have never had a leak with the tank to check that...and hoping I dont...
 
do you have a link to the yoga mat you used?



I've seen a cadlights 50 on display at lfs, and the black mat they use on DT looks really thin, thinner than 1/4". For the sump, they use a door mat cut to size of the sump. The door mat is ribbed, so if water seeps under the sump, it will eventually dry out. the mat looks like this

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays-3-x-4-Apache-Rib-Pepper-Door-Mat/42030281

The yoga mat will compress pretty flat once the tank, water, sand, and rock is on it. You can hardly see the one under my tank. I can say for the one I got, no water is getting between it or under it, the tank or stand.
 
You should really stop using barbs and tubing. The headloss you are getting doing so is substantial. Depending on the barb you are basically taking 1" pipe down to 3/4 or even 1/2"...

I woudl throw out all of the vinyl tubing. Get yourself some masterflex if you want flexible. It glues into PVC fittings same as PVC pipe so you get the benefits of flexibility without the headloss...

I really was only going to use it for a short run to the pump to reduce vibration. But, if I can get a good pump that's quiet i'll hard plumb the whole way.

Also, I'm not super concerned with the amount of flow my return pump provides. I'm not relying on that to provide flow in my tank, that's what powerheads are for. Getting 500-600 gph after headloss is sufficient for a 66g IMO.
 
masterflex and spaflex both glue directly into fittings and deaden vibrations without the use of barbs or other odd fittings.

Even the best of pumps will still have some vibration and I always recommend at least a small stretch of the above to take care of that.
 
I've used some spaflex in the past and find it really difficult to use. It's not the most flexible of materials from what I've found. But, maybe for just a short run it'd be doable.

But, like I said, I've used all hard plumbing in the past and it's been fine. I don't think you can achieve a completely silent tank, nor do I really endeavor to achieve that.

Either way I need a different pump if I'm not going to use any barbs. :)
 
Hey everyone just purchased a 50 gal pnp with wood stand from Steve! The tank will be custom drilled for the 16" reef shadow overflow. I will be using a skimz123 skimmer a long with a skimz up14 sumpro. My only question that I was confused about was Steve said there will be one return hole drilled on the side of the overflow box and that the sch 40 bulkhead for the return hole is included.

Does he mean the tank has a hole drilled for the return? How would the overflow have a hole drilled when I bought the reef shadow separately from BRS?

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The hole for the return is separate from shadow overflow. If you have enough room, I would be tempted to ask for 2 return holes and bulkheads.

Im really liking the shadow overflow, makes the tank feel so much more open.
 
The hole for the return is separate from shadow overflow. If you have enough room, I would be tempted to ask for 2 return holes and bulkheads.

Im really liking the shadow overflow, makes the tank feel so much more open.
That's great to hear. My tank is shipped already didn't even think about asking for a 2nd return hole. I Just got my 16" shadow overflow from ups today now just waiting on the tank!

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More questions about the mp10....

If I was to get one now and use it in the 20 long and turn it way down would I benefit much from this much or just wait to put it on the 50. Also do I have to have the reeflink for this system?

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Yes, it would be just fine on a 20. The pump has a lot of adjustability. I'd say get it and use it, get familiar with it. By the time you move over to your 50, you'll have a better understanding of the pump and how you want to use it.
 
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