Solaris Led lighting systems

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Thanks for your opinion SW. Just gotta ask though, is this an opinion based on experience with solaris? I will be doing a "DIY" version of this, but I need a good foundation to work with. No sense in getting 25 if 15 is more than enough :)
 
I think you are going to have to experiment on your own on that issue. All the Solaris have 25 LEDs per bank. Any given answer would be pure conjecture. So, after you build your light be sure to share your findings by reporting back here. I'm sure many Nano owners would love to know the answer to that question.
 
I do have solaris, and with current coming out with an LED hood in february, IMO I would think they would offer a aqua pod with LED's not far after that.
 
swsaltwater have you look at the LED stop lights and how thay are built.The cost of the lights are $57.00 each and thay are water proof.
 
Have not looked at em, but there are a ton of LED options out there. the biggest issues with the high power LED's is loosing the heat. You have to find an effective way to remove heat from the circuits/leds. Start with a good heat sync (probably can canabalize one of the old huge penitum heat syncs and start from there. Compaqs use to have huge heat syncs for the pentium 2 processors.

Something like this.

http://www.cstore.ucf.edu/Department/Item_Detail.php?item=FAN0003
 
If you will chech the stop lights thay have a design to loose the heat.Think of the heat in a hot part of the US thay work in .
 
SPS Acclimation to LED Light

SPS Acclimation to LED Light

What acclimation procedures should be followed to ensure a successful transition of SPS corals from metal halide lighting to dimmer LED lighting?

In Dana Riddle’s “Too Much Light!” article (http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/july2004/feature.htm), he found that Montipora could be photo inhibited by a mere 260 µmol·m2·sec. In fact, his experiment showed that photosynthetic activity was higher with ambient room lighting than with metal halide lighting.

Given that light-tolerant SPS corals can be acclimated to lower illumination, what is the best way to accomplish that? In other words, how do we get the SPS to shed the protective “sunscreen” that it uses to protect itself from mid-day sun and metal halide lighting?
 
Stop lights

Stop lights

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8657102#post8657102 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by skydancer
RGibson, the stop lights do not use 3W LEDs, or they would not be cost efective with regular bulbs.
Click to expand...
You can see the stop lights 3 blocks away thay sure have something going for them to be that bright.
 
Nice to have this new lighting system as an option. But i doubt is can compare to 400W MH intensity. As this system currently made a comparison to 250W MH and at certain depth. I have a 2.5ft (30inch) depth tank and i placed my monti plate right below. My corals will not hold its colour given the intensity.

I hope Solaris can quickly come out a more intensed LED bulbs so i can consider for a change. MH is too hot and wasted alot of electricity.

Stan
 
Re: Stop lights

Re: Stop lights

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8665739#post8665739 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RGibson
You can see the stop lights 3 blocks away thay sure have something going for them to be that bright.
Click to expand...

With optics or the dome design you can get single digit angles of emmission. Can you imagine how bright the hot spot of an 60watt incandescent bulb would be if you focused the light to a 3° angle?

3 Cree LEDs with an aspherical lense

http://www.molalla.net/~leeper/xrebeam8.jpg
 
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How true. Im finding that the same is true of halides vs T5s. All other things aside, a combo of T5s and a similar K-rated halide have about the same output at the bulb... but the T5s are able to get more of that light into the tank. Halides often are 6-12" above the water, and unless you are directly under the reflector, the output coming out is at an angle, so when it tries to go through that air to water boundary, much of it just ends up getting reflected back up into the canopy. The T5s are closer to the water, and cover more of the water's surface, so they capture more of the light that reflects, but less of the light reflects in the first place because its entering the water at angles very close to perpendicular anyways. Proof? Look at the light reflected upwards in the canopy... many halide lit tanks have canopy insides that are almost as bright as the tank, where T5 lit canopies (retrofit) are dark.
 
Amphibious, the code word was an English expresssion for joking/mocking someone, nothing more.
I wasn't sure why you would think it funny that some DIY'er would naturally step up and try to replicate this, now that true high-power LED's are available for more reasonable rates. After all, thats why Solaris has come out with theirs now right? I mean, if the Luxeon's were still $15-20/LED, I'd expect it would still be in development...

Basically, all Solaris has done is "DIY" their product at the commercial level, as it is a bit more costly than some acrylic and cement for skimmers.
One could say in fact, that Solaris has done little more than mock up an array of Luxeons. The TDP is known and published in the industry, getting the proper heatinsking is trivial. The power supply is also a known, with the power solutions like the Maxim16806 available for $1 per LED or so I would think.
Add some fans, moisture proof as needed, and its a done deal.

Now yeah, there is a little more than this thats required. However not that much, as other industries like automotive, etc.
Heck, Lumileds already has solutions for it all:

lxhl-nw99-l.jpg


Need circuit designs? Go here: http://www.luxeonstar.com/application-notes.php

Need heatsink requirements? Go here: http://www.luxeonstar.com/application-notes.php

The funny thing is, a lot of the DIY folks on RC have some electronics backgrounds, and this probably is 'easy'.

Ramping up to the 3w Luxeons is the same process, with more attention to heat I expect.

If I misread your comments, then my bad. But at least more people know where they can get some Luxeon's to play with , and some realistic costs and qualified designs for free.






<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8623168#post8623168 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Amphibious
Interesting post badpacket. Pat and I are not taking the ****on DIY'ers, what ever that means. I've never been good at decyphering coded words. I doubt that Pat has anything against DIY'ers. After all he sells MH parts, when the time comes he'll probably sell the LED parts for DIY'ers. I certainly have nothing against DIY'ers since I am one. What I get a kick out of on the LED lights going DIY is, they are barely out and some DIY'ers think this is going to be a piece of cake, like skimmers. That was a poor comparison, IMHO.

As far as Pat and I being tight??? I would hardly make that statement in a public forum. Pat and I are aquaintances and I am one of his retailers. I like Pat because he's committed to seeing the issues, that are bound to come up with any new complex invention, are all taken care of at his expense. He's a good business man, very personable and honest to a fault! If that seems to you my being in tight with him, so be it. You are intitled to your opinion.
Click to expand...
 
I guess we'll just wait and see how long it takes for a DIY unit, equivilent to the solaris, to be accomplished. I will not be holding my breath.

You seem to have the answers and the sources. Can we expect a unit from you anytime soon?
 
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