SC Aquariums Owners Thread

I've been running the water level in the skimmer chamber of my sump around 7.5. I think I may be running it too deep for my SC-301 skimmer. Any suggestions??
Thank you
Ted
 
Water level?

Water level?

I just filled my new 100 last night from SC Aquariums and the water level seems a bit low to me. It is 2" below the rim of the tank. The tank is eurobraced. I am feeding the tank with a reeflo barracuda/hammerhead hybrid with about 14 ft of head.

Is the 2" gab at the top normal?

Thanks!
 
So long as your water level is not so high that your weir teeth are submerged you are fine. The higher up the weir teeth you go the less you will pull from the surface as you also pull in water up to 1/4 inch deep or so but you are still surface skimming. I feed oily foods and have never had an issue. Couple the fact that most are putting close to 5-10x an hour through their tank and you good. You should have some surface agitation as well from your returns or powerheads. Not enough persay to break the surface causing bubbles but enough to help keep things in the water column for easier removal.



No. Raising the water level in the tank results in it being higher on the teeth. Before raising the water level when you killed power you would drain your overflow box and a slight trickle from the tank. After raising the water level you do that still PLUS all the water you have added to raise the water level. Raising the main drain will negate a small portion of that but not enough to negate it completly. My system is able to handle a power loss AND pulling a pipe in the overflow so the entire overflow drains into the sump. You want the capacity for when you need to clean or fish something out of the overflow. If you are right on the cusp of sump overflow then you need to rejigger your setup or live with the lower water level.


If I raise the main drain will that raise the water level in the display? I understand I will also have to adjust the emergency drain accordingly. I don't believe I would be able to do this and still use the T return setup that comes with the kit.

I have a ball valve on the main drain line and that doesn't seem to adjust the water level either.

How do I get the water level higher on the teeth thus creating a higher display water level?

Thanks!
 
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I got the regular 150 also, but didn't like the water level being too low due to euro bracing. I ended up selling it.
This rimless tank is not a "custom" tank, Steve is stocking them as a 150 "Version 2 " tank. As you can see it comes pre-drilled to fit a 20" Synergy reef overflow (I hated the center tower from the other tank) and two returns.

The water level on this tank is 1.5" from the top so it looks sharp with the rimless look.

I just filled my new 100 last night from SC Aquariums and the water level seems a bit low to me. It is 2" below the rim of the tank. The tank is eurobraced. I am feeding the tank with a reeflo barracuda/hammerhead hybrid with about 14 ft of head.

Is the 2" gab at the top normal?

Thanks!

I thought all SCA tanks were rimless (like all Elos tanks are rimless) until someone pointed out there is plenty of room in DT to take ATO water in case the return gets clogged due to the euro brace :0

only then I realized why all the pictures in SCA shows euro braced tanks with a hood.

I guess you can positively think of it that way.

euro braced tanks don't do it for some people.
 
If I raise the main drain will that raise the water level in the display? I understand I will also have to adjust the emergency drain accordingly. I don't believe I would be able to do this and still use the T return setup that comes with the kit.

I have a ball valve on the main drain line and that doesn't seem to adjust the water level either.

How do I get the water level higher on the teeth thus creating a higher display water level?

Thanks!

You don't need to raise the main drain. Mine is all of perhaps 3 inches from bottom of overflow. You need to raise you emergency and you can get behind the return T by utilizing 2 45 fititings.

If you have your system balanced then you can add water to your DT to raise the level. Your return should match your drain. Just be aware that once you add water that should you have a power outage you need to be able to handle it in the sump. SO test and ensure added volume does not cause issues.
 
Anyone else have trouble with microbubbles from the SCA-302 skimmer? I just started mine up this weekend on a new tank so there will be a break in period I realize but the microbubbles coming out of the bottom of the adjustment tube are insane. I've never had a skimmer produce this many.

So, is this normal and I wait it out or could something be wrong?
 
You don't need to raise the main drain. Mine is all of perhaps 3 inches from bottom of overflow. You need to raise you emergency and you can get behind the return T by utilizing 2 45 fititings.

