SC Aquariums Owners Thread
- Thread starter OceanWolf
- Start date
Just seeing this and most likely too late but no you don't need to glue the mat. I guess you could but it really wouldn't serve any purpose.
d0ughb0y
Active member
thanks for the reply.
I did not glue the mat and it was a pain to align it flush with the tank and stand. Unless you can place the tank straight down in the correct spot in one shot over the yoga mat, sliding the tank will cause the mat to move. I have a 50 gallon tank, so maybe it is different for larger footprint.
I will use a little clear silicone caulk (same one I am using inside the stand) to hold the mat down when I move the tank and stand to its final position.
I think the Red Sea Reefer tanks have both the tank and sump mats glued down.
Just order a 240 gallon tank
Just order a 240 gallon tank
Just order a eurobraced 240 gallon tank and stand, ships out next Wednesday!
It only has two holes inside the overflow a 1" bulkhead and 1-1/2" bulkhead. I Suppose 1 1/2 brings water to the sump and the 1 inch is the return to the tank.
Should I worry about the tank not having an emergency drain? I notice many tanks have three bulkheads.
Just order a 240 gallon tank
Just order a eurobraced 240 gallon tank and stand, ships out next Wednesday!
It only has two holes inside the overflow a 1" bulkhead and 1-1/2" bulkhead. I Suppose 1 1/2 brings water to the sump and the 1 inch is the return to the tank.
Should I worry about the tank not having an emergency drain? I notice many tanks have three bulkheads.
Desert Sea
Member
I was supposed to take delivery of my custom 150 today. Got it off the back of the delivery trailer to find that some tow motor jockey put a fork into the back of the tank. I didn't even have to say a word. The driver took one look at it and said "ok let's get it back on trailer."
Steve was going to send out a new one tomorrow until he realized that mine was custom. Steve is having a new tank made for me. Ugh! I will say that his customer service is top notch.
Steve was going to send out a new one tomorrow until he realized that mine was custom. Steve is having a new tank made for me. Ugh! I will say that his customer service is top notch.
michael.lemke
New member
Talk to steve, he can have more holes drilled... he'll surely figure something out. He has done a great job helping my picky self.
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ReefCowboy
New member
Guys, looking for some help.
I plan on using a Synergy reef overflow 20" box in my 150 gal tank. The outter box has three 1.5" bulkeads. I got a custom sump which I had though had the same size intake bulkheads, but at close inspection noticed they are only 1" instead.
The tank will have high turnover, and at this point I though of two options:
1- Bring the sump to my acrylic guy and have him re-drill the sump intakes, increasing the bulkhead sizes from 1" to 1.5"( am avoiding this one as it would be a pain to move the sump around);
2- Use PVC reducers? In this case where would be best to place the reducers? Right below the outter box as water beggins to drain down or it doesnt matter? Will reducing from 1.5" to 1" cause pressure of the return pipes to increase noticeably maybe making noise down at the sump(gurgling)?
I plan on using a Synergy reef overflow 20" box in my 150 gal tank. The outter box has three 1.5" bulkeads. I got a custom sump which I had though had the same size intake bulkheads, but at close inspection noticed they are only 1" instead.
The tank will have high turnover, and at this point I though of two options:
1- Bring the sump to my acrylic guy and have him re-drill the sump intakes, increasing the bulkhead sizes from 1" to 1.5"( am avoiding this one as it would be a pain to move the sump around);
2- Use PVC reducers? In this case where would be best to place the reducers? Right below the outter box as water beggins to drain down or it doesnt matter? Will reducing from 1.5" to 1" cause pressure of the return pipes to increase noticeably maybe making noise down at the sump(gurgling)?
devildog999
That Guy
So this may seem to be a pretty stupid question, and I'm fairly sure the answer is yes because plumbing is plumbing but I have not plumbed a tank before (always bought used setups). Bought the SC 50g. For the flex pipes, do I need to use pvc primer and cement (purple and blue) to lock in place the hose connectors to the bulkheads? There are no instructions included and I would think you are supposed to, but I want to be sure first.
Thank you
Thank you
I have the same issue. The people at Synergy said to reduce right below the box. I wont be able to do that due to not having a supplier where i live that sells black pvc so i will be reducing mine right at the sump.
homer1475
New member
Spray paint is your friend in this situation. I've sprayed a few pieces of plumbing and it works great! You can't even tell I sprayed it.
Although I suppose just reducing at the sump would work too.
ReefCowboy
New member
Thanks for the feedback Bracka,
I decided to drill larger holes, so the sump also has now 1.5" drains, matching the box. I wont however be running all three drains from the box, as the third would add too much work due to the way my stand is designed, the third pipe would hit the supporting frame forcing me to rearange the whole plumbing and I didnt like the way it looked.
So I figured would increase flow with the 1.5" drains and only plumb two out of three.
I might just plug the third, or even run it and tee it to the secondary pipe down close by the sump. Im finding two safety drains to be excessive and more of a hassle than advantage to my build.
What I might also do is place a Neptune FMM sensor on the seconday return, and set it to notify me and shut the return pump if flow there climbs to almost as much as the primary drain, indicating the primary had clogged. That would be safer and save me the need for a third pipe, which would stay dry almost all the time anyways.
Old 1" Drains...
<a href="http://s1253.photobucket.com/user/Carlosjayme1/media/fb2914d6-3f98-44e2-a0dd-7c924d741539_zpsosifn6vn.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1253.photobucket.com/albums/hh583/Carlosjayme1/fb2914d6-3f98-44e2-a0dd-7c924d741539_zpsosifn6vn.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo fb2914d6-3f98-44e2-a0dd-7c924d741539_zpsosifn6vn.jpg"/></a>
And new 1.5" ones
<a href="http://s1253.photobucket.com/user/Carlosjayme1/media/20170906_085135_zpsruq8fcx1.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1253.photobucket.com/albums/hh583/Carlosjayme1/20170906_085135_zpsruq8fcx1.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20170906_085135_zpsruq8fcx1.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s1253.photobucket.com/user/Carlosjayme1/media/20170906_084944_zpsklrebfwu.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1253.photobucket.com/albums/hh583/Carlosjayme1/20170906_084944_zpsklrebfwu.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20170906_084944_zpsklrebfwu.jpg"/></a>
Last edited:
Thanks. I actually thought about doing that.
Glad you got it worked out. Hope to have mine plumbed soon.
michael.lemke
New member
So for those of you who have had your tanks drilled for the ghost overflow, does sca carry the overflow or should I just order one from brs or something?
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
soulpatch
New member
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