setting up on an uneven surface

wing nut,

the thinset is used as an adhesive for the cement.

first, mix the thinset. Make it watery. take a bucket and a sponge and spread it on the hearth.

then mix your cement (1 part concrete, 4 parts sand) and dump it on top while the thinset is still wet (be sure it is multipurpose quickset thinset). This will ensure your cement attaches to the hearth stone.

Then all you have to do is level it out with two-by-fours and a level. Case closed.

Bristleworm,

gravity pulls water down not sideways.
 
gravity pulls water down not sideways. [/B]

Did I say that water is pulled sideways? I don't get what you're saying and it doesn't really jive with what's been discussed. If you've found any bit of what I've already stated to not be true, please say so, because your comment about gravity doesn't reference anything I've said.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12017836#post12017836 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bladeruner143 [/i]
150 pounds of bodyweight...
LOL, I wish I still weighed that much!!!

When I first typed it I put 200 pounds, but I decided to be more diplomatic. :)

You can size the plywood test piece so that whatever your bodyweight is divided by 1.5 will be the total square inches of the plywood piece.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12018953#post12018953 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bristlew0rm
Did I say that water is pulled sideways? I don't get what you're saying and it doesn't really jive with what's been discussed.

I think that's a reference to your comments about why glass tanks should be level.

But really, if a glass tank is resting on a FLAT surface that is not level it's no big deal as far as the water pressures and distribution of weight in the tank or onto the stand.

The weight of the water will always be exerting pressure/force straight down (as I think you said), even if the sides of the tank were at 45 degrees to the floor.

I don't think that if the tank was even out of level by say, 1/2" that the strains on the bonds would be significantly different than if the tank were resting perfectly level. The (flexible) bonds are all either being pressed towards the glass by water pressure (in the corners), or the bonds have glass pressing against them by water pressure (inside the tank's trim). Out of level won't change that or try to pull a pane of glass away from its bond.

I think we all agree that the bad thing for a glass tank is when it rests on a surface that is not flat, because in that case the glass would first try to pull away from its bonds and if that didn't happen enough then the glass could flex only a tiny bit before it broke.
 
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Hehehe......let me just add a little food for thought for you all to ponder on, and thats that, do what you like.

1. Topic du jour: Interesting place to put it, adds elevation for viewing, gets is off the rock. It would be super cool to have a drain there. My concern: Most of the hearths though built in rock and stone are usually just laminates with minor jointing. I would be concerned with these jointed, discountinued sections of rock being able to hold the wait without cracking. At most a minor visual irritation. How about below it? How is the platform those rocks built upon constructed. Below that, Its likely due to the size of the tank and its proximity to the corner of the foundation as is seems to be, not an issue.

2. I thought building up the surface a better mode as well. However, I had envisioned more of a 1" wire reinforced pad, rather than thinset. I am picturing a thin layer of leveling thinset to eventually become brittle and crack away.

3. Foam............WarrenG debated this to some length a few months ago. Prior to that discussion the subject had been on my mind, during the discussion over those couple of days, and ever since.

As I said last time, foam under a tank is a much debated concept, some say yes, others no. Though the concept sounds very sound, something raises the hairs on my neck about. Which is why I recended my stance before to relegate for more information before comming to a conclusion.

It is even split down the lines of manufacturers, with the Engineer's at Aqueon (All-glass) saying not to. And then you have the others that claim "I have always placed foam under my tank and its been fine" This is just plain poor logic, and one who's tank did not crack and spill water all over the floor can not tell what effect and to what degree the foam helped or hindered.

One of the main logical fallacies we as Reefers are prone to is the over utilization of observation through sight only. Cause and Effect, A=B, 1+2=3..........we draw observational inferences from limited statistical data through observation only and try to come up with catch all/stead fast rules to be governed by.
Most of the time, because of the scale and the degree of error to which we are working in we are safe, but as we get into larger and larger models (tanks), we begin to see our logic break down as the things we did not think to consider have an effect on the system. This is EXACTLY why we see so many people who are setting up their second or third tanks and have problems selecting the wrong pumps. As the stakes get larger, the circumstances are greater, and our delinquencies shown. This would be main point here. In small scale tanks, you can get away with murder as far as placement orientation, equipment selection you name it........on a bigger tank, if you don't select the right pump that is operating within its BEP range, you can end up with a poor preforming, expensive pump because we were using the same "rule of thumb" for a smaller tank than a big one or designing the system after buying the pump rather before. This is how I will comment on using foam underneath a tank.

In my research before, during and since the last discussion on the subject, I dug through each of my Mechanical Engineering textbooks looking for a similar application, researched hours of articles on the subject, even consulted with my peers who are also Mechanical Engineers on the subject, even going as far as to ask the wife of a friend who is a Materials Engineer with Lockheed Martin. All had the same response I have, "Maybe, but I wouldn't risk it."

Why? For the basic statics of the situation, most have a basic understanding of the subject, but there is a lot that is overlooked and brought into the equation when this material is introduced. The main problem with this discussion is: Nobody can really tell until it tested. You see, foam is a semi-rigid body and varies with different compositions. Its at the point that it is settled and compressed that concerns me. Discussions of dynamic loading, sheer strength of the two planes, a failure due to fatique have never been considered, especially factors of safety.

True, you may lessen a stress point or a discontinuity eliminating some of the stress on the bottom pane, but that may open up another set of problems that you may have not considered.

