She has a nice section in the book on host anemones, including specific information regarding the clowns that will host in each species, the geographic distribution in the wild, and then the section from which I quoted on the subject of husbandry. It's a very good book with all you need to know on all the clowns. I'm sure you can get it on amazon.com or maybe in Barnes Noble or Borders.
So you say tap water is no good? Hmm..
- Thread starter dasstheboss
- Start date
I've been running tap in my 10 gal. for a year now. It's going well. I had just the average algae issues. Even those with RO/DI get new tank algaes, and to claim otherwise is irresponsible. However, now that my new tankness has eased off, everything is doing well.
I might mention that I live in SC and I have de-salinated RO/DI from the tap which makes it much better.
I might mention that I live in SC and I have de-salinated RO/DI from the tap which makes it much better.
On the subject of tap water, does anyone (Randy) know if a countertop water filtration system would improve the quality of tap water. I have an Aquasana 4000 which uses carbon block, cocunut shell and a potassium ion exchange filter. I've never used it for makeup water for a marine tank, but use it for drinking water. I know it is supposed to remove lead and other heavy metals using potassium as a replacement ion for these. I also understand that it doesn't remove phosphate. Would the potassium be an issue?
I doubt the potassium is a concern, but I am skeptical of them in general due to the small size (and hence low ion exchange capacity).
spike78
New member
After what I've seen build up in the foam block prefilter of my RO/DI unit, I won't be switching to tap water anytime soon.
The fact of the matter is that tap water is highly variable depending on where you live. Because one person has success with it does not equate to everyone having success.
It might also relate that the original poster stated that he did not often change water. This would limit the import and buildup of any impurities in the imported water and would reduce the risk of a negative impact from less than pure water would it not?
The fact of the matter is that tap water is highly variable depending on where you live. Because one person has success with it does not equate to everyone having success.
It might also relate that the original poster stated that he did not often change water. This would limit the import and buildup of any impurities in the imported water and would reduce the risk of a negative impact from less than pure water would it not?
Thank you for the information. You're quick. Now I'm thinking about getting a RO unit. I've never had a problem with my tap water (Los Angeles), but some of the posts imply that the water varies constantly and so maybe I've just been lucky. I don't want to hijack this thread at all, but would someone suggest a relatively inexpensive RO that I don't have to do anything invasive to the plumbing--I'm in a rental. I think I know the answer to this next question, but just in case, is there any need for the use of a dechlorinator/dechloraminator with RO water?
AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
A good portion of LA uses imported Colorado River water and its some of the highest TDS around. Phoenix uses the same water and my TDS is over 800! Hardness is high and there is a higher than normal instance of traces of rocket fuels/propellants to. RO/DI is the only way to go.
AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
Yep. I have used RO for drinking since 1992. My present system is a Spectrapure MaxCap dual membrane system with a 14 gallon pressure tank.
AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
With our high TDS its the only system I would consider. They have the only individually hand tested and guaranteed 98+% rejection rate RO membranes on the market. My system is 17 months old and producing 99.23% average rejection RO only water without DI. Thats a tap water TDS of 835 and an RO only TDS of between 5.3 and 6.2. After the DI it is a true 0 TDS and I have made about 1800 gallons of water only replacing the MaxCap DI cartridge twice in all that time. With my old 75 GPD system even using high quality replacement filters and a Dow membrane I was getting an RO only TDS of 13-15 and nuclear grade DI resin was lasting me 150 gallons per 20 oz. fresh sealed refill. Quite a difference.
Agu
Premium Member
GoingPostal,
I'd be very interested in know where you live in MN and what you define as "tap Water" ? I lived there for several years. For most of the state the water is very high in mineral content and most public utilities use ortho phosphates to keep the minerals in suspension so it doesn't coat the pipes. In addition seasonal rains cause fertilizer runoff resulting in nitrates off the charts. I know this because I reviewed the annual water quality reports all public utilities are required to report. Waterchanges only work to replenish the nitrates and phosphates used by existing algae. My only attempt using tap water in Minnesota resulted in an algae farm of biblical proportions.
jme,
I'd be very interested in know where you live in MN and what you define as "tap Water" ? I lived there for several years. For most of the state the water is very high in mineral content and most public utilities use ortho phosphates to keep the minerals in suspension so it doesn't coat the pipes. In addition seasonal rains cause fertilizer runoff resulting in nitrates off the charts. I know this because I reviewed the annual water quality reports all public utilities are required to report. Waterchanges only work to replenish the nitrates and phosphates used by existing algae. My only attempt using tap water in Minnesota resulted in an algae farm of biblical proportions.
jme,
I have been following this thread with much interest. I have a couple of questions.
First, do you think my under-sink filtration system (GE Smartwater) can produce decent enough quality water to mix salt for my FOWLR tanks (with some hardy soft corals and LPS)? Here is a link to the system I have at home:
http://www.geappliances.com/smartwater/model_fs.htm?GXSL55F
Currently, I use this water for top-off. I dechlorinate (we have chloramines) and buffer to 8.3. Right now, I am using pre-mixed saltwater from the LFS for water changes.
