Seahorses in Reef Tank?

I'm curious about this as well. I've heard people say the necessary flow for a reef would be too much for them, and others say that statement is rubbish. So subbed.
 
generally other fish will out compete horses for food, and the flow required in reefs is too much for them to swim easily. Im not sure if there are other reasons people would suggest against it, but those two reasons alone are good enough to provide a species specific tank.
 
Well it's not impossible but not too probable.
Because of natural impediments to seahorses like nasty bacteria and pathogens they haven't been raised up exposed to, a reef tank setting is almost a death sentence.
Sometimes one lucks in to seahorses with systems that are able to resist these problems, but the majority are lost in the attempts to do so.
In the wild with the ever changing water flow, this is not so big a problem, but in our captive tanks, the nasty bacteria and pathogens can get out of hand, especially as temperatures get above 74°F. Exposure to other fish can lead to exposure to pathogens their systems may not be able to handle.
Seahorses can handle decent flows in the 10X to 20X range as long as there are areas of low, medium and high flow with hitching in each area and as long as no flow is strong enough to blow them against something and get damaged.
Any stinging corals are out, same with anemones.
Some sps type corals don't do well in seahorse water as it's too dirty from seahorse eating habits that leave a lot of uneaten food that can be trapped out of sight and provide bedding and food for the nasty bacteria.
They also masticate their food upon snicking it, and pass out micro particles into the water column further degrading the water quality.
It's my thoughts that the best chances of success in keeping seahorses will come with species dedicated systems, with overrated filtration and very overrated skimming. Even then it's no guarantee that you will succeed.
 
Well it's not impossible but not too probable.
Because of natural impediments to seahorses like nasty bacteria and pathogens they haven't been raised up exposed to, a reef tank setting is almost a death sentence.
Sometimes one lucks in to seahorses with systems that are able to resist these problems, but the majority are lost in the attempts to do so.
In the wild with the ever changing water flow, this is not so big a problem, but in our captive tanks, the nasty bacteria and pathogens can get out of hand, especially as temperatures get above 74°F. Exposure to other fish can lead to exposure to pathogens their systems may not be able to handle.
Seahorses can handle decent flows in the 10X to 20X range as long as there are areas of low, medium and high flow with hitching in each area and as long as no flow is strong enough to blow them against something and get damaged.
Any stinging corals are out, same with anemones.
Some sps type corals don't do well in seahorse water as it's too dirty from seahorse eating habits that leave a lot of uneaten food that can be trapped out of sight and provide bedding and food for the nasty bacteria.
They also masticate their food upon snicking it, and pass out micro particles into the water column further degrading the water quality.
It's my thoughts that the best chances of success in keeping seahorses will come with species dedicated systems, with overrated filtration and very overrated skimming. Even then it's no guarantee that you will succeed.

I've been reading everything you post on seahorses and its very helpful. I am in the middle of a seahorse tank build but since I only have 1 chiller I am forced to share the sump with my coral tank. I am slowly lowering the temperature until the max is 74 degrees. Does it help if no new fish get added to the coral tank or are the ones I already have carrying latent disease? I won't add new fish but typically my fish live forever so I expect to have these guys a long time. Also it helps to do faithful bigger than normal WCs, right? I am very good with that since I serviced tanks for years and know first hand the benefits of consistent WCs. I care about the animals and want a reasonable chance for them to thrive and if this is too risky I may consider downsizing my fish population to 2-3. I currently have 6 in the coral tank.
 
Removing fish from the system won't change anything as any pathogens they have introduced to the tank will still remain. There is no way to know ahead of time if those pathogens will be a negative affect on seahorses.
Adding new fish may or may not introduce problem pathogens.
It's because we have no way to know that the recommendation is to go species only tank for best chances of success.
I have seen the recommendation to place a properly sized UV in line where the water flows from the original system to the seahorse tank. That should at least improve the odds somewhat.
Is the seahorse tank not large enough to exist on it's own?
A 29/30g tank will suffice for a pair of standard sized seahorses.
 
Removing fish from the system won't change anything as any pathogens they have introduced to the tank will still remain. There is no way to know ahead of time if those pathogens will be a negative affect on seahorses.
Adding new fish may or may not introduce problem pathogens.
It's because we have no way to know that the recommendation is to go species only tank for best chances of success.
I have seen the recommendation to place a properly sized UV in line where the water flows from the original system to the seahorse tank. That should at least improve the odds somewhat.
Is the seahorse tank not large enough to exist on it's own?
A 29/30g tank will suffice for a pair of standard sized seahorses.

Its a 30g XH but we don't have AC and I only have 1 chiller and the coral tank also needs it here in western PA where our summer temps go over 90 degrees some times. The line with the UV is the one that will run in the seahorse tank and I have measured flow and its to the specifications of the manufacturer. I faithfully change bulbs too. However, maybe its time to think about central air for our home???? Then the seahorses could have the chiller to themselves.
 
However, maybe its time to think about central air for our home???? Then the seahorses could have the chiller to themselves.
Funny you mention that as I got central air because of all the tanks I had.
Central air ended up the cheapest way to go for so many tanks.
However, with one chiller, and no AC, how are you going to maintain two separate temperature levels as most reef temperatures are higher than the recommended seahorse tank temperature of 68° to 74°F?
 
Funny you mention that as I got central air because of all the tanks I had.
Central air ended up the cheapest way to go for so many tanks.
However, with one chiller, and no AC, how are you going to maintain two separate temperature levels as most reef temperatures are higher than the recommended seahorse tank temperature of 68° to 74°F?

My original thought was to slowly cool my reef to 72-74 degrees. All winter it ran about 76 and right now it is at 74 degrees. I have LPS and some mushrooms and they seem fine at 74. I won't get the same growth probably but since they are already sizable colonies I'd actually prefer them not to grow so fast. My biggest concern was for my crocea clam but it seems fine also. My husband likes to tell our friends that the fish tank has AC but we don't!!! Ha ha.
I was told if I use a daily probiotic in the water that can help fight pathogens, what do you think?
 
I dose Mic F but that is basically dosing a friendly bacteria to outcompete nasty bacteria. It does nothing to combat other pathogens like ciliates, nematodes, and other parasites common to fish.
 
I dose Mic F but that is basically dosing a friendly bacteria to outcompete nasty bacteria. It does nothing to combat other pathogens like ciliates, nematodes, and other parasites common to fish.

OK, thank you for all the good information. I will have to ponder my options awhile. I'm not planning on getting the seahorses until fall so I have some time.
 
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