Snapper or Dart Plumbing question with pictures

corals b 4 bills

New member
I am upgrading my current 155 gallon tank to a 225 Starphire this year and the previous owner had a Dart on it but he told me that it was too much for his application, so I bought a snapper pump and after looking at the plumbing configuration I'm wodering if this pump will be too weak. I just finished the dry fit today but nothing is glued yet, the tank has 2x 1 1/2" drains and 2x 1" returns, the capped off 1" pipe on the left will be for a 40-60 gallon frag tank in my fish room. Please give me your opinion on the plumbing layout and if you think the snapper pump will be enough.

Thank you,
Mark

Btw if you like DIY stuff here is a couple pics of the light rack I made yesturday, I also made the stand.

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depending on how you like your flow through either should run okay. can just buy the impeller, as difference btwn dart snapper and super dart is just that. i have dart gold and it works well in this situation, but think the snapper woulda been fine. check my little red house... dart gold runs my mani with plenty to spare
 
Thank you for your help now I won't have to worry about changing out pumps. So how is my plumbing? anyone have comments before I need to seal it up?
 
i have a question since you are running a fuge in the sump and i see the bulk head in the fuge is running kind of high are you going to run this sump at 90% full? If so you dont have a check valve of some sort on your returns. it would over flow your sump thru your returns when you turn off the pump.

Also on those two drain going into the sump i would place another union on each one above the sump so in any case you would need to remove the sump you can remove half the drain pipes with out a problem.
 
The "T" on the return is gonna kill the flow rate. Also I dont see a check valve.

Looks really clean. I dig the gray sch40.
 
The Fuge is about 2" lower then the top of the sump and the water level will be at the height of the bubble traps which is about 70%, I think I have unions everywhere? I see what your saying.....there are unions on the tank bulkheads as well and one on the return outlet.

When it came to the "T" I wasn't sure how from one to two without a "T", do you have a way to bypass this? and where should I put a check valve just before where the T is now?

Thank's for your replies guy's!
 
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