So it begins, 90G build thread

I use 1/2 a cup of carbon changed 2 times a month. This is more then probably needed on my 30 cube. I would say the same would work well for you on a 90. You want to change the carbon somewhat regularly as it will trap detritus and other crud even with an upflow design. I haven't seen any reactors that come with a pump. I use a small pump ~100 gph for mine and it works well.

Kalkwasser is a balanced supplement meaning it adds calcium and alkalinity in the appropriate proportions. The ph of saturated kalkwasser is 12.0+ so it needs to be added slowly. Tieing a kalkwasser reactor into a tunze osmolator works wonderfully. Kalkwasser is a weak supplement so it will not raise your calcium and alk to high levels. Its more of a maintenance item. Your tank will most likely consume ca/alk at the same pace or faster then the kalkwasser adds so no real worries about over dosing . The concern with over dosing is PH.

A controller can come into play in a few ways. If its an aquarium controller you can use it to turn the pump on the reactor on and off at set intervals. Whether or not you need this depends on the type of reactor you have. Some reactors use a small pump to mix the kalkwasser. These usually come on for 5 minutes a couple times a day to keep the topoff water fully saturated with kalkwasser. Using a controller in this instance has nothing to do with the amount of kalk dosed into your aquarium. The same thing can be accomplished with a simple timer. All it does is turn the pump on the reactor on and off to keep the kalkwasser saturated.

Some reactors (deltec and aquamedic) use a bar that rotates very slowly 24/7 slow enough to keep the kalkwasser powder from being dosed into the aquarium. These types do not use a timer

The other way you can use a controller is with a ph probe. You can put the probe into the aquarium and have it shut off the dosing if the ph gets to high. In this case if the ph gets to high the topoff unit will stop dosing kalkwasser and prevent a ph spike or course this will also shut off your topoff unit. Basically this is a back up for your auto topoff unit malfunctioning and over dosing kalk.

The controller doesn't decide the amount of kalk used. The amount of evaporated water does. Hopefully this is clear. If not just say what isnt and im sure we can straighten it out.
 
That does clear it up. I didn't understand how the ATO would still work if the Kalkwasswer reactor was shut down. Since it shuts both down, that does make since. For the plumbing, do you run the Kalkwasser through the reactor or does it 'T' into the ATO line?

BTW, MattG do you have a copy of the instructions for the skimmer? If so, do you have the ability to scan it for me?
 
The pump that is used for autotopoff pumps freshwater directly to the reactor. Then a piece of tubing goes from the reactor to your aquarium. As water is pumped into the reactor the same amount of saturated kalkwasser water is displaced from the reactor to your aquarium. There is no T involved.

I don't have a copy of the instructions for the skimmer you might try the finsreef forum. If i recall they were less then a page and not much help.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11534203#post11534203 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by radone
Mike,
This is why I recommend the 1262, you can run other equipment with the added output

My only issue with the 1262 is that it might be too much flow. What other equipment would you suggest I run with the added output.

It sounds like a single Maxi-Jet 600 would be enough for the fluid reactor. The osmolator would drive the Kalkwasser reactor from my understanding.
 
My return is a Dart, therefore I have 4 1" returns to the tank, I also feed my CA Reactor and 2 TLF phosban reactors. Still need to hook the chiller into the loop but location is something I need to work out.

Basically what I'm saying is even though you have an Eheim 1262 and the flow might be more than your return can handle you still have the ability to feed other equipment with only one pump. Drawback here is if that pump craps out you'll be left DIW. If it were me I'd get a back-up pump later down the road.
As for ATO I use a 30 gallon barrel and that is my "kalk reactor", I top-off at night when my pH drops, I don't have this tied into my controller yet but will eventually. Like Matt said if you add water the saturated goes to your tank.
A kalk reactor can go in the sump or external if you wish, most people I know dose kalk and supplement with a CA Reactor or 2-Part.
Kalk is not a significant source of calcium or alkalinity but will raise or lower your pH depending on the 2-part formula used.
BTW if your good with a soldering iron I have the plans for an ATO,mines been running a couple of years now without a problem (This is where you can save yourself some $$$) I think I have about $40.00 in mine


HTH
 
Just be careful, DIYs are great but when it comes to critical pieces of equipment like an ATO you want 0 to close to 0 as you can get failure points. Saving $100 dollars or more sounds great right now but when you weigh that savings against the cost of a major catastrophe in your tank that could cost you thousands of dollars that $100 or so is just isn't that bad of a price IMO. Just some friendly advice you don't want an overflow incident or at least you want a way to stop it if it does occur.
 
