Solaris Led lighting systems

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I can tell you what my energy savings would be if I switched one of my tanks. I dont need to run chillers, etc. I have evaporative cooling in action (fans across the tank's surface), and then my canopies are ducted to the outside in summer. Even with a halide wattage to gallon ratio of 60watts per gallon my temps never get above 82. There is a negligable amount of humidity and heat for the A/C to contend with because everything is vented outside. Due to the effective nature of how I vent my tanks, T5s actually cost me more money to run because they heat up the tank even less... meaning I need more electricity in winter to heat the tank... something that with the halides dont have to do as much in winter because the fans and ducting are all off. The halides actually help warm the common areas of my place, and as a result, the only time the furnace ever comes on in winter is about 3am. So in my case, the extra heat is good.

So all other things negligable, as I have pointed out above, the wattage difference for me would be what? About half? So lets say I switched two 40 Breeders from halide to Solaris LEDs right now. I would save about 1/2 in wattage, right? As is: 250wattsx8 hours per dayx30days per month/1000watts per kwhx$0.10 per kwh= about $6 per tank per month. So two tanks running on LED's would cost me the same...$6 per month.

Sorry, but I just dont see $6 a month savings (assuming Im going from 500watts to 250) as ever adding up enough to justify buying one. Even after 12 months, that barely buys me a replacement halide bulb.

But I have two things going for me as to why. Im in the north, so halides dont cause problems except for 3 months of the year in summer maybe, and with just some creative fans and ducting thats not even a problem. My tanks are also smaller (until I get the 42"x42"x20" set up early next year), so its that much harder to notice... even with a bunch of them. But even with a bunch of them, its still a premium because each individual unit costs more than if I had one that had the output of all of them.

Even on my 150g to be, things still wont add up. At most: Im going to run 500watts of HQI halide, and about 240watts of T5 with that. Even if I cut that in half by using LED's, the end result would only save me $9 a month in electricity.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8419172#post8419172 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cindyolson
And mine went from August $403 to $338 in September.

Was there a large difference in the temp? Just wondering if the chiller was off more because of ambient temp or the lights or a combination of both.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8420684#post8420684 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ti
wow!
This is AWESOME~~!
Solaris > T5!:eek1:

Huh, who said that? Im my figures above, I was being generous to state that my wattage would be 1/2 and I'd still get the same output with LEDs as a nice halide/T5 setup. I wouldnt be running XM 20,000K bulbs and all actinic T5s FWIW. I will be running XDE 10,000Ks and blue+ T5s... both known PAR monsters that would not be able to be replaced by half their wattage in LED's.
 
Don't get one then it doesn't make sense for you to get one. For other people it makes alot of sense. You had $0.10 per KWH I pay $0.26 per KWH. I don't run a chiller and I battle temp issues in the summer. Just cutting my Light wattage in half would only save me $8.00 per month but I know for a fact that my A/C wouldn't have to run as much, I wouldn't have to worry about the heat so much in the summer, and I wouldn't have to replace bulbs every year. That to me is worth it.
 
Amphibious

Do you know the price for the 400 W version?

Also, for everyone complaining about the price :

Consider the cost of high end microprocessor controlled MH lighting. Specifically,

Giesemann Inifniti Moonlight 2x250 4x39w 656 48" $2,399.00

Or Sfiligoi w/ ACLS (~$2800) for a 2x250 w/ T5.

Now, throw in the cost of the chiller (if you're going to go big, you probably need to go all the way).

If my light dependent animals are happy at a 40%++ energy savings (forget kilo watt hours-it's just good for the planet) then Solaris (or one of its hopefully soon to appear competitors)is going to be my next light.

Thank You to the early adopters who are posting here.

-andy
 
$70 a month less in electric bills is something.Hahn I also live in a cold climate but I did notice that even mid sept when the temp started to cool down I still needed my a/c unit to cool the tank.It was 10 degrees at night but because it was worm enough during the day I found the tank temp ran 83 without a/c unit.It is now cold so running a sump in my garage would keep the temp down but humidity was also a big problem in summer months.I don't know if in the summer I could run a solaris without a/c simply because humidity was at 78% in my basement and higher without a/c.With the unit I kept it at about 65% wich is still a bit high.I think I would be better of getting one of those european unit like the one I have upstairs.Another thing I didn't install my upstairs unit till the end of summer so I might of had an easier time keeping the basment a bit cooler.I am using a Maytag portable a/c unit wich was on sale at the end of the summer for $399 CDN funds 10000 BTU.The unit wasn't able to get my room temp lower than 70 - 71 degrees
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8420903#post8420903 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hahnmeister
Huh, who said that? Im my figures above, I was being generous to state that my wattage would be 1/2 and I'd still get the same output with LEDs as a nice halide/T5 setup. I wouldnt be running XM 20,000K bulbs and all actinic T5s FWIW. I will be running XDE 10,000Ks and blue+ T5s... both known PAR monsters that would not be able to be replaced by half their wattage in LED's.
Everyone is different.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8420771#post8420771 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Drewcipher
Was there a large difference in the temp? Just wondering if the chiller was off more because of ambient temp or the lights or a combination of both.

