Second try

Since your fish are gone I would take a step back, take a breath.

77 degrees is fine for your tank, if that is where it is at leave it alone consistency is the key. For salinity 1.026 is what to aim for but a little under is fine for now, consistency.

There is a sticky at the top of the forum called setting up, look for the big red arrow. It is full of good info and I believe it will help you.

Now equipment it seems you have a mixed bag. Before getting more fish I would get a few pieces to help you out first. From what I gather you do not have a powerhead and it seems there is a tight budget. Take a look at the Hydor Koralias they are on the low side price wise. I think a couple of the koralia nano 425's would do for now.

For daily top off you want to use fresh water not salt water. When your tank is full to where you want it with the salinity that you want, place a piece of tape or use a marker and mark the water line on the back corner of the tank. 24 hrs later look at where the level is in relation to the mark you made, it should be below the mark. This is your daily evaporation rate. Add fresh water back to the mark. This will go a long way to keeping your salinity consistent. When your able look at the JBJ auto top off it is relatively cheap compared to some of the others.

Using tap water is not the best. It is not only the chlorine/chloramines to worry about but also all the other minerals, metals that can accumulate over time. When possible get a RO/DI unit. If your in Canada I do not know if the sponsors on here ship there or not, but there are a number of Canadians on here. You may be able to find a local club that can give you some one on one help and possibly some deals on equipment.

I can't get the pest guys out of the picture. If you have a hang on back filter you can put on the tank to run some carbon, this will help to remove any possible contaminants from these guys. In addition I would do a water change. There was a guy on here a year or so ago that was having problems with fish dying. It turned out it was the plug in air freshener that was shooting out fragrance into the room.

Good luck just my 2 cents.
 
Maxl: Ok, will add chloramine test to shopping list:thumbsup:

Unclel: Am consider the Ro Di unit, but trying to keep costs to minimum for now, since I already spent more than expected on this...
I can add more sand but didn't others say I shouldn't? #confused

Tisbe: I am in Toronto and using Seachem Prime. Ok will get the used small tank and put an old filter in it (I have two, one was inherited) and a regular lamp for now, then will buy a powerhead for the DT, can I just get one and keep the air stone instead of the second? or not a good idea? also in QT, how do I know what's wrong with the fish if they're not well and which medication to use?

Heath: Ok will test the fresh seawater just in case.
Also why do they suggest keeping salinity between 21-23 and both you and Max suggest higher?

Toni: Thanks for the advice, will do the marker thing for now and get the auto top off as soon as i can. I mention the powerheads above and RO Di unit above (will check out if there are any local clubs)
Ok will run the filter for a bit, it will help prep it for the QT tank as well...



Thanks for the help so far!
 
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Heath: Ok will test the fresh seawater just in case.
Also why do they suggest keeping salinity between 21-23 and both you and Max suggest higher?
Who suggests 21 - 23? What is the ocean's salinity?
 
Heath: Ok will test the fresh seawater just in case.
Also why do they suggest keeping salinity between 21-23 and both you and Max suggest higher?
Who suggests 21 - 23? What is the ocean's salinity?

Ocean's salinity is 1.026. To the OP, aim for 1.025-.026

I agree with tony's advice. You need to take a step back, and add all of the things neseccary to keep your fish alive before you get any more fish. It seems like money is a bit tight for you right now, and I get that. I've been there, but saving up and realizing that the only thing that is always constant in saltwater is that things don't happen overnight, patience is always key. You've got a ton of advice in this thread, and in the stickies, so I would read through those! They helped me out a ton. And also, spend time reading all of the threads you see, and soon you'll know a ton, and be able to care for your fish!
 
Heath: Ok will test the fresh seawater just in case.
Also why do they suggest keeping salinity between 21-23 and both you and Max suggest higher?
Who suggests 21 - 23? What is the ocean's salinity?

People suggest a lower salinity level for fish only tanks because the fish can handle it and a lower salinity level (lower than 21 even) can prevent certain diseases from spreading.

I wouldn't recommend this for you. It doesn't sound like diseases to me.

I also wouldn't recommend a RODI unit. Find a LFS that sells RODI water. Buy it by the gallon there. Its easier and much cheaper for someone starting out.