I found this quote in a preview of a journal article I that uses words other than my own.

"On the Crushing Stress of Open Cell Foams

The compressive response of many foams is characterized by an initial linearly elastic regime which is terminated by instability. For open cell foams instability leads to localized buckling and collapse of zones of cells. Local collapse in these zones is terminated by contact between cell ligaments. "


Of course, remember I have not defined which tanks we are speaking of. It seems to be current thought that it is accetable practice to place foam under acrylic tanks to ensure distributed loading. I could agree with this provided that the thickness was not extreme so as to bring about other problems. Think of the princess and the pea. Once she couldn't feel that pea under all those materess which compressed and took in all the feel of the pea, how stable do you think it was to shear loading? I digress.

In reefing the stakes get higher the farther you climb be it with livestock, expensive fish or larger tanks. There is always less room for error, and what applied before may not apply now. This is my main concern of the catch all of using "foam" and makes me nervous. Thicknesses, densities, sizes change which change all of the rules. For instance is a chart I made up quickly to illustrate the loading on the rims of glass tanks. As you can see, the psi increase with tank size.

TankLoading.jpg


It shows the stakes get larger as the tank gets bigger, so one "catch all" rule has the potential for mistake, it is up to the individual to make that call for themselves and what makes them more comfortable.

My answer on foam......I don't know as semi-rigid bodies are unpredictable, especially when the application for the material can not be found elsewhere.



Water pushes in all directions, not just down which is why spheres are best in high pressure depths. The Normal force is force that is straight down. In your tank, the water is always pushing out in every direction, trying to split the joints to "find its lowest point".

This is what I have discovered in my research on the subject and thought I would share it with you guys. This is my .02, please use it to ponder to make your own decision.
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12021596#post12021596 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dots
My concern: Most of the hearths though built in rock and stone are usually just laminates with minor jointing. I would be concerned with these jointed, discountinued sections of rock being able to hold the wait without cracking.


I share that concern.

IF the stone install was done properly there wouldn't be any places under the stone without supporting thinset.

But, if the thinset was applied too thin, or left to dry too long before the stone was laid on and compressed the thinset evenly, then there could be voids under the stone.

Slate tiles are not uniformly flat on either of their faces-they're not like most stone or ceramic tiles in this regard. When I installed our slate entryway I used more care than I do with other types of stone, and occasionally extra amounts of thinset in local areas were needed to ensure there were no voids under the stone.

And if the slate is not more than about a 3/8 inch thick it's not especially strong, probably not strong enough to support the tank over a significant void in the thinset that was say, 1/8" high.

Pouring the concrete pad over the slate, or using the firm foam under plywood would reduce these concerns significantly.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12019352#post12019352 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by WarrenG
I think that's a reference to your comments about why glass tanks should be level.

But really, if a glass tank is resting on a FLAT surface that is not level it's no big deal as far as the water pressures and distribution of weight in the tank or onto the stand.

The weight of the water will always be exerting pressure/force straight down (as I think you said), even if the sides of the tank were at 45 degrees to the floor.

I don't think that if the tank was even out of level by say, 1/2" that the strains on the bonds would be significantly different than if the tank were resting perfectly level. The (flexible) bonds are all either being pressed towards the glass by water pressure (in the corners), or the bonds have glass pressing against them by water pressure (inside the tank's trim). Out of level won't change that or try to pull a pane of glass away from its bond.

I think we all agree that the bad thing for a glass tank is when it rests on a surface that is not flat, because in that case the glass would first try to pull away from its bonds and if that didn't happen enough then the glass could flex only a tiny bit before it broke.

I see what you're saying ... I guess I am partially making assumptions about the reason glass tanks explode 50x more often than acrylic. You're probably right that a 1/2" wouldn't make much difference at all.
 
Exploding tank with corals falling onto the carpet, not a pretty thought.

We can imagine what some of those tank stands looked like, resting on an uneven floor, before the explosion. Glass will twist, for awhile.
 
In that case, I stand by my previous advice. There is very little risk of the stones cracking if the tank stand is resting on cured cement.

A more valid concern is the one someone mentioned above, to the effect that there may inadequate support under the hearth. This however, can be easily rectified by adding one or two support pillars underneathe.

Good luck.
 
I don't like the cured concrete thing because now you've got 3-4" of concrete sitting on top of the floor and then the stand (maybe covering it). And that concrete adds a considerable amount of weight... approximately 185-220 pounds, depending on size and thickness.

If you don't care about the stones, remove them. That way if you ever want some stone there again you can add them back. Just make sure you have some spare stones now because you'll break the stones getting them out and you may not be able to find the stone and color match later.

Related to Sheldon's comments... it might help to know what the support under the floor is like, but an 80 gallon tank isn't heavy enough to be overly concerned, especially if it rests (spans) perpendicular to 2-3 floor joists. Or maybe the floor is concrete slab?
 
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The house was built in the 60's and it has a raised floor, but I blieve the hearth is solid concrete I will look underneath when I get home.

Thanks again guys for all your help. I really appricate it.
 
180690hearth_006.jpg


180690hearth_001.jpg


Here are the two worse spots on the hearth. The biggest difference is about a 1/4" of an inch.

I spoke with an engineer at work about the idea of the foam and the board he said that would work. If I filled and leveled the top of the slate will the leveling compound withstand the weight of the tank and stand??

Boy! this project is not as easy as I thought it was going to be.
 
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