fishnugget
Active member
Need help on choosing proper lighting to bring out best coloration.
Any ideas? Prefer not MH due to electrical usage.
Any ideas? Prefer not MH due to electrical usage.
Setting Up 90 Gallon Help?
- Thread starter fishnugget
- Start date
gflat65
New member
I've always been a VHO/Mh fan. In a 90, with it being so deep, it may be difficult to get good penetration to the bottom with VHO's or PC's (unless you run a lot of them-4 tubes or so). For softies and zoas, I'm sure PC's or VHO's would be enough, though. To inch into MH, maybe try 175W SE's (I haven't been impressed with the 175 DE's under any color). They aren't going to give off as much heat as 250's (which would be my normal approach to a 90). I get better colors out of MH/VHO combinations than any other combination, but that is my opinion. You can get VHO's from hellolights.com and build the system yourself for ~$100 for (2) 4' bulbs (ARO ballast and add bulbs and endcaps). You have to wire them, but there isn't much to it. I replace PC's and VHO's every six months, so when I look at replacement costs, it is cheaper for me to run a 175W MH and (2) VHO's than to run (4) VHO's in the long run. If you go with PC's, I'd recommend the Oddyssea bulbs from aquatraders. The Oddyssea fixtures have been in question (don't own a fixture, so can't comment), but have been running the bulbs for 6 months and get nice color (50/50 and actinic 65W'ers).
Everyone has their opinion on lighting, though, so you may get as may options as responses. HTH
Everyone has their opinion on lighting, though, so you may get as may options as responses. HTH
alexinfla
New member
A few thoughts come to mind with your said goal being a bit of reduced electrical power. These are just some of my notes from the years, and hopefully give you some food for thought.
- Usually, by the time you get enough T-5's/Vho's/PC's to have adequate penetration, growth, asthetics, you end up into the same general wattage areas you would be with metal halides.
-Now when it comes time to replace all those bulbs, you may very well wish you had gone with a pair of halides....simple cost of bulb replacement vs. savings, if any, on electrical usage.
-With more systems running today with reduced photo periods, yet still able to achieve photo saturation in the corals, you can run the halides for 3-6 hours (based around your viewing schedule) and still get all the growth, color, and look you desire.
-Reduced photo period = less heat, less electrical, less wear on bulbs.
-Electronic ballasts for the halides run more efficiently than magnetics.
-Shimmer is good
Ok, hope that helps, good luck.
- Usually, by the time you get enough T-5's/Vho's/PC's to have adequate penetration, growth, asthetics, you end up into the same general wattage areas you would be with metal halides.
-Now when it comes time to replace all those bulbs, you may very well wish you had gone with a pair of halides....simple cost of bulb replacement vs. savings, if any, on electrical usage.
-With more systems running today with reduced photo periods, yet still able to achieve photo saturation in the corals, you can run the halides for 3-6 hours (based around your viewing schedule) and still get all the growth, color, and look you desire.
-Reduced photo period = less heat, less electrical, less wear on bulbs.
-Electronic ballasts for the halides run more efficiently than magnetics.
-Shimmer is good
Ok, hope that helps, good luck.
.
majestic sea life
New member
i run 2 175watt MH's over my 90gal. But im adding 2 VHO's. But get this. The tank is only FOWLR lol. I maybe just keep with with zoas also tho.
jessiesgrrl
In Memoriam
:eek2:
Wow, over a FOWLR... now, THAT is addiction... I bet the fish will go soon in favor of the reef with lighting like that though!!!
:lol:
Laurie