My chiller is set to come on if there is a 2 degree temp change in the tank. I was coming on about every 10-15 min. Now it's about every half hour. Part of my issue is that I don't have room for a tank room so everything has to be under the tank, that does not help with heat. Oh, and did I mention I live in Arizona. It's still in the 80's here so we still run the AC....:(
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8424363#post8424363 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by steve the plumb
$70 a month less in electric bills is something.Hahn I also live in a cold climate but I did notice that even mid sept when the temp started to cool down I still needed my a/c unit to cool the tank.It was 10 degrees at night but because it was worm enough during the day I found the tank temp ran 83 without a/c unit.It is now cold so running a sump in my garage would keep the temp down but humidity was also a big problem in summer months.I don't know if in the summer I could run a solaris without a/c simply because humidity was at 78% in my basement and higher without a/c.With the unit I kept it at about 65% wich is still a bit high.I think I would be better of getting one of those european unit like the one I have upstairs.Another thing I didn't install my upstairs unit till the end of summer so I might of had an easier time keeping the basment a bit cooler.I am using a Maytag portable a/c unit wich was on sale at the end of the summer for $399 CDN funds 10000 BTU.The unit wasn't able to get my room temp lower than 70 - 71 degrees

Sounds like some clever ducting and ventilation of all that hot and humid air would save you more money since you are attributing most of the $70 a month savings to the stress on the A/C in summer. If you run a closed canopy, or even just vent the fixtures with some 4" duct and a power fan, that takes away alot of that $70 a month. I have a good buddy whose A/C was costing him the majority of his $600 a month electric bill... because he has two large tanks and vats in the basement. By sealing off the vats in the basement, and power venting his canopy on the show-tank upstairs, his electric bill was cut by $300 right there. All that hot and humid air otherwise was spilling into his house and killing the A/C.
 
Don't know if there is any truth to this but the owner of my local LFS recently came back from a trade show in Chicago and he says that PFO is coming out with a unit that does not have the microprocessor control that is going to be thousands less. He didn't say when.
 
MyLilSolaris

MyLilSolaris

Clams in / open / looking good....ok so it's only been in the tank for 3 hours but I'm thinking It's going to be fine.Added a brain and assorted polypcolony??? Who knows so we'll see. I'll post some pic my Nikon 8mp just arrived. I'll take some pics with different color temps. Everyones pics seem real blue but my tank doesn't look that way. If I lower blues and keep white up high the tank looks more MH12000k. Although not as bright. PFO tells me bright is really astetics the corals crave the bluer side of the spectrum. Makes sense the ocean refracts the blue from the sky through the water.Sorry I'm not an armchair biologist I'll wait for a correction and not take it personally. SOLARIS BABY!!So far sooo good week 4!!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8055675#post8055675 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cindyolson
I love new technology too. I don't normally buy first gen, but bit the bullet on this one. My tank is 30 so I'm sure I'm pushing it. The way I look at it Mushrooms will love the bottom...


Mine are running great at 32. I have clams, lps all on the bottom.

Rob
 
I plan to get another tank.I am going to try to vent as much of the hot air outside.I also have limited space for everything.My tank was open top with a 30 gal sump.I had nowhere to vent it so I had no choice.I am planning to place it against garag wall and drill a hole to vent the air outside.I would have to hace a canopy then in order to hide a 4 inch hole.if I vent from garag I don't have to make a hole but still basement will be hot.Thast the thing with these lights no heat and all this trying to vent drill holes worrying about tank temp.There is a lot less things to worry about.I might get and 8 ft tank it would cost to much to light it with solaris.I may just go with 3x 150 watt hqi pendants and leave a few dark spots
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8433016#post8433016 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by swb
Will these work in 30" deep tanks?

Officially per the site no. 24" is max

Based on what I see in my tank yes. Check out pics in my gallery. Clams, LPS all fine at 30".
 
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