So true Ron that's why I have my ATO on a timer and my controller controls the timer. Backup to a backup ;)
 
I just have a small ATO tank that even if it runs it dry it will top the tank out just shy of overflowing.
 
Yep make sure you have backups for backups and you should be fine. But remember this, somethign will eventually fail no matter what steps you take, were here to help when it does.
 
Tunze001.jpg



One more addition to the stack. This is slow like I knew it would be, but I'm starting to get excited about some of this recent progress.

(edit to add)
Just to clarify, the excitement is over the blue boxes and not the salt buckets. ;)
 
Next step is running a new circuit for juice. Right now I'm overloaded as it is, so I'm doing another 20 amp breaker. I was planning to run my entire office off of it, but now I'm leaning toward making it a dedicated line for the tank.

Also, I'm staring to think about Live Rock again. I have 18lbs or LR ready and 25lbs or Marco rock seeded. WIth the dry Fiji rocks being so pourous and dry, it is probably more like 40lbs. So, I'm at about 60lbs total. I'm torn between adding the rest in dry Fiji or a mix of dry and live.
 
New circuit will come in handy when the tank breaker blows. At least you'll have lights in the room to see what caused it.
 
Big update today. :D

Sunlight Supply Maristar dual 250W HQI with 2 - 54W T5HO fixture. Not shown is a Sunlight Supply Galaxy electronic ballast.



SunlightSupplyMaristar.jpg




I was all about T5HO lighting, matter of fact I'm still a big believer in the technology. The reason I changed my mind on this is mainly because I wanted a fixture rather than a canopy, just personal preference. I knew the importance of good reflectors in the T5HO lighting, what I didn't understand was the importance of proper cooling. To lowest price T5 fixture that I know of which come with SLR, true T5 spec ballast, and active cooling is the ATI Powermodule. A 6 bulb unit with bulbs runs $800. Not too bad for a top notch fixture, but still far from cheap. I was considering this option when I ran across a good buy on the Maristar.

The T5 has certain advantages which I like, but the HQI has some of it's own. In the end, I decided on the Maristar on price alone. I think it will do the job nicely.
 
I think you'll be happy with going to halides and a T-5 setup, you should be able to keep almost everything.

Good choice if your not going with a canopy IMHO ;)
 
Thanks guys. I feel lucky to have found the deals that I have so far. I started RC right at one year ago and hoped I would have had a tank up and running 11 months ago. Lucky for me, I didn't have the money at the time. Even without money, I keep reading. I changed my mind a few dozen times on tank size and even if I should do a tank at all.

I think my first salt water purchase was 18 lbs or live rock last summer. My plan was to build a 10G nano. Before that tank was setup, I decided to put together a 40B, then ultimately I decided to go with a 90G. I'm so fortunate that the purchased I made for both the 10G and 40G can still be used in this build. When I had the 10G in mind, I purchased 18lbs of LR. While it was curing I got the idea for the 40B. For that build I purchased the tank, the RO/DI, 25 lbs of dry Marco rocks, and a Koralia 3 powerhead. All of that equipment will work in my 90, including the 40B which will become my sump. I'm getting pretty close to adding water now ;)

Next purchase will be some more dry Fiji rocks from Marco. Not sure if I will complete the tank with that or do a mixture of the Marco and more LR.

While that is curing I will need to get a return pump, put dividers in my sump, sand, AquaController Jr, and get my stand built. I hope to get it running by the end of February.
 
Looks good. I can't wait for you to get it all put together. Remember it is better to take your time with the build and get everything "right" the first time. It is much harder to go back and fix stuff after the tank is set up with water in it.
 
Another small update. Finally finished my floor. While it looked pretty bad before, it looks much better than it did for the many of years which shag carpet covered the room. I had every intention to refinish the floor, but always put it off. Well, since the tank will go up in the room it was the encouragement I needed. It is far from a professional job, but I'm pleased with the results.



FloorBefore01.jpg


Before



FloorAfter01.jpg


After
 
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