If you have your system balanced then you can add water to your DT to raise the level. Your return should match your drain. Just be aware that once you add water that should you have a power outage you need to be able to handle it in the sump. SO test and ensure added volume does not cause issues.

Perfect info thank you. I researched the herbie drain system and I understand it better now. I will have to use the 45's to get around the return tee and set the emergency drain to the desired water height.

I have a stock tank in my basement for my sump so I will just be conservative and leave space for the overflow box to drain out.

Thanks again!
 
Its not just the return box but also the level your tank back drains for the return lines. By lifting the water line you increase the amount that backflows. Just do a power outage test with you standing there to plug back in your return pump as needed to avoid overflow and make any needed adjustments.

I have a small hole drilled into the bottom of my locline so when water level drops it breaks the siphon and limits backflow.
 
Its not just the return box but also the level your tank back drains for the return lines. By lifting the water line you increase the amount that backflows. Just do a power outage test with you standing there to plug back in your return pump as needed to avoid overflow and make any needed adjustments.

I have a small hole drilled into the bottom of my locline so when water level drops it breaks the siphon and limits backflow.


Awesome thanks once again. I have plenty of sump space (like 40 gallons of wiggle room) so I will tune it in.

Appreciate it!
 
Does anyone that has a 50 PNP have a good estimate of how much room is in the sump when the tank is running and when it's off? I ask cause I'm trying to determine if I add a shallow reef/frag tank to the system will the stock sump support it, or should I go with an AIO system?

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Does anyone that has a 50 PNP have a good estimate of how much room is in the sump when the tank is running and when it's off? I ask cause I'm trying to determine if I add a shallow reef/frag tank to the system will the stock sump support it, or should I go with an AIO system?

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While running, the sump is right around half full. When shutting off the return pump, it's maybe 2/3 full. The sump could certainly handle a little more water running through it.
If the water level is raised any, it will exceed the height of the baffles and allow microbubbles to pass through.
 
If my custom tank from you guys is 60 long x 30 deep what is the outside to dimension for my stand need to be?


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While running, the sump is right around half full. When shutting off the return pump, it's maybe 2/3 full. The sump could certainly handle a little more water running through it.
If the water level is raised any, it will exceed the height of the baffles and allow microbubbles to pass through.

But while running the water should level itself out so there wouldn't be any bubbles passing by right???

Also, I currently just have the return pump that came with the system. Will this be good enough to run for awhile or should I look into a different pump? I heard mixed reviews on it so I'm not sure what route to take. I plan on making my plumbing so I can run at least one reactor off of it with the idea of a small frag tank later.

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I ran the stock pump for about 6 months before I replaced it. Works fine, it's just large, loud, and cumbersome. I still use it to this day on my mixing station.

I'm not sure it would be powerful enough to run a manifold off of.

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Thanks for checking out my build thread ! I did drill out the hole myself. It's a 2" hole saw with a plastic desk grommet used for running wires on desks. I will be using it to run power cords over to my electrical sliding shelf.

As far you fan you want to mount, I don't have much experience but maybe some how you can incorporate it into the plumbing cutout of the stand?


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I found on amazon you can get these fan grilles. I think I'll use one on my stand so it does not look ugly with just a fan with no cover.

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https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-...=1497543486&sr=8-1&keywords=cabinet+fan+grill

They are designed for AV cabinets. you can get complete fan with temp controlled speed controller and display. just search AC Infinity fan on amazon.
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I actually have the AC inifinity fans in my stand. I LOVE them. DEAD silent and have outlasted 2 computer fans I had on the other side already.
 
I have a pair of Ice Cap 4" fans inside the left side of the canopy that blows across the length of the tank and exits out the right side. I did it this way as I have two Reef Brite LED strips that produce a fair amount of heat. I also have one in my cabinet just for good measure. I also used the fan cover that you showed a picture of. Works well for me. I'm sure though that the Infinity fans are much better.
 
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