Get a cheap Korilia Hydor off Amazon. I had a couple in my tank to start and they are great. Ditch the air stone when the powerhead arrives. You want the powerhead to be closer to the surface to "agitate" the surface. This helps exchange gases in and out of the tank which will help your fishies.
 
People suggest a lower salinity level for fish only tanks because the fish can handle it and a lower salinity level (lower than 21 even) can prevent certain diseases from spreading.

I wouldn't recommend this for you. It doesn't sound like diseases to me.

I also wouldn't recommend a RODI unit. Find a LFS that sells RODI water. Buy it by the gallon there. Its easier and much cheaper for someone starting out.

Get a cheap Korilia Hydor off Amazon. I had a couple in my tank to start and they are great. Ditch the air stone when the powerhead arrives. You want the powerhead to be closer to the surface to "agitate" the surface. This helps exchange gases in and out of the tank which will help your fishies.

I don't feel that fish should have to "handle " a lower salinity, they have enough to deal with.
 
I don't feel that fish should have to "handle " a lower salinity, they have enough to deal with.

By saying handle I mean they survive just fine in it when acclimated over a period of time. This is a very common practice and many LFS do this to keep diseases down in their systems. It is by no means torture or negligence.
 
By saying handle I mean they survive just fine in it when acclimated over a period of time. This is a very common practice and many LFS do this to keep diseases down in their systems. It is by no means torture or negligence.

I understand. ... I worked at one of the most exclusive fish stores in Atlanta for many years....I get it.
I just don't do it to more sensitive fish that I started to collect
 
My tank is in the works. I'll let you know when it's finished! [emoji16]


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Hi again,

Heath: on back hydrometer package it says that 1.021-1.023 is best for marine aquariums and 1.024-1.026 for reef aquariums. I also remember seeing these numbers on other instruction manuals and sites.

Bigbluetang: Thanks, that's what I am trying to do now, I guess I didn't realize how much work this was going to be when I started so am just trying to catch up..:fish2::o:crazy1::reading:

Davehead86: as I mention above about the salinity...I guess that's why the packages recommend it...but gotcha, will keep it higher. Understood about powerheads and RoDi water (although I guess it might cost more in the long run if I keep buying water, right?)

That's a lot of info, you guys are great:beer:
 
By saying handle I mean they survive just fine in it when acclimated over a period of time. This is a very common practice and many LFS do this to keep diseases down in their systems. It is by no means torture or negligence.

Please show a source to show how keeping salinity at .021-.022 keeps diseases down? As far as I'm concerned, LFS's just do it to save on salt, and the fish can live in it. Unless you drop the salinity to 1.008 it's not going to do anything for diseases. AFAIK, there are more fish in the ocean than in captivity, and the ocean keeps it at 1.026..
Just saying! If you can show me a source that says this, by all means, I am ready to admit I am wrong. This is a common myth, and it's flaunted by LFS owners so that people will not QT.
 
Hi again,

Heath: on back hydrometer package it says that 1.021-1.023 is best for marine aquariums and 1.024-1.026 for reef aquariums. I also remember seeing these numbers on other instruction manuals and sites.

Bigbluetang: Thanks, that's what I am trying to do now, I guess I didn't realize how much work this was going to be when I started so am just trying to catch up..:fish2::o:crazy1::reading:

Davehead86: as I mention above about the salinity...I guess that's why the packages recommend it...but gotcha, will keep it higher. Understood about powerheads and RoDi water (although I guess it might cost more in the long run if I keep buying water, right?)

That's a lot of info, you guys are great:beer:

Don't believe everything you read. What you are trying to do is replicate the ocean.
Keep asking questions, and happy reefing
 
Don't believe everything you read. What you are trying to do is replicate the ocean.

Keep asking questions, and happy reefing



I agree with this. Replicate the ocean as close as possible. That is what the fish and corals are genetically coded to. It's like dieting. You want to stay healthy, don't take pills, just keep your calories at an optimal amount for your genetics and energy level. Trying to limit diseases or create a result by playing with ratios is like playing god. The environment and ecosystem is what it is. It's our responsibility to the animals to keep that as close to the "is" as possible and the animals we keep as happy and healthy as possible.
 
Joshbrookkate: thanks, it does make sense I will go aquarium shopping this weekend and make the final decision on this.

Heath: Ok, understood, thank you!

Max: I am learning, thanks!

Awesome advice everyone, hopefully this time it will work
 
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