Second, how is the SpectraPure Maxcap DI to install? I am interested in knowing what is the easiest RO/DI system to install and use (for those of us with negligible plumbing skills). If the water from my under-sink system is not sufficient for my aquariums, I'd like to put in an RO/DI system, but don't really know where to start.
Also, there was a question about removing chloramines. Since they are present in my water, what is the best way to deal with them if you have an RO/DI system? I did read Randy's article on chlorine and chloramines - basic take home was that a decent RO/DI should be adequate, but that chemistry of chloramines is complex and test kits have limitations. Wondering if thinking has changed on that or not?
First, do you think my under-sink filtration system (GE Smartwater) can produce decent enough quality water to mix salt for my FOWLR tanks (with some hardy soft corals and LPS)? Here is a link to the system I have at home:
http://www.geappliances.com/smartwater/model_fs.htm?GXSL55F
Currently, I use this water for top-off. I dechlorinate (we have chloramines) and buffer to 8.3. Right now, I am using pre-mixed saltwater from the LFS for water changes.
Second, how is the SpectraPure Maxcap DI to install? I am interested in knowing what is the easiest RO/DI system to install and use (for those of us with negligible plumbing skills). If the water from my under-sink system is not sufficient for my aquariums, I'd like to put in an RO/DI system, but don't really know where to start.
Also, there was a question about removing chloramines. Since they are present in my water, what is the best way to deal with them if you have an RO/DI system? I did read Randy's article on chlorine and chloramines - basic take home was that a decent RO/DI should be adequate, but that chemistry of chloramines is complex and test kits have limitations. Wondering if thinking has changed on that or not?
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The effluent from such a system, if chloramine were in the water supply, would likely be ammonia. So that is likely what you need to treat for, not chloramine per se. It likely won't do too much if you have especially high copper in your water. I'd at least let it run for a bit before using the water collected from it.
An RO/DI would eliminate the ammonia concern.
An RO/DI would eliminate the ammonia concern.
AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
All RO or RO/DI units install the same way(s). You have several options. I assume your GE drinking water unit is hooked to the cold water supply line under the sink? You can use this same connection point for the RO/DI unit if its a standard 1/4" tube fitting as it appears to be.
Rather than explain it its much easier to understand using Air Water & Ice's installation instructions. Take a look at the Reefkeeper guide if you don't plan on having a pressure tank for drinking water, the Dual Home Reef or the Residential if you plan on using it for drinking water too and finally the Mighty Mite if you do not want to make it a permanent installation. Again any unit can be hooked up any of these ways but these instructions show good pictures which are easy to follow.
http://www.airwaterice.com/category/vv/
Rather than explain it its much easier to understand using Air Water & Ice's installation instructions. Take a look at the Reefkeeper guide if you don't plan on having a pressure tank for drinking water, the Dual Home Reef or the Residential if you plan on using it for drinking water too and finally the Mighty Mite if you do not want to make it a permanent installation. Again any unit can be hooked up any of these ways but these instructions show good pictures which are easy to follow.
http://www.airwaterice.com/category/vv/
Thanks very much to both of you for the responses.
AZDesertRat, correct, the GE unit is hooked to the cold water supply line under the sink. I did not get the GE RO/DI system because the tank would not fit under the sink. So you're saying, hook up the RO/DI unit to this fitting, don't use a tank, get the water out of the GE dispenser mounted on the sink? Would this be switchable between the two systems or are you suggesting I replace the GE unit with an RO/DI?
Randy, I treat with a dechlorinator which claims to remove chlorine, chloramine and ammonia. I have several on hand, but have been using Tetra Aquasafe. Reading up a bit, I see I probably should use something else, like Prime.
AZDesertRat, correct, the GE unit is hooked to the cold water supply line under the sink. I did not get the GE RO/DI system because the tank would not fit under the sink. So you're saying, hook up the RO/DI unit to this fitting, don't use a tank, get the water out of the GE dispenser mounted on the sink? Would this be switchable between the two systems or are you suggesting I replace the GE unit with an RO/DI?
Randy, I treat with a dechlorinator which claims to remove chlorine, chloramine and ammonia. I have several on hand, but have been using Tetra Aquasafe. Reading up a bit, I see I probably should use something else, like Prime.
GoingPostal
Active member
Agu, I'm in Int'l Falls, MN and by tap water I mean I turn on my kitchen faucet and stick a bucket under it. I add some prime, salt, mix for a few hours or days depending on how ambitious I'm feeling. I had a bad hair algea outbreak about a year and a half ago in the 33 gallon posted, back when it was more of a fowlr but I had two other tanks running at the same time with no algea whatsoever. I think it might have been buildup under my cc, I switched it out to sand like my other tanks and the problem went away, this is after I tried lights out, adding a skimmer, lots of water changes, no feeding, etc, etc. I also set up a similar tank (33 gallon, remora skimmer, 260 watt pcs) at my local pet store, they had a quick diatom bloom and some cyano after setup, all of which is gone, this tank is only about 8 months old though.
